Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

This thread is open also to non R34 owners, just let me know what car you drive so I can get an idea.

I am looking at buying an Apexi Panel Filter.

1) will it make any difference in the 34?

2) do you recommend getting another panel filter e.g. K&N?

From what I have read on these forums, I do not want to get a pod because of legality/maintenence/problems and figured the best way to go is a panel filter.

Cheers

Edited by nuffsaid

I have a pipercross filter

http://shop.fabre.com.au/store/products/item113.inetstore

SK reccomended it to me and i am pretty happy with it. Definatly flows a lot better, better induction noise, and all with the legal std airbox :P

Unless your in Vic and can only have one intake mod I would go with a decent pod in a heatshield...

i'm running a Unique auto sports shield with a power enterprise pod and it seems to be alot less restrictive. I do however, drive an R33.

theres a pic from the uas site:

gtstairbox1.jpg

Edited by MintR33

Hmmm... might be looking at a new filter with a bit higher flowing.. any ideas where to get apexi or nismo ones in sydney.. or is ebay the way to go..

one question with the UAS one above - where does the airflow come from.. atleast with the stock one it gets fed quite well from under the lip of the bonnet..

Edited by Links
Hmmm... might be looking at a new filter with a bit higher flowing.. any ideas where to get apexi or nismo ones in sydney.. or is ebay the way to go..

one question with the UAS one above - where does the airflow come from.. atleast with the stock one it gets fed quite well from under the lip of the bonnet..

The pod sits over the old intercooler piping hole, if you leave it like that it sucks air through there but im getting a stainless pipe made up to feed it (ram pod type theory) the holes for a flange connection are there from the stock piping so its easy to get done.

The pod sits over the old intercooler piping hole, if you leave it like that it sucks air through there but im getting a stainless pipe made up to feed it (ram pod type theory) the holes for a flange connection are there from the stock piping so its easy to get done.

not if you have stock intercooler :D

No offense to apexi lovers but their panel filters are horrible. They are just paper nissan panel filters with Apexi sprayed on them. K&N items are miles better.

Nismo is the same - a lot of money for a paper filter.

Just get a K&N. Sit them side by side next to each other and you will see what i mean.

No offense to apexi lovers but their panel filters are horrible. They are just paper nissan panel filters with Apexi sprayed on them. K&N items are miles better.

Nismo is the same - a lot of money for a paper filter.

Just get a K&N. Sit them side by side next to each other and you will see what i mean.

I don't know about the apexi ones but I have both a standard nissan one and a Nismo one and they are not the same in flow or look. The difference in both regards is immediately noticeable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...