Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id say its a good thing to do while the heads off.

Remember boost is a measurement of restriction of airflow. Anything that helps the motor breathe better is good imho.

You will get better power out of it for the same boost that you had before....

On a side note, the guys who did mine and Cubes did it for roughly $200 ish...anymore spent wasnt worth the $ to power gain....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1698640
Share on other sites

As you guys were saying, porting isn't really necessary or needed at mild modding.

But, wouldn't polishing the combustion chamber be a nice measure to help control Knock if and when he plans on upping the boost?

I bet that would be rather inexpensive to just polish without porting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1699787
Share on other sites

I agree with RB240av and clayoth

better flow = more power, more efficiently (free kilowatts so to speak)

the amount of power an engine can develop is dependent on the mass of air it can breathe per unit of time – a simple mathematical fact of life for an engine builder.

I have seen (or read about) up to 30% gains when porting the RB25 head, and I'd think it would be worth while no matter what the boost level (IMHO)

Modern heads may be good - but they are still mass manufactured and include castings and dags.

At a minimum you should look at port matching, a polish up of the combustion chambers (for a cleaner burn) and a polish up of the inlet and exhaust valve bowls. Keep in mind you may also need to replace valve seats and seam seals at the same time (if you are not doing so already)

get it tidied up - you know you should ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1703742
Share on other sites

yeah I don't see the point at mr crusts level of modification... unless bigger turbo and fuel system are waiting in the wings... even then I would be looking at cams instead... however it all changes if the head is stuffed and needs a recondition or you plan on running sky high revlimits

in a GTR its a different story

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1703835
Share on other sites

Its not really free kilowatts at all. Same could be said by adding 1-2psi in, doesnt "cost" you anything.

With a better flowing head, itll make same power @ less boost, potentially...

But if you want to make more power you need to screw more in anyway.

On a stock turbo your limited to the boost you can run, so there is no benefit either way that can be justified. Even a mild 2530 upgrade or something to 220-240rwkw

I mean i ran a 100% stock head, flowed fine for the 270rwkw on 17psi outta the gt30, 330rwkw on some 104/24psi

I was on a budget then, and i couldnt justify the cost at all.

I didnt do cams for that reason either.

It was $1000+ that could be better much spent on a PowerFC/AFM/Fuel system IMO, and it was ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1703864
Share on other sites

It was $1000+ that could be better much spent on a PowerFC/AFM/Fuel system  IMO, and it was ;)

totally... I spent a grand on cams and there is no contest between the effect of that mod vs when the cooler went in... the cooler won hands down! but I kinda knew that would be the case;)

so yeah, save your money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1703900
Share on other sites

My head has been ported and has a set of Tomei cams. Was advised NOT to polish the head, something to do with the fuel spray, this came from the porter.

Unlike those that have not experienced the benefits of porting and cams, but still like to talk it down, i can not speak highly enough of the benefits i have felt and gained.

BUT: As stated b4, this should be done after a turbo upgrade. Wether you decide on just a "hi-flow rb25/vg30 turbo" or go crazy with a "T78", gains can be had with porting and cams.

My "hi-flow rb25/vg30 turbo", with porting and cams is making 270rwkw@15psi, compared to Ash's GT30 making 270rwkw@17psi. I have also the added bonus of looking standard, as the turbo has the factory comp cover/housing and factory shields.

Once again: these should be one of your last power mods, but i beleive that they shouldn't be overlooked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1704230
Share on other sites

Unlike those that have not experienced the benefits of porting and cams, but still like to talk it down, i can not speak highly enough of the benefits i have felt and gained.

My "hi-flow rb25/vg30 turbo", with porting and cams is making 270rwkw@15psi, compared to Ash's GT30 making 270rwkw@17psi. I have also the added bonus of looking standard, as the turbo has the factory comp cover/housing and factory shields.

But you did all the mods at once, but hard to judge how good one thing is when you do a complete package of mods.

We made the same power (although would loved to have tested that same dyno to compare much more accurately) but i saved what... $1500? :D

More beer money for meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1704562
Share on other sites

But you did all the mods at once, but hard to judge how good one thing is when you do a complete package of mods.

We made the same power (although would loved to have tested that same dyno to compare much more accurately) but i saved what... $1500?  :)

More beer money for meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :lol:

I too would have liked to see a same dyno, same day, comparison, As i believe that dyno charts aren't really worth much. Mind you my car is only fully tunned to run 255rwkw, as i never intended to run over this power, with a std bottom end. :D

Note: Little off track :blink:

Did you save that $1500?

What about the new ic piping, oil and water lines, most people require a new exhaust manifold (You were lucky and has the GTS-R manifold), maybe an ext. wastegate, etc. When you add all these up, just to acheive a similar figure, how much are you really saving, you'll probably find you are actually spending more :)

Lets not forget all the hidden costs:

- More boost=less reliablity

- EPA: You mods stuck out and were obvious, the officer will really have to know his stuff to pick up on my mods. B)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1705588
Share on other sites

now now - lets settle it down girls

let's agree that port and polishing is a good thing - but only when it's justified, and I mean in terms of cost and desired performance

Let's also agree that to REALLY see the benefits - you need the other supporting mods, EG exhaust, dumps, AFMs CAMS and the list goes on

My opinion is that once these other mods ARE done - that you will see better results if the proper prep work has also been done

I also ggree - $1500 is a lot of beer (or scotch in my case :))

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94018-port-and-polish/#findComment-1705636
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...