Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a 1995 R33 Series 1 GTS-T currently putting out 168rwkw @ stock boost and 192rwkw @ 12psi.

I had been suffering from -heavy- axle tramp when trying to accellerate hard from lights in 1st and 2nd gear.

After doing a search thru the SAU forums i came across "Pineapples" (thread here).

I read over some of the threads regarding this part and decided that for only $120 delivered i would certainly give this a go. Soon as my funds were cleared Dr_Drift posted the pineapples (My mum thought i had suddenly discovered a craving for expensive pineapples from Melbourne LOL).

They came packaged with instructions but it took me awhile just to workout where they go let alone how to put them in so i decided to visit my local Midas and get em to do the installation for $70/hr (took 35mins).

Soon as they were installed i slaughtered my car out of Midas and could notice the difference in the rear end of my car almost immediately. The first time i drove my car hard off the lights (revs were at 1,000rpm) it did axle tramp abit but nowhere near as much as normal.

Even driving in 2/3/4 gears when putting the hammer down you can certainly feel the pineapples kicking into effect from the rear suspension and it actually gives out a nice sounding noise too when wind it up.

Their is a corner in the housing estatethat i live in that i would have to back off when going through the apex as the backend would start to squeel and get very unsettled. Now with the pineapples the backend just squats and takes the corner so much better almost like i can trust that the rear-end is going to just stick to the road (i have stock wheels/tyres which arent helping at those speeds).

I did notice a slight vibration when travelling on the freeway @ 110km/h @ a constant speed both thru my dash and in the rear, this disappear when slowing down or speeding up but was noticable (and alittle irritating) when at a steady constant speed.

Over the weekend (cruise to the gong and back damn i did 380km on Sunday) i deffinetly noticed the difference with an extra person in the car. Sometimes i was able to just flatten it off the lights and the damn thing would just accellerate like the bitch that it is which i was quite impressed with.

I would say that if you have $120-190 odd sitting around and you dont want to replace your stock suspension with something newer or arent in the market for a PowerFC etc etc but just want to get some bang for your buck (like replacing your oil or filters etc) then for only $120 you can't go wrong with getting these pineapples.

My next stop is over to whiteline to get the rest of my suspension checked out to remove the slight knocking noises in the rear (told i get this because of the aftermarket nismo adjustable shish-ka-bang suspension) and that i just need to get some different bushes setup etc.

If you want to order these pineapples click on the thread linked above and place your order as they are certainly worth it.

Overall i rate them an 8/10 :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9444-pineapples-beforeafter-review/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That vibration you feel is due to the front part of the kit.

As opposed to following the torque reccomendations (I tried it before and got nasty vibrations and bouncing off the bump stops) I tightened the the bushes within an inch of their lives. No more vibration.

My car never use to axle tramp, but now with pineapples it axle tramps very badly. I dont mind because i have only ever given a boot off the lights about 3 times. I suspect the axle tramp has as much to do with tyres as anything. I recall HSV using different tyres on the VP Clubsport for the same reason.

Can recommend the Whiteline kit, my car has the whole shibang (Look at the picture on the website R32...thats my car:D ), and its about as far as you would want to go on the street while still handling a lot better. Try 3 seconds around Wakefield (Some of which may have been driver improvement)

Still 1:15 isnt exactly blindinlgy fast, but considering my only mods were Whitleine kit, cat back exhaust, 17" rims with 451 Falkens and filter it isnt bad. (Good tyres could drop the times further)

Gester,

Yes axle tramp is a bad thing, means that your not getting all your power to the road cause the rear axle is bouncing. The rubber bushes which are factory are designed for comfort, not hard launches. Replacing them with the pineapples reduces the tramp.

I'll let someone describe the process better, but axle tramp will slow your 1/4 mile times down.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by Jimbo2000

if your car is equipped with Nolothane radius rod bushes will that decrease the axle tramp or should pinapples also go on?

Adj radius rod bushes go on the front end and primarily improve steering feedback and allows for more castor to be run. A good addition but doesn't affect axle tramp at all.

If anyone wants some I got a couple of spare sets from being stiffed by a couple of people who said they wanted some and never came round with the cash.....

E-Mail me if your interested....

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...