Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am keen to get the R33 into the 12's now, so I thought I'd detail my plan of attack. Just so people can track my success and failure as I mod down the path.

The objective is to get into the 12's with the stock turbo and intercooler without huge boost (hopefully 10psi or a snick over) and retaining stock or better fuel ecconomy and without sacrificing road manners. The factory ecu will be retained with just the S-afc.

Plan A.

* tune the Apexi S-afc II for additional horsepower and broaden the power band.

Plan B.

* add a HKS adjustable cam gear to the exhaust side at 4degrees retard. And retune the S-afc again. Set to bring boost on quicker not peak power.

Plan C.

* Change factory pulleys over to lightweight and slightly underdriven alloy ones. Just like the light flywheel, rev..rev..rev..

Plan D.

* Remove the fluid clutch style engine fan and replace with thermo fan.Removes drag and weight from the pulley, as above.

Plan E.

* Buy wider tyres for the rear. Aw do I have too?

Plan F.

* Use toluene. I use this when I get bored anyway, but I'll tune an S-afc map for it.

Each plan I will try to impliment with sepparate drives down the 1/4, to demonstrate the relative effects. However I will only proceed to the next mod if I don't reach 12.99, then again I probably can't help myself:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9445-project-12sec-r33-gtst-daily-driver/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good plan, it will be a close call but you might be able to do it, will be interesting to see which of these has a noticable effect.

I'll come and watch you run at the plex, try and learn some driving tips.

See'ya:burnout:

  • Like 1

benm,

Maybe I'll do some dyno runs, if I really need to. Like the S-afc/cam gear. Otherwise its just a waste of money.

Gtst-vspec,

All the mods on that list I know work, exept for the cam gear, because I have used them on other vehicles. Most don't yeild very much power but improve response and together they should add up to quite a punch in accelleration. How much will I need to get into 12's will be the interesting part.

rob77,

The e-manage is much better but I was not prepared to go through the whole 'tuning' thing since I am probably selling the car shortly. Also the knock sensor and 15sec log sold me along with the price. I'd say the emanage will make more power for sure.

akeenan,

tax deductions...it's used for work.

I have had the car for almost 3 years now so I need to get a new one so I can claim more depreciation. I've been 6 months in decision land trying to think of the car to get as a replacement.

In the mean time while I can't make up my mind I do little things to make it quicker and more efficient.

benm,

The mods do these things:

S-afc tune -- increase horsepower (through a leaner A/F ratio)

HKS adjustable cam pulley --- increase torque and power by changing the camshaft timing.

Light Aftermarket pulleys --- by reducing the weight you decrease the time taken for the engine to achieve any rev, also by running 15% underdriven pulley ratio from stock you decrease the drag created which restores some HP lost to that drag.

Changing to a thermo fan --- as above for the drag aspect.

Wider tyres --- more grip, less wheelspin--- better time.

Toluene --- a fuel additive that increases the octane in your fuel/ increases the pinging threshold so can run more timing it also adds power by virtue of its higher engery content. More HP!

Interesting thanks for that. Im still learning about PowerFC's, PineApples, AirBoxes and all those little parts first.

I guess their is a sh1tload of mods that can be done -before- needing to upgrade the turbo to get small benefits, sweet.

Originally posted by rev210

Jay95R33,

Man can you change the kermit avitar, it's a little disturbing....

LOL - I think it's time for a change anyway :D

I'll see what I can come up with :P

BTW: I'm doing a thermo fan install on mine this weekend (if I can get off my butt), it's half in ATM (thermostat and wiring), just have to put the fan on.

I'll let you know how it goes and if it makes a difference.

J

I grabbed a second hand 16 inch Davies Craig fan for $150, and bought the thermostat switch and relay stuff from Supa Cheap for $70.

The 16 incher flows up to 2200cfm !!!!!

Masive difference from the 12 inch which can do about 950cfm, and the 10 does something like 700cfm.

My clutch fan is getting squeeky, plus when you look at it when at idle it has a wooble to it..... The wobble can't be a good thing for balance and drag, so I thought I get rid of it before it stuffs the water pump or something..

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...