Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am keen to get the R33 into the 12's now, so I thought I'd detail my plan of attack. Just so people can track my success and failure as I mod down the path.

The objective is to get into the 12's with the stock turbo and intercooler without huge boost (hopefully 10psi or a snick over) and retaining stock or better fuel ecconomy and without sacrificing road manners. The factory ecu will be retained with just the S-afc.

Plan A.

* tune the Apexi S-afc II for additional horsepower and broaden the power band.

Plan B.

* add a HKS adjustable cam gear to the exhaust side at 4degrees retard. And retune the S-afc again. Set to bring boost on quicker not peak power.

Plan C.

* Change factory pulleys over to lightweight and slightly underdriven alloy ones. Just like the light flywheel, rev..rev..rev..

Plan D.

* Remove the fluid clutch style engine fan and replace with thermo fan.Removes drag and weight from the pulley, as above.

Plan E.

* Buy wider tyres for the rear. Aw do I have too?

Plan F.

* Use toluene. I use this when I get bored anyway, but I'll tune an S-afc map for it.

Each plan I will try to impliment with sepparate drives down the 1/4, to demonstrate the relative effects. However I will only proceed to the next mod if I don't reach 12.99, then again I probably can't help myself:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9445-project-12sec-r33-gtst-daily-driver/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good plan, it will be a close call but you might be able to do it, will be interesting to see which of these has a noticable effect.

I'll come and watch you run at the plex, try and learn some driving tips.

See'ya:burnout:

  • Like 1

benm,

Maybe I'll do some dyno runs, if I really need to. Like the S-afc/cam gear. Otherwise its just a waste of money.

Gtst-vspec,

All the mods on that list I know work, exept for the cam gear, because I have used them on other vehicles. Most don't yeild very much power but improve response and together they should add up to quite a punch in accelleration. How much will I need to get into 12's will be the interesting part.

rob77,

The e-manage is much better but I was not prepared to go through the whole 'tuning' thing since I am probably selling the car shortly. Also the knock sensor and 15sec log sold me along with the price. I'd say the emanage will make more power for sure.

akeenan,

tax deductions...it's used for work.

I have had the car for almost 3 years now so I need to get a new one so I can claim more depreciation. I've been 6 months in decision land trying to think of the car to get as a replacement.

In the mean time while I can't make up my mind I do little things to make it quicker and more efficient.

benm,

The mods do these things:

S-afc tune -- increase horsepower (through a leaner A/F ratio)

HKS adjustable cam pulley --- increase torque and power by changing the camshaft timing.

Light Aftermarket pulleys --- by reducing the weight you decrease the time taken for the engine to achieve any rev, also by running 15% underdriven pulley ratio from stock you decrease the drag created which restores some HP lost to that drag.

Changing to a thermo fan --- as above for the drag aspect.

Wider tyres --- more grip, less wheelspin--- better time.

Toluene --- a fuel additive that increases the octane in your fuel/ increases the pinging threshold so can run more timing it also adds power by virtue of its higher engery content. More HP!

Interesting thanks for that. Im still learning about PowerFC's, PineApples, AirBoxes and all those little parts first.

I guess their is a sh1tload of mods that can be done -before- needing to upgrade the turbo to get small benefits, sweet.

Originally posted by rev210

Jay95R33,

Man can you change the kermit avitar, it's a little disturbing....

LOL - I think it's time for a change anyway :D

I'll see what I can come up with :P

BTW: I'm doing a thermo fan install on mine this weekend (if I can get off my butt), it's half in ATM (thermostat and wiring), just have to put the fan on.

I'll let you know how it goes and if it makes a difference.

J

I grabbed a second hand 16 inch Davies Craig fan for $150, and bought the thermostat switch and relay stuff from Supa Cheap for $70.

The 16 incher flows up to 2200cfm !!!!!

Masive difference from the 12 inch which can do about 950cfm, and the 10 does something like 700cfm.

My clutch fan is getting squeeky, plus when you look at it when at idle it has a wooble to it..... The wobble can't be a good thing for balance and drag, so I thought I get rid of it before it stuffs the water pump or something..

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
×
×
  • Create New...