Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This Autospeed article that says that tyre width is not main determining factor in tyre grip. It said car weight and tyre pressure determine contact patch on the road. eg. a 205 has the same area on the ground as a 235, but it is longer and narrower, for the same weight, same pressure. Food for thought.

b2barker,

The article raises some important questions about tyre selections etc, but as we all tend to run lower pressures at the drags then the area of contact with the surface will be larger for the wider tyre.

Yes it is the frictional coefficient which determines the grip, but the amount of power that can be applied is related to this and the surface area, therefore more area and a good tyre are better.

I think tread pattern and block size have roles to play in tyre choice, it is a complicated area to actually analyse, with tyre companies spending many millions of dollars in research, but I think that lower pressures, good gripping rubber and increased tyre width will be the way to go for the drags.

See'ya:burnout:

Wider is better if you talk the same brand (compound) and same inflation. So its kind of old news put a different way.

people ought not to go out and buy 205 simex tyres in the belief that their old 265's have less traction.

Most of the portable tyre inflators suck. They take a million years to inflate a tyre, thats fine if you have the luxury of time but, when the staff at the plex are kicking you out it isn't helpfull. I just drove home on 20psi. If you do get one get the mother of all 4wd tyre inflators so it takes less time.

My friend a frount mount will only hold me back, it will dull the response of the stock turbo in the mid range. It is not something I'd even consider doing till I had a replacement turbo fitted and a few other things. As such it does not even appear on my list.

SHUTO-BOY,

rev's right about the tyre inflators, I have two in my boot, the cheap one from Auto 1 is totally crap, have a spare 30mins to do one tyre, the other one is a bit better. The 4WD ones are more expensive, but at least they do a decent job.

I don't agree with the FMIC thing, but he is still quicker than me, and he is using the stocker and I have a FMIC, so go figure.

See'ya:burnout:

12s with stock turbo and stock intercooler is extremely unchartered territory.

I guess most people accept what others say about the limits of the standard components, and jump straight into upgrading the two aforementioned parts when aiming for decent times...

Good to see more people challenging the "accepted limits"...

Good luck mate!

The guys at HPI pushed the limits of there Sin City Soarer with the factory turbo's, I don't think anyone would have expected 250rwKW from the thing.

It's good to know the fundamental limit of things, plus if you can do 12s on a budget then alot more people would start modding there cars.

See'ya:burnout:

Merli,

Cheers mate. I hope to get there on the 205's too which will make the claim (if I ever get there) more reliable for others to follow should they have the same thing in mind (ie: they can expect a time similar or better if they run wider tyres than me).

GTS-t Vspec,

I am faster dispite you having the full engine management, EBC, Trust plenum, fuel regulator and all that other stuff I would love to steal off your car. Oh well I won't be faster for long if you get the GT30 turbo on there.

Magazines are inherent liars. It comes with the territory, and all articles should be taken with a grain of salt.

I'm sure I could get Jim or Con to play with the ramp rates and environment factors and eclipse 325rwkw from my car's current boost level (1.1bar), but we all know it's a bullsh1t figure :)

They do some good work at HPI and Zoom, and I had a great time with Ben Ellis in Japan (he's a VERY funny drunk), but I'm not convinced all their dyno figures are kosher.

rev,

I don't think that the plenum and fuel reg. are playing much of a part in my times, but it is all setup in anticipation of the bigger turbo. I'm sure I could knock some more time off my PB but it isn't worth it at the moment.

Merli,

I always read articles with an eye of scepticism, and your right, dyno figures mean squat, but pushing the limits of the turbos and the boost which it supports are all very interesting.

See'ya:burnout:

I take your point's :

Magazines tend to fabricate things a little , HPI's R34GTT does 200rwkw with factory turbo? I don't think so.

On the other hand there is alot to said for trying to squeeze out the last bit of performance from stock parts. At least doing this often costs nothing to very little.

Originally posted by Merli

They do some good work at HPI and Zoom, and I had a great time with Ben Ellis in Japan (he's a VERY funny drunk), but I'm not convinced all their dyno figures are kosher.

Interesting concept. To back the claims my Soarer, stock turbos, no cams etc. also posted 248rwkw @ Adelaide Auto Salon, in front of around 150 people, on a different dyno, no shootout mode, no corrections, no airtemp in the airbox, at a cell temp of 28 degrees.

It also posted 281rwkw right on the absolute limit of (and probably beyond) the stock turbos output at an LS1/Skyline dyno day in front of thirty something people, no factors, no shootout mode. Whatisname figured my turbos were modified and reckoned the figures were wrong. Once I removed them I made the effort to ring him and get him around for a look. After inspecting them he concluded they were stock....as they were.

As for the black Skyline? I do believe Bens R34GTt made 200rwkw on Croydon Autosports Dyno, after being tuned by Jimmy Souvas. I am quite sure that Jim was not being a liar, regardless of what Merli thinks, nor does he work for a magazine. Hes just a good tuner, working on a car equipped with good product.

My advice for the non-believers is, and always will be, spend the energy put into snied name calling and innuendo into setup and tuning then watch the numbers come.

Sorry I shouldn't have used the word 'fabricate' in that sentence, I don't doubt that the dyno did read 200rwkw, you could see that on the video. I am sure the 'real' flywheel kw would tell a different story however. There is simply not enough 'flow' in the standard turbo for an accurate figure of over 200rwkw, on pump gas at 1 bar. The tune however looked sucessfull because there was at least before and after sessions. I agree about the soarer, there is plenty of evidence to suggest that the standard turbos are worth a bit of a go.

Originally posted by rev210

There is simply not enough 'flow' in the standard turbo for an accurate figure of over 200rwkw, on pump gas at 1 bar.

I dont have a compressor map for an R34 GTt turbocharger so I cant argue with that. To make that assumption you need to do the sums on the factory turbo. Remember its different to the R33 GTS-T unit

Good point.

The Neo engine's are rated at 208kw flywheel from factory as opposed to the 187kw of the R33. Possibly there is a slight flow improement at the compressor, assuming other factors are not responsible.

I think since I am not privy to the compressor map either, I will reisign my position.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...