Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it is a hybrid style Cooler

Than on the top of the rio there are 2 holes that the cooler lines up with perfectly for the bolts to screw through it into the cooler.

You should have 2 metal straight brakets aswell that go on the bottom from the 2 holes to the splash guard holes.

Just undo the screws then rescrew them back in with the braket in between.

I made up 2 small brakets for the top so the cooler sits back more.

You will have to cut the rio to fit the cooler much like in the pictures completely removing the lower portion of the bar.

cooler19qh.jpg

cooler27im.jpg

cooler34uh.jpg

cooler47hh.jpg

Edited by Slide
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1726733
Share on other sites

I did mine last weekend, I dont have any links or photos, but I can run you through step by step. First remove the stock intercooler front bar etc. The stock cooler is located underneath the airbox. depending on what New cooler kit you got depends on how much of the origanal piping you will need to use with your install. now you have the origanal cooler out get the new piping and lay it out in front of the car and try and work out which pipe goes where (if you would like I can take pics of mine and send them to you to make it easyer) as a verbal aid (take into account that your kit maybe different from mine) from the turbo a pipe goes down through one of the holes where the origanal cooler piping was and onto one end of your new cooler. On the other end of your cooler you should have a pipe that does a 'u' bend then there will be a pipe that does a 's' bend then the last pipe should be in the form of an 'L', this pipe above the main fan and connects to the intake of the engine. Make sure yuo wash the pipes out before installing them and constantly check for filings.

As for physicaly mounting the cooler, I used a die grinder and an angle grinder to cut holes and a hack saw to cut up some brackets if you dont have them with the kit already. Take the front bar off and I also took the headlights out as well. you will have to grind away parts of the reo bar (the metal bumper behind the front bar), you will also have to relocate the horn and trim the a/c fan which is mounted on the front of the radiator. I used some bits of angle steel on the top and some flat steel on the bottom to mount the cooler (for pics of exactly how I did it let me know and I will take some). below the washer bottle you need to cut a hole about 1/2 to a full inch bigger then the pipe that needs to go through. See how you go with that any troubles just pm and I will helpyou best I can

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1726772
Share on other sites

quick question (sorry if im a pain in the ass) but where u run the cooler pipes under the washer bottle, where do i cut the body of the car, have u got any pics at all? and do you have to relocate the washer bottle?

Edited by mr_crust
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1731440
Share on other sites

quick question (sorry if im a pain in the ass) but where u run the cooler pipes under the washer bottle, where do i cut the body of the car, have u got any pics at all? and do you have to relocate the washer bottle?

No need to relocate the washer bottle!

Dummy fit the crossover pipe that runs down to, and through the guard under the washer bottle to get an idea of where to position the hole.

Under the washer bottle there is a very thin section of guard that you cut through using a 3 inch hole saw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1731446
Share on other sites

Just to help you a bit more I used a 75mm Hole saw, I dummy fitted the relevant pipe and cut a hole from outside of the engine bay (I removed the drivers side wheel for this) as its a bit hard to get a drill down there in front of the fan. Then I applied some primer to the bare metal and layed a piece of rubber tube around the hole with a slot cut on one side to protect the piping and to stop any rattles.

Hope that is informative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1731798
Share on other sites

I installed a hybrid (seems this is what you have) myself with minimal trouble, did take a while though. If you need to cut the fan blades CUT AT AN ANGLE!!!!!, then you don't have to cut "that much" off. Some people hate the fact you need to cut these, but it's just part of working with a budget. Here is a couple of pics, and it will give you an idea of what I mean. Added one of the clamps too.

post-17137-1132574016.jpg

post-17137-1132574073.jpg

post-17137-1132574134.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1733286
Share on other sites

if u cut the fan blades, will that cause it to be unbalanced?

btw thanks for all this pics, they make it so much easier...i really want to c a pic where u cut the whole and run the pipes near the washer bottle if anyone has that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1733714
Share on other sites

The hybrid pdf file shows where to cut the hole in the chassis underneath water bottle.

And aslong as you take a similar or as close to amount off each fan blade it wont be noticably unbalanced.

Every single person with a hybrid style kit has cut fanblades and i have never heard of somebody doing that bad of a job that it has snapped something like the water pump output shaft or anything because of it being unbalanced.

fan2aw.jpg

pipe4nb.jpg

Sorry about quality of pics

Only have a camera phone at this house

Edited by Slide
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1735098
Share on other sites

i'll take a photo now for ya dude

EDIT: Here u go. Mine's a D1 Kit, but my understanding is that these are the same set up as the Hybrid Kits.

dscf02047ci.th.jpg

Close Up of Hole (Note Washer Bottle Was Modified Near Screw)

Note: I Used a 75mm Hole Saw, Seems to be a nice Fit, not too Sloppy. Then coated the metal with a matching primer and covered the hole with a rubber tube with a slit cut along one side.

dscf02037ff.th.jpg

Hole Showing Radiator Hose And Washer Bottle

dscf02052kx.th.jpg

Engine Bay Also Showing Modified Fan Blades

Note: Fan Blades Were cut with a pair of side cutters, some pruning cutters for plants will probably do a similar job.

God that took a while on Dial Up... Hope that helps

Edited by MintR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1735550
Share on other sites

btw thanks for all this pics, they make it so much easier...i really want to c a pic where u cut the whole and run the pipes near the washer bottle if anyone has that.

Ummm, see previous post of pdf file. It shows exactly where to cut the hole.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1735567
Share on other sites

thanks again guys, i am very appreciative of every's advice and photos, to help make my installation easier.

Once i do my kit (i ordered it today) i will install it and make a step by step guide for future reference.

thanks again to everyone who helped me out

btw damo, the link to the pdf file doesnt work

Edited by mr_crust
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1735974
Share on other sites

Unsure if it can be done on an R33.

My route:

Out of the turbo follow the stock ic piping in to the front bumper, 90degree bend towards the front of the car a couple of little bends equalling another 90degree bend, this heads across the front of the car slightly behind and down from the IC Core, but still level with the bottom of the bumper. It then throws a 180degree bend in to the intercooler. The cooled air then has a very short trip leaving the FMIC on the passengers side to the cross over pipe via the stock piping route.

If I were to use a 'kit' as many have here, I would most definitely look at modifying the piping kit so the air travels in the opposite direction to its current design. That being, out of the turbo across the radiator in to the front bumper then in to the right hand side of the FMIC. Cooled air leaves FMIC from the passengers side up via the stock piping route, past the airbox in to the cross over pipe.

Hot air travels faster as a result less lag through the longer piping compared to a cooler charge; Well, I would assume so without knowing much about flow dynamics. The difference is probably nothing, maybe its not.

PVC piping is nice to use when setting up pipe work, makes it easy to take it to an exhaust shop and having them welding up the ic piping.

Just don't drive around on it like some one here on SAU did... lmao.. :D

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1736042
Share on other sites

Well my cooler n pipes were delievered this afternoon. I was actually shocked how fast it arrived. I got it from JustSR, and i would recommend them highly.Here are a few pics of the cooler n pipes.

Anyone know how to get words sprayed onto the cooler? I wanna get my plates sprayed onto it...Is it just done with a stencil n normal spray paint??

01638cbf.jpg

45b461d4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95278-install-a-cooler/#findComment-1744380
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...