Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTR rims are 18x8 +30 offset from memory. They should sit nicely in a GTT. I've seen a few GTTs running around with GTR wheels. If you are looking at fitting 18s on the GTT, anything at the front with offsets +40, +35 should fit assuming they are 18x8s. You will also need to check on front brake caliper clearance. I have tried two sets of +

35 offset on my fronts before one did not clear because it did not have high disk clearance. Jap wheels can be very tricky in this respect. Best advice is try before you buy...which can be hard when you are importing or buying second hand. I've learnt this the hard way :)

34 GTR wheels are 18X9 not 18X8. you may have some trouble with the fronts, but i'm not entirely sure. best way to find out is to see if you can try a pair on. With some low profile 235s on the front they will probably be ok.

34 GTR wheels are 18X9 not 18X8. you may have some trouble with the fronts, but i'm not entirely sure. best way to find out is to see if you can try a pair on. With some low profile 235s on the front they will probably be ok.

This is such a great forum and many experts opinion. Question is how is the alignment setting and whether the handling is effected compare with the stock standard rims or other after market rims? The design looks great and had offers for a set atm. One last question, if I change the GTT fenders to the GTR ones while still retaining the stock GTT bumpers & bonnet, will there be gaps during fittings? The GTR fender do balance the car up with the GTR rims and will not hit the inside while turning. The GTR bumpers are pretty low for everyday driving.

Thanks in advance for the pros....Cheers!

34 GTR wheels are 18X9 not 18X8. you may have some trouble with the fronts, but i'm not entirely sure. best way to find out is to see if you can try a pair on. With some low profile 235s on the front they will probably be ok.

Sorry my bad...18x9 :P

i have seen a 33 gtst with them in japan ( with stock 245x45x18 tyres) and i have a picture but not 100% sure if they will hit , probably hit the front inner guards . If you want to see the pic p.m. me your email and i will send it to you .

Just to confirm , they are 18x9 and +30 offset .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...