Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Darren...

how could you want to sell the Nismo GT Pro?  :D

Especially since you bought it from me freshly run in! haha.. It's such an awesome diff, you'll miss it when it's gone......

One my GT Pro in my S15, I found that setting the initial torque to medium made it nicer to drive.  Sure it still clunks, but with regular oil changes (castrol diff oil, 75w140 i think) and the medium setting, it's a lot more tolerable.  At lower speeds, just need to either work the clutch, or slide the tyres around ;)

take care!

KJ

Lol, howdy mate. Dont worry i havent sold it. I actually went for a drive yesterday and asked myself what i was thinking :P

I havent played with the settings yet (still as is from when i bought it off you :P ) But i would like to try to go to the medium setting to see what its like. I just havent had the time to get under there yet and pop the half shaft out :)

I'll give the medium setting a go soon ;)

With regards to the s15's diff (or the gtr's) being weak, i still find it hard to believe.

Yes i have heard of the s15 gearboxes as sheit, but never heard of any diff problems. id say they have one of the toughest factory diff setups.

Unlike Holden who only warranty the damn thing for 12 months :P

With regards to the s15's diff (or the gtr's) being weak, i still find it hard to believe.

'Weak' is a term that someone else used.....it's all relative. Having had one apart and seen the design I can see where the potential for failure is greater given particular features of the Torsen T2 design (S15/R34 base).

I do agree... Looking at the design you can see the how it would be weaker. :)

I'm aiming for upwards of 300rwkw.

The current VLSD does what it whants when it wants, it seems to really like to let go of the left wheel during second gear acceleration.

I might give Tilbrooks a buzz as they have built worked with R34 GTR's and quite a few s15's and see what they think on the helical s15/gtr diff's.

Edited by Cubes

Don't do it Darren!!

Joel could probably tell you, my diff, ATS 1.5way is pretty quiet, it doesn't clunck all that much, only in shopping centre type turns

I'd have a go adjusting it mate, once you get some big power, you will need all the grip you can get. Maybe try the medium and hard setting, in theory, the more pre-load, the more it will just squeal a tyre, and not dis-engage the diff.....

I think Nightcrawler lunched his diff in his S15 a while back didn't he? I remember a problem he had with open wheeling or something after a few drag runs

ok.. I've made my decision..

GTR Diff... I've found a second hand one from the wrecker for a pretty decent price.

If it won't fit up with my axles i'll grab the GTR axles and hubs.

With regards to setting the diff tighter causing it not dissengage.. Sounds like a good idea. The clunk and wobble when it disengages is the horrible part of a mechanical clutch.

Edited by Cubes
ok.. I've made my decision..

GTR Diff... I've found a second hand one from the wrecker for a pretty decent price.

If it won't fit up with my axles i'll grab the GTR axles and hubs.

With regards to setting the diff tighter causing it not dissengage.. Sounds like a good idea. The clunk and wobble when it disengages is the horrible part of a mechanical clutch.

give us some more details on this! what type of LSD does it have and which GTR you getting it out of?

Clint32 has a GTR diff in his 32

had to use GTR hubs and driveshafts as far as I know

I think his was out of a R32

Good choice in keeping the 2way Darren!

My diff needs a oil change, what have you been using in yours?

The GTR flange is the same 5bolt flange as the GTST's. Well so I've been told by an importer.

For the GTR center to fit up in your GTST diff housing you will need the GTR center and half shafts.

IF you want the tougher GTR axles grab the GTR axles and hubs.

I'm going to drop the whole GTST housing grab the GTR center and half shafts and track down a S15/S14/S13 Auto 3.9:1 crown and pinion then take it to some one to install and shim up to make sure its nice and tight.

Hopefully the 3.9:1 will help fuel economy a little and make use of first gear. 40km/h in first at peak power isn't much fun. :D

Edited by Cubes
Clint32 has a GTR diff in his 32

had to use GTR hubs and driveshafts as far as I know

I think his was out of a R32

Good choice in keeping the 2way Darren!

My diff needs a oil change, what have you been using in yours?

Been using the Redline oil. Cant remember what spec. Bought it at Mile end AutoBarn. Im going to do an oil change when i up the preload.

Im also swapping the crown wheel and pinion over to the 3.9 same as Cubes, so i can get a little more out of first.

I've seen them. :rolleyes:

I would think not benifitial for street, but most definitely benifitial for track work. :D

Anything to help keep the diff cool is a good thing. The bathurst gtr's had diff oil coolers.

Edited by Cubes

"I'd have a go adjusting it mate, once you get some big power, you will need all the grip you can get. Maybe try the medium and hard setting, in theory, the more pre-load, the more it will just squeal a tyre, and not dis-engage the diff....."

Ive got a cusco 1.5 way and it doesnt squeal the tyre's at all when cornering it just clunks and bangs all over the shop any idea how I can adjust it?

It seems to fry the tires a lot better than my old stock diff and I seem to have a lot more forward thrust aswell but it doesnt make the tires squeal around corners like the bosses 33's diff does (SA guys will know what Im on about)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway?   Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.
    • As in they quoted one price, you mentioned the exhaust, and they promptly added $200 on top? Interesting.
    • Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.
    • I'd try removing it, connecting hoses and see if that helps. Depending on specs, it could actually be restricting the flow(it also might be helping).
    • Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.
×
×
  • Create New...