Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha, a GST-t box in my car that'd make it RWD (not that it's possible) and make it undriveable in the wet. Then I'll have to suffer from boost problems like all you GTS-t owners.

I stripped 2nd gear coming into boost at about 5000rpms. Yes ladies and gents too much power. This was sometime last year close to it's current state of tune. Running 1.4bar (20psi). The gearbox is a weak link, but nothing a 1/2 dog box wont fix. Which is in my list of things to purchase. Then I'll be shifting from 1st to 2nd without the clutch. Will be fun (wet weather or dry weather :wave: )

And if you think I'm talking crap about to power remark, just ask Ula who spanks his R32 GTR. Btw, Ula, you're a poof :) (Canadian at that!)

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  Quote
Originally posted by poyz

I stripped 2nd gear coming into boost at about 5000rpms. Yes ladies and gents too much power.

5000rpm F#*%K me! what turbo u runnin a T188? she's leaving it a bit late to reach peak....what do u do b4 u reach 5000rpm? have a cup of coffee?:)

dog box... just wack it hard to next gear :)

poyz: as russell crowe says on the 'russell crowe show', 'why don't you choke on some pig vomit you sods!' :P lol

as for the too much power thing... poyz' only got 154kw @4 from 2 years ago.... its not that much! lol. tee hee :)

  Quote
Originally posted by poyz

Does your car have abs?

If so, has it ever saved your ass in the wet?

If so, learn to brake properly and pump the pedal rather than jamming it.

Get my point?

Besides, I'm sure 4wd drivers will agree with me here. Boosting in the wet is hella fun when all 4 wheels light up.

Pumping your brake pedal in a car with ABS??? That's a BIG no no...

Unless your feet can pump faster than 80 cycles per second,

DO NOT ever pump the brake on ABS cars.

ABS car: press brake firmly, as soon as you hear your tyres start

to lock up and feel the ABS working (pulsating sensation under your feet), keep the pressure on, do not add, do not lift off.

The computer will calculate the optimum amount of power for shortest stopping distance.

Non ABS car: press brake firmly, as soon as you hear your tyres start locking up, reduce feet pressure about 5 or 6mm, and hold.

Pressing up more will only lock up ur tyres and slide your car further. Lifting up too much will make you loose brake pressure and not stopping as quick. From what I learned, you don't need to pump the brakes, just lift off a tad, but still you need practice to know where's your brake sweet spot is (the moment it's gonna lock up your wheel)

You're welcome to argue and deny those methods above, but it's been taught in Advance Driving Courses and I have proven it myself. In my car (with ABS), using ABS method above is better than slamming the brake pedal dead, and lifting off or pumping is a very bad braking method (unless your brain is made of Pentium 4 microchip).

my cpu is a neural net processor, a learning computer... :)

  Quote
Originally posted by rs73

...(unless your brain is made of Pentium 4 microchip).

i prefer abs too. lets the computer do all the work for me so i can concentrate on dodging whats up ahead until i stop.

I dont think the initial problem of sliding in the wet is due to braking. I mean i think every sensible driver knows to brake before hitting a corner.

My problem is that the cars butt goes way out everytime i take a curb at 40 ks or so when it has just rained.

My car is only a GTS (i cant afford to upgrade). I think i need better wheels, but dont want to spend money for nothing.

I guess i just have to live with it until i win the lottery or something :)

  Quote
Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

would my 95 gtst r33 have ABS ?

pop the bonnet and look on the passenger side right near the fire wall, if u have abs there will be a metal unit there with thin metal pipes snaking around, and it will have abs written on it also!

  Quote
so i can't change gears without a clutch in my little nissan pulsar?

yes take it to redline and just slam it into the next gear without taking your foot off the accelerator!!

(If u find your transmission on the ground after a few attempts dont blame me!!) :)

SKYLNR...the turbo is a GT2530. It builts boost at about 1200-1500rpm (ie positive pressure). Gets going at 3000. The party starts at 4500 to 7000. Flattens out at to redline at 7500.

RS73...worded incorrectly, I meant to say if he didn't have ABS then you should pump it, otherwise just stomp the pedal hard and don't let go until you stop.

SS8_Gohan (great name, I'm a fan of DBZ). A dog box allows you to change gears without a clutch (without doing considerable damage to syncros - since they don't have any). For example, a quick shift into second without a dog box can be performed like this. Give it hell in 1st, 'pre-load' the shifter by putting very light force as if you were about to go into second. As you approach red-line or rev limiter release the go-fast-pedal. Slam into second without clutch. Stomp go-fast-pedal.

Sure enough you can do this with a synchro box but you'd have to be careful and rev match correctly, otherwise you're just wearing out your sync's

Ula...my 156kw@4wheels two years ago is just that, two years ago. Hell, it was good enough to do a 13.1 @ 104mph down Calder and numerous 0-100 runs in 4.7 seconds with a gearbox safe launch :mad:

take my little pulsar too red-line?? i....... don't think i'll do that (1.6ltr, 4) it doesn't have a rev meter and i think it sounds like she's struggling at about 3500-4000rpm :lol: , so i don't push her harder. I think i might just wait until i get a decent car till i try these sorts of things :P

EDIT: DBZ rocks!!! i think i just saw the very last episode. Won't say what it is if u or other ppl haven't got thru it yet but it's ep 272. Oh yeah, thread.... my car is REALLY dangerous in the wet. 14 or 15inch hub-caps, tyre width of about an inch and soft suspension. 20km/h, que rear wheel shudder, 30km/h turn que good bye back end, only thing i got going for me is it's a RWD. But it's fun to drive tho. Just gotta change to 2nd after about 20km/h :lol:

Don't worry about it, if you go too far I'm sure the smart nissan engineers have included a fuel cut. If not, then you can push the car home :P

Otherwise, you can go "ful sic bro" and install an 5" autometer tacho. Then you'll never miss a shift!

I think I've seen 272...I'll check my 2+ gig collection of episodes.

  Quote
Originally posted by SS8_Gohan

take my little pulsar too red-line??  i....... don't think i'll do that (1.6ltr, 4) it doesn't have a rev meter and i think it sounds like she's struggling at about 3500-4000rpm :lol: , so i don't push her harder. I think i might just wait until i get a decent car till i try these sorts of things :P

EDIT: DBZ rocks!!! i think i just saw the very last episode. Won't say what it is if u or other ppl haven't got thru it yet but it's ep 272. Oh  yeah, thread.... my car is REALLY dangerous in the wet. 14 or 15inch hub-caps, tyre width of about an inch and soft suspension. 20km/h, que rear wheel shudder, 30km/h turn que good bye back end, only thing i got going for me is it's a RWD. But it's fun to drive tho. Just gotta change to 2nd after about 20km/h :lol:

nah ss8 gohan

the pulsar is cools

i love thrasing my dads pulsar q 4door hatch

its a 1.8l and i floor it 1st gear all the way to redline which is 6000rpm

lol once i get to that i hear this clanging sound in the engine haha

pulsar is mad, i get so much wheelspin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...