Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey yo! Recently I discovered a crack in my windscreen in the bottom left corner, no idea how or when I got it but I would say a stone from a car in front. It isn't a major crack, but just something I would like an opinion on or something from someone who has had one before. Attatched is a very time consuming & artistic diagram of the crack so you know what I'm babbling about.

I have never been pulled over in the skyline since I got it (6mths), but you never know. It is hard to spot, but because it is where the rego sticker is this would be somewhere they will take a look. It would be defectable if it was on the middle of the windscreen, but I'm just wondering if would be a defect or depend on the cop. Cheers.

post-17137-1132659759.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95924-windscreen-defect/
Share on other sites

Generally windscreen defects can only be for cracks and chips that effect the drivers vision.

So basically anything from about the center of the car you should do straight away.

But since yours is over on the left, you should be fairly right.

Just watch it and make sure you don't end up with two windscreens.

how can you fix chips and scratches in your glass? Other than replacing the glass ?

There are windscreen guys that do repairs on small chips and cracks, not sure exactly how they do it, but they can do it and its always cheaper than replacing the entire windscreen.

Well in NSW it is legal if the crack does not go over the drivers side of the windscreen, so split your windscreen 50/50 see if it does, if it doesn't it's legal, but if it were me i'd get is fixed asap, these sort of things seem to spread quickly.

Your crack doesn't look roadworthy. The actual crack can't be bigger than a 20c piece, if I remember correctly. And its not repairable at that size.

Bear in mind that your windscreen is a load-bearing component, so the cops will frown on having big cracks.

see, everyone has different opinions on this...

i used to have a VK commodore wagon that had a crack from the top to the bottom of the windscreen, right over on the lefthand side... now, i was told by many people that this is roadworthy, and i never had a problem with the police or anything with it...

the rule i was told (don't know how correct it is) is that you can't have any stonechips and/or cracks within the arc of the wiper blades

Forget the law I'd be thinking about common sense.

Say you get a kamikazi bird and it hits your windscreen - do you want that shiit in your face at 80kmh ??

I'd fix it man - as for defects I think you'd probably just get away with it most times but if they go to read your sticker and see it they'd find it un-roadworthy for the logical reason above. I'm just guessing this however so I could be wrong.

i've fixed cracks a hell of a lot longer than that. The rule is anything in the arc of the wippers, but it is also up to the discresion of the , bloke doing roadworthy, department of transport, cops. I'd get it repaired as soon as but untill then put sticky tape over it on the outside of the glass. it won't stop it cracking but it will keep the crap out of it so when you get it repaired it won't be full of dirt/ water and repair more invisable. once its repaired just put the rego sticker where the crack is and no one will know.

Obrien windscreen and other places like that can repair it for about ~$60, heard its not that great may as well get a new one if need be.

my computer is screwed and pics aren't showing up for me but you say its on the left side, try covering it up with th rego sticker :P

Get it fixed man! Last Christmas my girlfriend got a stone or something flicked into her windscreen while she was driving. The stone made a *tiny* chip just below the windscreen wiper so she didn't notice it. 5 minutes of driving later and this huuuuge crack starts to travel up the windshield! Wasn't a good time to find out that her insurance company wouldn't cover it! So my advice would definetely be to fix it if you can.

Skinner: "Posh. Newspapers add much needed roughage and essential inks. Bet you didn't even notice the gym mats."

Doris: "There's very little meat in these gym mats."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...