Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dyno.JPG

R33 GTS-T Auto

Pod

FMIC

EBC

High graph = high setting on EBC

Low graph = low setting on EBC (max 175rwkw or so)

As you can see, the high setting is poor on the lower end.

Does anyone have any suggestions on ways I can solve this issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96547-analyse-my-dyno-graph/
Share on other sites

wink i friend of mine is running a WOLF 3d in his auto as it has the out puts to run the auto (but i'm no fan of the wolf)

SAFC 2 would be my suggesting, not to $$ second hand and in the right hands can be tuned pretty quickly for reasonable results. Plus with fuel prices like they are now it would most likely paid to get it done. Whats your fuel consumption like with the map running 10:1 when i would think 12.5:1 would be much closer to the mark for a light tuned rb.

pete

wink i friend of mine is running a WOLF 3d in his auto as it has the out puts to run the auto

The PFC also has "outputs to run the auto", no big deal there. The problem is no aftermarket ECU (that I have found) has the shift logic programmed to cut/retard the ignition on gearchanges. I have driven autos with Motec's, Autronics, Wolfs and PFC's and none of them have decent shift quality. They are all very jerky at low throttle openings and have lots of slippage at larger throttle openings. The more power, the worse the slippage. All but one have now had gearbox rebuilds in fairly short intervals.

In the Stagea I have a Jaycar DFA for fuel tuning, a Jaycar IEBC for boost control and an Apexi SITC for ignition tuning. That's a glove box full of piggy backs, but the gearchanges are as good as standard and the gearbox is still alive and kicking.

:P cheers :)

Emanage is better than safc cause you can get it with a ingnision timing

harness

now after that you will need a shif kit

fuel pump reg and injectors

make a box for your pod

hiflow turbo

good for 220rwkw at least on a good turn not maxed out

james

Wink - easily said, as others have but you seem to be missing the point.

PowerFC - dont bother, its possible, but with major side affects you dont want

S-AFC - is what you want and will fix your problem with a little tuning

Wink also is that with your foot flat on the floor to get full throtal

when mine was at 12psi it would pop

i have set it to 10 and now my power band is heaps better

stock ecu cant handle much more than that nether can the turbo

no mention of an exhaust system

james

I forgot to mention the car is also running a 3" turbo back but only stock cat.

It seems general consensus is that a SAFC is the way to go.

However miller brings up the GReddy E-Manage.

The E-Manage costs around the same as a SAFC so can someone give me a quick comparo of the features/differences.

In the end, E-Manage (with Ignition harness) vs SAFC + ITC.

Thank you all for your informative input. Appreciate it! :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...