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Crank Collar

carl h

By carl h,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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carl h Proficient

carl h

Posted
Posted

i know jun makes a crank collar to fix the slippy oil pump problem for the short snout cranks but where can i get one?

also iirc there was some one on SDU which sold a 'copy' collar for a reasonable price, and since im almost postive that my rb20 was affected by this drive issue i would like to correct it while it is out of the car.....

thanks.

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Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Pro Engines in Queanbeyan now sell these.

I am told that they are made from 4340 Chrome Moly which is as hard as what the crank is made out of.

$150 supplied or $350 fitted. These are not the sort of thing you can fit yourself at home.

http://www.proengines.com.au/

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proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

To fit the drive collar you need to machine the area of the oil pump drive and seal area down to 35mm and the collar is pressed on and then grub screwed through the oil pump drive flats. I think some people weld up the front of the crank and machine it back but I havent seen one that's done. I prefer the collar idea. We have them CNC machined from 4340 chrome moly so they wear well, it's a very tough steel. I've attached some photos of what's involved.

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post-8303-1133612248.jpg

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post-8303-1133612320.jpg

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post-8303-1133612379.jpg

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Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Looks great Greg... will probably need one when I blow my engine sky high and need another rebuild :P (Ask Ed whats im doing with the car).

For anyone that might be concerned about local made "copy"products, Greg does excellent work and has built many a tough GTR's, and always stands by his products. His sump baffles are awesome and a great price too ;) (end of shameless free plug)

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Skyrine-Dave Mentor

Skyrine-Dave

Posted
Posted

thats some very tidy looking work!

is there anyone in QLD who you would reccommend to do this sort of job? and can actuallt do the job!

how difficult is it to do whilst the engine is still in the car?

once again thats an awesome looking setup you have developed!

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proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys, I thought it was worthwhile making the collars after seeing the price of the Japanese ones, I fitted one a while back and couldn't believe the price for what they are. We have 3 engines here at the moment that need one which pretty much offset the setup costs to make them. They are being made in batches of 10 so we should always have a few spares around.

Nick, I was talking to Ed about your engine, it should be a good test of what sort of power you can make using the GTR rods. It will be very interesting to see. I should have the 3 litre setup done by the time you eventually break yours!

Dave, you couldn't fit this particular collar while the crank is still in the engine, theres a bit of machining to be done first which needs to be pretty accurate. Most engine shops could fit it once the crank is out, the machining is probably better done in a crank grinder/cylindrical grinder to get it spot on concentric to the centreline of the crank so that both drive flats contact perfectly with the inner gear of the pump I give the collar .002" interference with the snout of the crank which provides the drive, the grub screws are only there as a bit of added insurance. I dont know a lot of engine shops in QLD, I know Bryant Engineering do some very good work, that's not saying that other shops dont though.

I was thinking of making up a spline drive setup similar to what Toyota use on their engines but it would have meant also making a new inner pump gear and as there are so many different pumps available it wouldn't have been worth it. one day in the future maybe.

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Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted (edited)

Should make up a kit for people doing rebuilds, N1 oil pump with spline drive and sump baffles... get all the oil system sorted in one easy go, and the spline drive will never have any of the problems the RB normal drive has ;)

Yeah the rods will be interesting... talked to a couple of people about it (who are in the know, will fill you in later) and they have all said if I keep a sane rev limit the rods should hold it, its the rod bolts that are the weakest link... (from memory you put the ARP 2000's in mine?). Either way, I know the gearbox isnt going to last a week :P

Edited by Amaru
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T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

only 200bucks for fitting that. thats very good somhow the basted fil would not cut it i think :P

great to see how its done ;) i always thought it was pushed up against the small factory on(sortof a add-on thing)

cheeres

oh i dont think a spline drive would work due to how the nose of the crank vibrating.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...mpers/index.htm

post-19586-1133651661.jpgpost-19586-1133651745.gif

Edited by T04GTR
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my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
Posted

Does this problem only effect series 1 R32 gtr not series 2?

I know the issue was sorted by the time the r33 gtr (series 1) was released, 93 also???

i know jun makes a crank collar to fix the slippy oil pump problem for the short snout cranks but where can i get one?

also iirc there was some one on SDU which sold a 'copy' collar for a reasonable price, and since im almost postive that my rb20 was affected by this drive issue i would like to correct it while it is out of the car.....

thanks.

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Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
R33 gtr's were released 1993. I thought ALL R33 gtr's had the longer crank???

Can anyone confirm...

R33 GTR wasnt released till 1995 (the GTST was in 1993)... the R32 GTR was still in production through 1994. The last 94 models had the longer crank drive, all R33 and R34's have it as well (GTR's that is).

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