Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well ive been building my rb26 for the past 6 months now, and it was supposed to be a quick build, but the shops in perth i was reccomended too have absolutely turned it into a bloody nightmare

first shop got the block for machining, they said 3 weeks to finish the machining MAX, and it took me 11 weeks to get the bloody thing back after alot of stuffing around and about $30 in phone calls back and forth trying to get it.

so i said stuff that useless mob of wallys, and got all my gear and i aint ever touching them again. (plenty of other issues, like smoking clutch packs in my gearbox on the dyno thanks to their excellent knowledge of the skyline awd platforms, and then charging me for their effort and blaming the transfer case which was perfectly fine and we got it in 2wd at home in 2 min)

so i needed the head ported and assemblied, so i goto another perth shop (very well known also) and they said yep 1-2 weeks max for porting and assembly. well its been another 11 weeks and i still have not got it back, ive called em every 2-3 days for the past 8 weeks or so and they claim "oh another 2 days and its done" then the same excuse over and over and over and over for the last 8 weeks.

how the bloody hell do these businesses get a good reputation and keep customers because they are absolutely useless, and a 2 year old kid could organise it better. so ive been waiting 22 weeks or over 5 months for a simple head machining and assembly and a block to be bored and machined. NO assembly of the engine or nuthin.

i am so damn frustrated its not funny, and if anyone wants to know more about these so called "reputable businesses" can PM me and ill let ya know everything.

and i hope these 2 businesses go to hell, they have cost me over $50 just in phone calls, and i asked for a price for a HKS v band clamp from the second business and they said ill call ya back and that was when i first took the head in so thats 11 weeks of waiting for a price on a product. i recalled and said i want the price of the clamp and they just have not bothered at all.

im never dealing with these useless joints in my life and every single person i speak to in the future is gonna hear about them and i will make sure no one i know will ever give u dicks another cent!

/end rant

Brad

Edited by StageZilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97008-perth-performance-shops-are-useless/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well ive sent everyone PM's hopefully stops these morons getting some customers, and all the public wants is a descent workshop that doesnt bullshit for weeks and weeks on end about y something aint done. if they said 11 weeks at the start i'd be alright, i wouldnt have givin it to em, would gone over east str8 away, but they say 1-2 weeks to get ya business and then f**k ya round for 3 months with lies.

im contemplating goin to one of these above mentioned shops and letting some fellow enthusiasts know about there work, which dyno days help get everyone there and let em know, i might even get all the unhappy ones and start a rally out the front hahah :lol:

so to the shop with my head HURRY THE f**k UP you useless wankers.

just as work of mouth can make a business boom and become popular, word of mouth can bring the truth to the surface and ultimately take these useless places down to getting no customers, except idiots who just deny they are crap and dont speak to other enthusiasts.

look out cause u know which 2 shops u r!!!

on the first business mentioned a few users have pm'd me and mentioned of being overcharged after being qouted a price, like double the original qoute, so they get the business by qouting low to beat other shops and then screw you over once its done and u cant do shit. f**kin greedy :)

Edited by StageZilla

I'm sure that calling them "usless w*ankers" is really going to get your work done faster...

I see you have tried calling them every few days - but have you asked for a reason on why its taking so long and told them that you are frustrated rather than venting on car forums?

I'm sure that calling them "usless w*ankers" is really going to get your work done faster...

I see you have tried calling them every few days - but have you asked for a reason on why its taking so long and told them that you are frustrated rather than venting on car forums?

yer about $50 worth of phonecalls asking to talk to manager who promised it would be done this week just gone for sure, and he said he would rush it for me haha rush, so the week is finished and still nuthin, asked for then to get the manager to call me cause he wasnt in at the time yesterday and i aint recieved no call.

$50 in phonecalls has got me stuff all, and worst trouble is im in joondalup and the shop is over south side which is a pain to go in person, or i woulda been down their ages ago.

monday they will hear from me at 9am dont u worry, and thats in person :)

they would rather organise dyno days and shit than actaully finish customers work first.

i just dont want everyone having the same probs, and it seems a few users actually are experiencing shit services from these lot of "reputable shops".

i dont care if it wont get my head back from whinging,but i know ive managed to inform atleast 30 people in the last day on here about these 2 useless shops so hopefully ive saved a few potential customers from the same hassles.

Hey could you please PM me the details as well? I think almost everyone has or knows someone who's had some bad experiences with workshops at sometime or another, I know my brother and I certainly have. I always chalk it down to having expectations that are too high and what not but your story seems like the workshops in question are really shonky tonk.

"But my mom says I'm cool."

Naming workshops makes the admins a sad panda..

having done it myself a couple of times it gets you int rouble..

That said, im going through the same sort of crap, not so much with machining, as i know that takes time, but getting some panel work sorted, which my normal panel beater, someone ive known for a while, used before, and recomended a large amount of business too, said would only take half a day to do..

anyway hes a busy man, so ive been waiting patiently for him to have some time to perform said tasks..

i waited

i waited some more

and then my patience ran out, especially as my car is booked in for a tower to tower roll cage in a week's time, and once that goes in, if the car wasn't 100% square, it wouldn't ever be square and it'd handle like a pig..

so i walked in on monday and explained, that i _need_ him to pull out the damage before said date.. The response of take a number didn't really help my problem..

so thursday i walk into Zammits panel and paint in ossie park, explain what i need, got a price, said id be in touch..

Rang them back later thursday afternoon, and asked what sort of time frame they could do it in, the response of "we're quiet in that dept atm, so if you dropped it in, you'd probably get it back same day"

So, i dropped it to them at 8am friday morning, he said to give them a call about lunch to see how there doing, no probs i said..

At 11am, thats a whole 3 hours later, the phone rings, "Yep we're done, you can come pick it up"..

thats what i call service, no screwing around, no hassle, i paid my cash, said thankyou very much, and left, none of this waiting on mates to do something pretty straight forward for you, even when your going to pay them to do it..

So from now on, ill be recomending my friends to go elsewhere..

I found that going to less known specialist workshops is much better than getting engine work done by the so called 'jap performance' workshops. Had my head done on my 180sx in one day. Dropped in on a Mon and picked up on Tues.

PM me if you want a recommendation.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...