Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

jason, just put an aftermarket front bar on it if you want to make it 'angry' so to speak. your car looks very nice as it is mate, love the height and well as how the wheels sets of the entire appearance of the car.

I'd have got a R33 if they weren't $30,000 when I got my R32

The $10,000 dollar differance was they clinching factor for me

I'd swap my 32 for a 33 any day, even with around 200rwkw, I like the feel of a R33, feels more solid and has that big car pressence on the road

R32's interior is dated now while R33 still looks pretty good

either one is going to cost you a shitload if you want to go quicker than stock

Reckon you shouldn't rule out the R33 GTS25T 4dr Sedan, it's a solid option as well. You might find one that comes close to your budget, there aren't as many around, they look great and go as well as anything else around.

Mine came with some wierd ass side skirts and a Nismo style rear spoiler but I'm personally not fussed about the S1 front bar. I actually think that it looks quite alright, even better with the centre section cut out to show off your FMIC (must get around to that one day). And the added bonus, no ground clearance problems like the bigger bars.

Tastefully lowered with a nice set of rims finishes them off nicely.

Plus they don't tend to attract as much of the "wrong" kind of attention!! :(

Good luck with your decision......but I don't reckon you'd be disappointed regardless of which model 'line you end up choosing.

:D

i have a s1, they are gay from the front but for the extra cash is it really woth it?, as it is pretty much the only difference between the two.

you can make it angry! :P

Main diff is the headlights n bonnet between the s1 n 2. but making a S1 look tough can be done by a vented bonnet n 400r front bar :)

Main diff is the headlights n bonnet between the s1 n 2. but making a S1 look tough can be done by a vented bonnet n 400r front bar :D

yer, maybe s2 vented bonnet s2 hedlights and s2 400r front bar!!

altho there is those eyelid things for s1 33... :D

and not to forged the boot lip.. :) i love them, need to get one. :D

Edited by DriftR_33
its an addiction, there are so many differenent things you can do to improve these cars!

I agree.

Drop RB30DETs in them with a nice set of 264cams, gt3540 .82, 3.5" exhaust and have 20-22psi by ~3500rpm, maybe a shade over.. :blink:

or.. If you really want it to rev its nuts off and make 400rwkw...

RB30DET, forged rods/pistons, ati balancer, 272 cams, gt3540 1.06, 4" exhaust and dial in hrmm maybe 26psi, that should be in by a 4000rpm or a shade over and rev nicely to 7.5-8k.

Nice to dream.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...