Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You realise how much of a dick your making yourself look like? Bagging me out isnt going to get yourself anywhere either....

Just buy an R32, Modify it and be done with the smartass comments.

:)

this thirty2 guy sounds like a fool.

i can understand where he is coming from when he says his commonwhore is quick - its a V8 - more bottom end torque and power in a the lower revs. A standard R33 wouldnt have as much power in the lower rev range, so mabye he has been blinded by the push rods? :lol:

I own a R32 GTSt - it goes OK. I suggest you test drive one. Test drive a GTR then please come back and tell us what you think.

But wait! I bet your 308 would still beat it right???? :)

.......................

Edited by sproosy

hmmm the battle continues in private messages between me and thirty2

go back to the first post where it says R33gtst He pm'd me and asked for the HP rating for a stock R33 GTST the rating i gave him was 250hp on a good day but prob closer to 240 he then gave me stats for a non turbo and calls me a liar for stating turbo figures???

Edited by MintR33
perhaps school hols are close?

Yep - but even now with most exams are over there are plenty of 16+yr olds lurking.

I agree with Dezz - you came on here asking for advice and then start calling everyone dick.

How do you expect to get the help you want if you are being so rude.

And a tip - if you say your looking at getting a 32 - don't lie in your profile by saying you already have one.

Meh, stock Gts-t's are slow. 32, 33 or 34. Nothing special.

Coming from a Ford Laser, even I wasn't overly impressed by the power of my R33 Gts-t when I picked it up. Sure, it was fun and all that but it didn't feel like it had much at all on the BA's I drive at work.

But like any guy who wants power, I just did some mods. Problem solved :)

true . why do they weight so much??

Look at the size of them! What the hell do you expect? It's not a little hatchback thats going to weigh 900kgs!

A stock VK 308 fast? Bahahahahaha!!! Either your car is not stock, or you don't know what fast is...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...