Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I cant get my wheel locknuts off...dont have the key, gota recheck with guy i got car from...went 2 bob janes 2day 2 c if they could get them off and no luck, then went to the distributers to see if they have spare keys to fit n still no luck. last resort will b 2 chisel them off but might scratch rims...

not sure what type, but its round on the outside and the inside is a 4 point star thing with a thin groove and bubbly (lol) ill get a pic up here tomm...

can any1 help/know any theives who've had expierence in this? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/
Share on other sites

Except by the sounds of it he has the ones with the internal key which are harder to get off.

But as the others have said, the usual way to get them off is to mash a socket onto it and get it off that way. I had to do that on my SS cause it didn't come with the key for the lock nuts when I bought it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1769293
Share on other sites

Hi all

I cant get my wheel locknuts off...dont have the key, gota recheck with guy i got car from...went 2 bob janes 2day 2 c if they could get them off and no luck, then went to the distributers to see if they have spare keys to fit n still no luck. last resort will b 2 chisel them off but might scratch rims...

not sure what type, but its round on the outside and the inside is a 4 point star thing with a thin groove and bubbly (lol) ill get a pic up here tomm...

can any1 help/know any theives who've had expierence in this? lol

Show us a pic mate, sounds similar to the BMW wheel lock nuts..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1785028
Share on other sites

I had the same problem last week, it took ages to get mine off.

What i did was drill straight down the centre of the stud, with a drill piece almost the same size as the stud, then chiselled as much of the lock nut away as possible, then i jacked the car up and pulled and shook on the rim, then eventually it loosened itself.

After spending days and nights on doing this, cutting up my hands and putting minor scratches on the rim trying to work out ways to get the piece of shit off, i was sitting in the car just looking through stuff and yep you guessed it.......The lock nut key was in the centre console the whole time. :) Ah well

oh yeah my lock nut is the same style as yours too.

Edited by CNFUSD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1790266
Share on other sites

Had the same problem with mine when 1st imported....needed new tyres for blue slip.

Bash job worked ok.

Find the smallest socket that will slide over it and then go the next size down from that.

For me, once i had selected the size, went to Cash Converters and bought the same size socket for 50c and used that one instead of a good one.

Bashed it on as far as it would go, which wasn't very far, then heave ho!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1790280
Share on other sites

vange, just get a cross-bar and hammer the closest size to the lock nut over it. It will come off in 2 seocnds flat. Or take the car to a McLeods or whatever and get them to do it - they do it all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1792681
Share on other sites

that sucks CNFUSD, all that work 4 nothing....u think urs would fit?

I dont think the chances of mine fitting would be to good, so id say that you would be better off doing what i had to do, or if you can still drive take it to a tyre place, i didnt have that option cos it went flat on a saturday night, so i had to get the thing towed hm.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1793952
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...