Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well he could probably buy two GTS-t's for the price of a GT-R but of course its not quite the same!

R33 GT-R will be a collectors item and should hold their value, along with any GT-R.

With the GTS-T forget about it being any sort of money holder, its just a sink to play with and enjoy :P

imho get an r34 gt-t (99-2002?), these cars look awesome and go great, faster then an xr6t most likely, and they have alot of potential for extra mods extra. Resale value would be very good too as they are new. Can come in tip tronic auto too i think.

If not the r34 get an xr6t rather then an r33 :P

i walked in with a cheque to buy that n1gtr. drove it down to my mechanic, and placed it on the hoist. it had marks indicating that it had been on a jig. cars dont go on jigs unless they have been in something major. the gearbox mounts have also gone. the underbody is also soooooo clean..... you can put your tongue on it. you put the rest together......

Guest neoGT-25

i think ether a R33 GTR V-spec -or- R34 GT-T (tiptronic) that way your wife cant complain ether :)

R34 GT-T are coming way down in price and as some others have said "they make a refreshing look on the roads" i have a R34 GT and it gets looked at all the time and you just feel so good :D (sounds harsh but cant argue with the facts)

any way... yeh thats my opinion... byes

PS: Good luck with what ever you buy :)

you should go for the r34 gt-t.. mainlt because its newer.. and so..

yeah.. just pretty much on that idea.. the r34 should be preferred..

sure.. a series III r33 gtr would also be good.. but a r34 gt-t would be the ideal car to choose - if you have the money (of course)

As much as i love Skylines, i would at the drop of a hat swap with cash payment of balance aswell my R32 GTST for an XR6T or a new XR8.

Go with the new car option - im getting a bit frustrated with dealing with specialist mechanics etc and would give my right leg to have a warranty. Although new cars have teething problems at least repairs are under warranty and not as much will go wrong on a new car as opposed to a 10yr old import.

The new Falcons are awesome - esp the XRs so go out and get yourself a Blueprint or Phantom coloured XR6T or XR8 - you wont regret it. At times i regret buying my import (as much as i love it) because the costs are never ending.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...