Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Do you actually need a cannon? i'm not that well educated on the subject, but i thought cannons were for turbo cars, NA versions needed something more substantial to create sufficient backpressure to run well (or something like that). Anyone feel free to tell me otherwise, i'm in the market for a new exhaust system and don't want a loud, droning note.

if your exhaust is 2.5" factory its probly crush bent.

somthing that could make your guys lifes easyer with r33s you could buy the turbo guys factory exhuast as they are 2.5" mandrel bent from the factory. i have one on my car even tho its rb20e.. but that will be gone for a rb30de soon. lol.

yeah N/As need some back pressure as it helps the scavanging effect. a muffler like a flowmaster one would probly sound good. i will replace my stock rear muffler when i get the new motor put in as this one is a little rattly and doesn't make much sound. plus i don't get the typical skyline backfire :huh:

if your exhaust is 2.5" factory its probly crush bent.

somthing that could make your guys lifes easyer with r33s you could buy the turbo guys factory exhuast as they are 2.5" mandrel bent from the factory. i have one on my car even tho its rb20e.. but that will be gone for a rb30de soon. lol.

yeah N/As need some back pressure as it helps the scavanging effect. a muffler like a flowmaster one would probly sound good. i will replace my stock rear muffler when i get the new motor put in as this one is a little rattly and doesn't make much sound. plus i don't get the typical skyline backfire :huh:

correct - stock exhaust was/is crush bent. will be interested to hear about your experience building the RB30DE

correct - stock exhaust was/is crush bent. will be interested to hear about your experience building the RB30DE

well so far i have most of everything that i will need to get it up and running. you can see the difference in rod lengths of rb30 and rb25. i just need to get the bottom end rebuilt and the head put on then i can finish the rest. it has a braded hose running from the head to just next to the oil filter. i will post some pics up when i have the basic block assembled.

i am only missing 3 major components, gearbox, clutch and computer plus ill need custom extractors.

it should be good when its all up and running. ill use a plug in GTS link once it is run in. hopfully completed and in car by end of january to mid febuary :D

  • 4 weeks later...

Are you sure stock piping is 2.25"? I measured mine this morning for the new muffler and it came out to be a fraction less than 2" - the guy who imported it told me it was "dead stock". Why would anyone put on an exhaust which was smaller than stock (and mild steel to boot)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...