Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just flat shift and every 3 months you can "order new gearbox and ship overnight from Japan".

Sounds like a good plan, "We'll put it on my tab at Harry's".

Edited by Mr Italy!
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes flat shifting is where you have accelertor flat to the floor and you have a quick stab at the clutch and change gears, have done this a few times for WSID in gtst33 216rwkw, no problems as yet. (box was just rebuilt 3 months ago) keep doing it, it will smash something, but i keep it all very smooth too.

not really back to square 1 thats the point of the BOV to release the pressure so its got somewhere else to go other than back down to turbo and spinning it down (and worst case, damage)

and given you change with high enough revs you shouldnt come off boost even if you dont flat shift

not entirely sure of exact point of flat shifting (never really liked it, prob cause never had dog box) but i would say (given strong box) it gives a jolt of speed/power when gear changed as opposed letting off go pedal and having to apply power AFTER gear change

RellikZephyr

I was always under the impression that flat shifting involved keeping foot to the floor and no clutch. V8 supercars do it all the time (but they can rebuild the gearbox after every race if need be!). I've always referred to leaving foot to the floor and using clutch as a power shift. The revs build during the shift and when you get the clutch out engine speed is greater than road speed and hence the car will surge forward. It can be enough to push you ahead of another car during a drag. I don't do it myself as it puts excess wear on the clutch and gearbox.

lol at this thread! especially the 2f2f references. We would all know better without it.. Here's what I recon, v8 sc's have a dog box and to change gears they just ease off the gas and push hard on the gear stick in the direction on the next gear and it should slam into it. The lifting of the gas helps it pull out of gear. I think you need to double clutch on the down change only though. Only Vin Diesel needs to double clutch on the up change...

I know this chick who's fiance had a dog box in his liberty and she said it was a pain in the arse to drive around town because of the double clutch on the down change. However, the up change was sweet! Just lift of the gas for 1/2 a sec and SLAM! Then he sold the car to someone who didn't double clutch it an suprise suprise, it broke about a month later...

.......shall add that I'm not really a V8 SuperCab fan, but seeing the incar footage of Greg Murphy is a good example of how to drive in a "drag" situation

Nah if i remember correctly, one of the commentators mentioned some fancy technology that they've just employed that makes it work pretty much like they used the clutch to change gears, but it reduces the gear change time slighty as they dont need to lift off/push down on the pedals again... Without placing any more stress on the gearbox then they usually would.

Mind you, i heard that about 3 months ago so my memory may be slightly off.

Edited by Mr Italy!

damn you gotta teach me that skill

RellikZephyr

EDIT: although the BOV woldnt release during a flat shift cause the throttle doesnt actually close so... not that hard a skill after all

Edited by RellikZephyr

The most important bit is the launch. U want minimal wheel spin so u know ur getting maximum traction, control the clutch firmly so u dont bog at all, but so u still get power to the ground.

I raced another r33 tonite, i was lucky with a neat launch and got the jump on him, he couldnt close the gap. then just concentrate on your shifts, smooth and quick. u dont need to necessarily redline it either.

1st to second is the main shift. so practise practise practise...

people say you loose boost but remember the exhaust coming out is still traveling fast so by the time your in the next gear and the bov is closed there still should be boost there....

RIGHT?

thats the point of the BOV to keep the turbo spooling therefore not loosing any boost

RellikZephyr

You'll also find that the V8 SC guys have ignition cut on their clutches which, obviously, cuts ignition for the splilt second it takes them to jam the gears, hence they keep their foot flat on the throttle.

They also have a soft limiter which will keep revs pegged at 7500 between gears, such is the beauty of Motec.

I used to flat shift 1st to 1nd in my VN V6 5 speed commodore all the time, but couldn't do 2nd to 3rd. Mind you, it took we about 0.1 do rip it from 1st to 2nd!!

I ran a 15.2 in that car. It rocked!

They also have a soft limiter which will keep revs pegged at 7500 between gears, such is the beauty of Motec.

Is that the same Motek exhaust found on Honda Civic's?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...