Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas

Im actually posting on my brothers account as I dont have one on the SAU forums :)

Im using an rb20det turbo (16v-10) on my Honda Civic VTiR, but it just isnt making any sort of decent power like it should. Basically on 10psi on my engine I should be ripping through the stock clutch and spinning tyres easily..

This is all based on a mates turbo civic which made only 130kw at the wheels, using a TD04, so it seems i am making significantly less then what i should (170atw for reference)

Does anyone have any information on the size of this turbo? Some people have said its a .48 ar, but it looks quite small. Ive been told these turbos support 180rwkw on the skyline engines, whether thats going to relate to my dohc vtec engine i doubt it, as it is different to your nissan engines.

The turbo does hold boost all the way to redline, which is 8200rpm, so there is no problem there.

Any information about the turbo would be great!

Regards,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97938-stock-rb20det-turbo/
Share on other sites

I dont want to cause a shiit here but, the lack of capacity has nothing to do with it.

On the 1.6 DOHC VTEC engine its well known that to achieve 170-180kw atw is attainable. That is however is most cases using a T3/T4 57trim .63ar turbo :)

Does anyone know the size of the nissan 16v-10?

I wouldn't go bigger turbo to achieve a 170kw power figure as you may be disappointed with the power delivery. You may get 170atw but in will be all or nothing.

As for yours not feeling quick I would get in on the dyno - check the timing, Air fuel ratios and boost levels.

There could be other things holding it back. I have a TD04L at home off a rex that I was going to turbo a corolla with. I think the RB20 turbo is a little bigger - not sure on specifics though.

Are you running standard internals? What engine management?

Any more than 130-140atwkw would be a waste. Ive been in a astra turbo that has 170kw (probably about 120-130atw) at the flywheel and any more in a front wheel drive would be silly.

You'll be fiighting wheelspin and torque steer

Edited by benl1981

Depending on the dyno the rb20t turbo's do make ~170rwkw with around 14psi, exhaust, fmic and tuned ecu on a RB20DET.

I've ran a rb20det turbo on my rb30det that runs the better flowing rb25 head, that requires only 9psi with the same above mods to make 176rwkw.

So... If the head isn't breathing well in a forced induction application then your going to have to push more boost in to it to bring the airflow up.

That turbo appears to be spooling well. On the RB20DET I used to see ~11psi by a shade over 3000rpm and 1bar by ~3500rpm under normal driving conditions. Load it up in 4th and 1bar would be seen at approx 2800rpm. I never saw boost at those rpms on the road as I would always drop it back a gear. :D

You haven't actually said how much yours is making?!?

Edited by Cubes

No need. Simply push more boost in to it.

RB25 turbo is only going to make it come on smoother and have less mid range.

Remember it is a little 1.6ltr, where it spools at the moment looks to be quite a nice streetable package that simply needs more boost. :blink:

Edited by Cubes
No need. Simply push more boost in to it.

RB25 turbo is only going to make it come on smoother and have less mid range.

Remember it is a little 1.6ltr, where it spools at the moment looks to be quite a nice streetable package that simply needs more boost. :)

wouldnt it depend on if the engine is stock or not? Wouldnt it be safer to run a bigger turbo with less boost, than a smaller turbo with more boost.

I may be wrong, i am most of the time :blink:

-Michael :)

Wouldnt it be safer to run a bigger turbo with less boost, than a smaller turbo with more boost.

Thats always the case but it doesn't mean I'm going to run a GT42 as it may do 300rwkw on 10psi vs the GT30 running 20psi.

I know which will accelerate faster and be much nicer to drive due to a higher average power.

Which does raise another issue. Whats the static comp? This will influence the amount of boost he is able to run.

B16a's arent a little 1.6 litre.

you are forgetting that the high VTEC cam is some 290 degrees in duration - and you need a decent trubo to match this. A workshop in sydney that did turbo B16's used HKS 2835 turbos on their low and turbo kits, no lag, msooth power and made 230kw at the tyres...

Just somehting to think about.

Its his brother posting again here, his external wastegate opens at 10.7psi, so thats how much psi he is putting through the turbo - and your correct it is a t3 flange.

His current rb20det turbo is slowly dying, as the seals in it have just gone.

I will let him know MattSR your advice, though i think all he was really after was the 'specs' on the turbo.. as ozhonda, and more specifically an american honda website that specialises in turboing these engines has given him some ideas as to why he isnt hitting high powerfigures.

Keep the ideas and feedback comming, does anyone know the specific size of it .xx?

Dayne

Hi Cubes,

Totally agree there - I guess I was being a little over enthusiastic with my reply. It did have lag (as most engines with any decent turbo do) What I was trying to say was that the power delivery was really very linear, it slowly built boost from low RPM and was quite pleasant in its delivery.

Cheers,

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...