Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today at bel i got a power fc install and tune, only mods are k&n panel and bov.

I got 153rwkw and 435Nm torque (r34 gtt), does this seem a bit low for the power output?

ive heard of ppl getting 170's with just power fc but ive been told it depends on the type of dyno and run?

one of the bel guys told me hes seen cars get 180+ and only 140+ kw on thier dyno, so how does that work? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/
Share on other sites

im no car expert.. but it sounds like there might be one of ya problems..

If you got like a 3" turboback exhaust it could add about 20kw or so..

153 + 20 = 173.. seems like a better result :)

im also no dyno expert either :D but ya tuning people were probably just giving you some story to make ya happy with the result....

also when you do get the exhaust they will have to retune the PFC again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1779498
Share on other sites

Morgs is correct, differnt dyno's read differntly and dynolog dyno do read lower than others, but whos to say that the dynolog dyno is incorrect, could it be that the dynodynamics dyno is measuring way to high?....all i can say is continue to use the same dyno every time so you can see the difference in mods regardless of what the total Hp is in relation to others

Edited by Zenith
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780085
Share on other sites

153 with a stock exhaust is as much as you can expect.

first person ive heard also thats done a PFC before exhaust

I did DFA, SITC and IEBC before the exhaust on the Stagea, does that count?

33% power increase with zero mechanical mods.

:blink: cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780159
Share on other sites

my mechanic uses dynolog and with a power fc, 13psi, exhaust, pod, fmic i got 170rwkw which i know most guys are usually a tad over the 200rwkw on a normal dyno dynamics in shoot out mode, also my mechanic agreed with me that his reads alot lower and mainly uses it as a tuning tool not really to see how hi figures he can get,

then again ive heard of some dyno dynamics figures that are rediculously high, like 1 guy claiming to have 215rwkw on 10psi, fmic, power fc, exhaust and pod, i just cant see that happenin

yer stick to the same dyno for more consistent records

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780167
Share on other sites

thanks for all the feedback.

i got pfc before exhaust coz i was running very rich and getting bad fuel economy, was worried i might have a problem but tune fixed everything :) ; also once i get exhaust etc its a hourly rate for dyno tune, so no $500 fee everytime i want a tune :P

i didnt get a dyno run before pfc install, only before pfc tune amd i went from 138rwkw to 153rwkw and from 210Nm min 420Nm max torque to 302 Nm min 435Nm max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780785
Share on other sites

Does it really matter unless you are a dyno queen?. Dyno shymo.When i last looked,a dyno is a tuning tool.If you go to the same dyno with the same(honest) tuner and correction factors are correct and there is no "X" factor input,who cares.Provided it reads consistently,it is a excellent tuning tool.However a whole industry has been built around the "my dad is tougher than yours and my shitter made more Kilowatts than yours".Hey book it in,lean it out,bang some timing in and look at the top end power increase (and overlay it over original power run graph).and they cant get the cash out fast enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1787865
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok. Can anyone out there shed some light on this dyno sheet.

300.jpg

Looking at the IT and AT is it fair to assume the numbers are a bit higher then what the thing would make on an engine dyno?

I tend to think, they have done a few runs at different boost levels, and the inlet temos could be getting up there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906283
Share on other sites

i made 35 rwkw's changing my exhaust

i believe my second exhaust (blitz jobby) was probably as restrictive, if not more than the stocko unit

when i ditched it for a 3" straight through exhaust (and retune, which wasnt cheap) power reading was much better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906562
Share on other sites

The intake temp probe just sits next to the air filter, so assuming it was a bonnet up run i wouldn't expect more than about 10 degrees different even with an unenclosed pod no matter the time on the dyno.

However, if the bonnet was down it is probably a legitimate power figure for an unenclosed pod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906563
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...