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Step 1:

Tug at bottom of back seat, unltil two loops about 20cm in either side from the door unclick. If they don't come out easily use a crow bar next to the hook to lever it out. Don't worry, if you snap em you can use a hook/clip out of any R32 or R33 back seat (2 or 4 door) as they are the same. Although they are hard to snap as they are built tough enough to withstand crashes n shit.

cef_rear_spkr_01.jpg

Step 2:

Undo two bolts holding a respective clips at the base of the backrest of the backseat.

cef_rear_spkr_02.jpg

Step 3:

Pull down the center console if you have one, then pull off the bottom plastic trimming (held in with a plastic plug that can be levered out with a screwdriver). Under this there should be two bolts as well holding down a metal bracket. Undo these bolts.

cef_rear_spkr_03.jpg

Step 4:

Now the backrest is unbolted, the only thing holding it in is three hooks near the top of the backrest. Push the backrest upward to unhinge the seat from the hooks. Make sure the hooks aren't bent after you've removed them as they can make putting it back in a pain in the arse.

cef_rear_spkr_04.jpg

Step 5:

Get in the boot and undo the little cips that hold the parcel shelf down. There should be two types of clips little one way clips and bigger click in clips. You only need to undo the one way ones by squeezing them with a pair of long nose pliers and pushing the one way toothed piece back into the hole with a small phillips screwdriver. There's about 6 of these you need to do, 3 around each speaker.

Step 6:

Get into the back of the car, and gently work your hand under the parcel shelf cover, slowly unclick the bigger clips and once they're all done you should be able to lift it out.

cef_rear_spkr_05.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_06.jpg

Step 7:

Remove the existing speakers, use 8mm sockets. Unclip the speakers from their plugs. Leave the OEM wiring as it is and simply remove only the speakers.

cef_rear_spkr_07.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_08.jpg

Step 8:

Unsolder the OEM plug from the speaker, its really easy to do. Bend the clip off the speaker (as you won't be needing that one any more) and release the small plastic tab with two metal pins.

cef_rear_spkr_09.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_10.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_11.jpg

Step 9:

Solder the plastic tab with the pins to the new pair of speakers, taking care to wire positive to the positive terminal of the board. Cover with electrical insulation tape if you want to be extra protective.

cef_rear_spkr_12.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_13.jpg

Step 10:

If you use a pair of 6.5" speakers, they should line up perfectly with the existing holes in the parcel shelf. Use the existing screws to reattach the new speakers after plugging the OEM wiring into the pins.

cef_rear_spkr_14.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_15.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_16.jpg

If you have two way coaxials (the one I'm using is the Response 2 Way Kevlar Cone Coaxials sold by Jaycar) make sure the tweeters point towards the front of the cabin. If you are using the factory covers over them, then make sure they point to the back.

cef_rear_spkr_17.jpg

Step 11:

Redo dis-assembly in reverse to get your car back to normal

cef_rear_spkr_18.jpg

And you're done. Total time taken was about two hours, to undo the seats, the parcel shelf, unsolder the tabs, resolder them onto the new speakers, mount the speakers, and reassemble. That was because I went in blind, I'm sure it'll be quicker if you read this first :blink:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Um dobermann read his last sentence.....

QUOTE

"I'll put up pics of each step on Wed, when I get back to melb and my card reader. "

I too wouldn;t mind seeing pics as i may stripped most of the rear out of my ceffie but was too lazy to look into removing parcel shelf!

Now i know its easy as pie!

Ta u funkymonkey :rofl:

Ando

  • 10 months later...

1.) you push on the front of the lower back seat with your knee awkwardly which makes it very easy to get the back seat out :woot: , ill put a pic up if you want

step 3) for peeps who dont often pull plastic plugs, id suggest using needle nose pliers because youll have more chance of not breaking the plug

33sedan.) 33 rear seats (i have a 4 door too) have 2 bolts at the bottom of the lower rear seat (10mm head in memory) and the same for the upper rear seat, otherwise theyre pretty much the same :)

also: i can take pics of a step by step of installing a head unit and 6x9s if anyone is interested?, and a how to make door pods for 6in front speakers? :woot:

The rear seat looks just like the r33 rear seat. U reckon should be exactly the same?

i know for a fact that R32 rear seats and Cefiro rear seat are the same, but the R32 seats arent made to fold down. In regards to R33 i know that a Rear R32 GTR seat will not fit in a R33 so im assuming that an R33 seat wont fit in a cefiro... if you understand how i put that together :P

Funky: why go through the trouble of retaining the original connectors.. why not just cut the wires and crimp on new but connectors thats what i did, i thought it to be easier... and more time consuming, is there a reason for your madness?

  • 2 weeks later...

to crimp it onto the factory wires i'd have had to sit in the boot and f**k around. The speakers cost about $60, so the factory connectors weren't gonna really affect the quality.

Using the factory connectors I could just plug and unplug em as I wished, and not have to mess around much in the boot.... plus I could also swap them into any other nissan made around the same time :D

it all came down to a case of CBF.

yup to each his own i guess... i actually think the inside of the ceffy boot is rather comfortable... big and spacious.. close the lid and ill fall asleep... haha

well good job anyways

Step 4:

Now the backrest is unbolted, the only thing holding it in is three hooks near the top of the backrest. Push the backrest upward to unhinge the seat from the hooks. Make sure the hooks aren't bent after you've removed them as they can make putting it back in a pain in the arse.

cef_rear_spkr_04.jpg

I just realised that there should be a metal hook in the center - mine only has two [left and right]... no wonder my seat rattles and squeaks...

  • 6 years later...

Not sure if factory set up is the same but my car is running 5 1/2 but I am running a spacer because of the magnet so if you just get a thin speaker then you wouldn't need it.

But most after market speakers come with the spacers in the box and all you need are some self-tapping screws and a drill to install them.

Shouldn't be that hard.

If not make your own with a template out of cardboard and then transfer it to some MDF board, then cut it out.

You then have a custom made speaker mount for the doors.

Hope this helps you in some way.

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