Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The SC's capa sell are pretty inificient and work in much the same way as a turbo..

the way you want to go, is a twin screw setup, the twin screw units themselves are only $2500 from harrop, the cost is getting them mounted up, as you'll need a custom bracket setup..

Theres an s13 race car thats based out perth here with one, that makes over 400 at the treads with it, thats using a 2.3l unit, as well as there being an xr6 with a 2.3l unit bolted to the side, which is making over 600hp at the wheels, and cuts low 10's at the drags, think its down to 10.2 now, you can get a 3.3l unit which i imagine will make more than enough power for anyones demands here, and be totally linear in its power delivery..

the catch is it just takes moeny to develop a mounting kit, and also time and development to ensure it all functions as its meant to..

exactly, while you can get easier power from a turbo setup, a screw charger will give you better drivability and instant torque! you dont get that mad rush, more of a feeling of increased displacement. Excellent balance next to most of the big power turbo setups.

would like to see it done for something different!

Turbos are quick, cheap and easy. If you want a serious amount of power though, it will most likely end up a laggy pig.

Superchargers are complicated and expensive, similar top end power but a MOUNTAIN of torque and no lag. You get what you pay for.

So many guys compare a $ 300 secondhand Toyota blower to a beautiful $ 1500 ball bearing turbo, and say the blower is crap. They are right.

Now take a smokey old $ 300 secondhand turbo off a 1.5 litre engine, and compare it to a $3000 screw blower that can make 500 Hp. That proves turbos are all rubbish, right ?

If you are going to compare turbos to superchargers, start with a similar budget. The more you spend, the better it will be, no matter which you decide.

I have owned both, and like both, but for different reasons.

Anyone that thinks superchargers don't make power should realise that ALL the fastest drag race classes run superchargers.

So where are the four second top fuel turbo cars ? If it could be done, people would be doing it, and there would be new classes started for really fast turbo cars.

Edited by Warpspeed

Or you could get an Opcon Autorotor. They are available over the counter in Melbourne.

The largest has a rated flow of around 29 cubic metres of air per minute, that is 1,024 CFM, around 680 horsepower worth of air. Is that enough ?

http://www.hi-flow.com/HP7Super.htm

They also provide full boost over about a 10:1 engine speed range. How about 35 psi boost from 900 rpm to 9,000 Rpm.

Show me a turbo that is fully spooled at 900 Rpm, and does not run out of flow at 9,000 Rpm. Absolutely no contest......

Edited by Warpspeed
So where are the four second top fuel turbo cars ?  If it could be done, people would be doing it, and there would be new classes started for really fast turbo cars.

I think they spat the turbos out.

You CANT put a turbo on a top fueler. moot point. end of story.

There are two types of supercharger, and a fixed displacement type will provide boost from nowhere, but is not as efficient at top end.

Then there is the compressor bladed supercharger - same as a turbo, except that boost is proportional to rpm, not exhaust. There *is* lag, but its always the same. no boost creep, and no problems with short ramp settings on dynos

Either way, supercharger have a higher cost (in kilowatts) to run than an equivalent turbo.

better or worse? What are you after?

a supercharger (screw type) IS on my wish list... but I'm keeping the turbo.

So where are the four second top fuel turbo cars ? If it could be done, people would be doing it, and there would be new classes started for really fast turbo cars.

on the other side u have PANIC that can get from start to finish in about 5-4 secs but takes 5-4 secs to spool up :D

what about the extra heat from supercharging the intake ?

You can intercool it still, like a normal turbo setup..

basically most of the principles stay the same, your forcing more air in, same as a turbo, tuning is lsightly different, but instead of driving the air pump with exhaust gas, your driving it with the crank of the motor..

And as for drag cars, they only run for about a minute total, and really only 10 seconds tops on full noise, and aside from top fuellers which run on nitro, most cars run methonal, which runs a lot cooler than normal fuels do, if you take note a lot of cars runing methonal will actualy get condensation on the side of the blower/hats etc from the fuel..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
    • I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute. Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.
×
×
  • Create New...