Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The front one does make a heap of difference to corner handling. The front feels flatter (less body roll) as you go through a corner.

The rear makes less of a difference (due to it being in a different point in the suspension geometry) or something liek that :)

Worth having on the car though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1809524
Share on other sites

I liked them i have 1 front and back

back end loser when you go side ways and front takes out the body roll

i like them my self

i payed 100 for the front and 125 for the back easy to fit front but back you will need to cut the boot pannels

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1810751
Share on other sites

2 things that strut braces do are

1/ Help mantain wheel alignment by reducing strut tower flex

2/ Look good

And not necessarily in that order.

A good strut brace, that works as engineered, will work on a car with a soft chassis. Its there to stop the car's body from flexing under lateral loads, and let the suspension do its work.

On older cars it will make a noticable difference, since their chassis would be relatively weaker...even before several years of wear and tear have worked on them.

Both of my cars have had factory strut braces, so I have no idea what its like without them. But, as people have said, it had better be bolted on solidly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1811373
Share on other sites

The only way to know is try with and without through the same series of corners. It does make a difference on the front as it makes it a little more responsive to wheel inputs. there are also a number of other mods that can do this so consider it part of an overall system improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1811512
Share on other sites

i was quite sceptical when installing mine, as to if it would make any difference at all.

Front didn't make much difference (I put them on first) then a week later I put the rears on and it felt heaps better, (using for drift, tended to be alot more stable)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1812426
Share on other sites

See, I've got an R32 GTS 4 door.. standard open wheel diff.. I bought the car stock as a rock..

Added a front adjustable strut brace, you could DEFINITLY feel the difference.. the body felt alot more solid..

My flatmate then made me a box section strut brace for the rear.. again, him being an engineer and not into cars he definitly noticed the difference as did I..

I've got an open wheel diff as I said.. 90% of the time at speed it now spins both wheels.. not just a single one.. Made a huge improvement..

Next thing i'm going for is sway bars..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1813797
Share on other sites

ive got front and back on my r32 and i noticed alot of different with the body roll not sure if it was from the front or the back on put the on at the same time put you cant feel it sort of pulling or leaning out in corners i was happy with mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1815297
Share on other sites

The usual strut brace design links (RHS to LHS) the top suspension mounting points and effectively doubles the rigidity of them. By reducing the flex, this stops changes in the suspension geometry, mostly camber. The springs and stabiliser bars work exactly as they did before, so there is no reduction in roll. The improved in handling comes from helping to maintain the static wheel elignment settings when the suspension is moving and the chassis flexing.

On R32/33/34 Skylines (2 door & 4 door) and equivalent Stageas, the front strut brace actually serves to effectively link the upper control arm inner mounting points to each other (RHS to LHS). This is because the upper corntol arms are actually mounted to the inner guard (chassis). You can see this by simply looking through the front wheel arches. So a front strut brace does serve quite a usefull purpose in helping to control the suspension geometry.

On the rear (of these models) this is simply not the case, the upper control arm inner mounting mounts are mounted to the sub frame, not the chassis. Adding a rear strut brace to the chassis between the rear shock towers, doesn't help the rigidity of the sub frame. You can also confirm this for yourself by loooking through the rear wheel arch and examining the upper control arm mounting points. Then compare this to where the strut brace actually mounts. Therefore the effect of fitting a strut brace to the rear is much, much less than the front.

:D cheers :cheers:

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1815682
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...