Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my first run at Winton on these on Friday and they compare reasonably well to what they were replacing (very old/worn/heat cycled RE55s)

The old RE55s still had more outright grip and handled the heat build up over a session better but for $640 for 4 brand new tyres the RS-R's do pretty well.

Something I'm interested in is what other RS-R's users are doing with pressures.

I found that after a decent 5-7 lap stint the RS-Rs started to get greasy and I was getting a bit of rubber build up on the edge of the tread block.

I spoke with Federal before running these tyres and they suggested a cold start pressure of 36psi, a quick check of pressures when returning to the pits showed around 40-41psi in all four corners.

I didn't get a chance to experiment with different pressures as some debris on the track damaged a valve and ended my day early.

What have others found in regards to pressures they are running and how they find it.

Quick run down on the car.

S13, not much power, only 160+rwkw

-2.5 camber front, -1.5 rear

Toe is definitely out at the front at present (fixing that this week before the next track day)

-1mm toe in the rear.

damper was set on full soft as a few clocks harder up had the car getting skatey and wanting to understeer.

8/6 springs, standard bars.

Ambient temp on the day was only 13-15deg

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376924-federal-595-rs-r-pressuresgrip-etc/
Share on other sites

That's a lot of growth in pressures, you are clearly going faster than me :D

Federal called me back (awesome customer service) and we discussed my setup in more detail. He suggested dropping the pressures a touch 2-psi front to back respectively so that puts it on about where yours are.

I'll try this at the next track day the weekend after this one.

How many hot laps are you getting? what camber/toe/spring rates?

Cheers for the feedback.

no wuckas mate

over about 5 hot laps, car weighs 1200~kg, camber of about -3 front and -1 rear. toe is rougly 0 all round, springrates 7/5kg

rsr's didnt give fantastic feel/feedback compared to the cheaper ku36's.. felt a bit funny at the limit, not much warning that you were about to go beyond it. but about 1sec quicker so cant complain too much.

  • 2 weeks later...

That's much MUCH higher than I run on an R33 GTR... I run 28-29psi cold and 35-37psi hot... The tyes start to go off after about 3 - 4 laps at Phillip Island and so I just figured they were too hot...

I'll trying running them higher but I reckon they will go off faster - I'll report back soon :)

I'm dropping mine for this Saturday, will be trying a cold start pressures a few PSI lower than before. Will be taking my good gauge and my compressor so I can adjust as necessary.

I've had an alignment done as well so this might help a bit also.

It's just a starting point Benny. You don't just rock up at the track with no idea of what pressures are in the tyres to start with. For those of us without proper tyre gear, like a pyrometer, we need a reference point of some sort.

I know that my car, given a certain ambient temp range, will increase tyre pressures around 4 psi from its cold start pressure, But that's just coming back into the pits after a session, and checking temps quickly. Which is affected by how much cooling down I did before coming in etc. In actual fact it could be 4-8psi on track which I'd never know without having some of those fancy pants wireless valve cap type sensors. Or coming straight in after a hot lap to a waiting mate with a pyrometer at pit entry to check temps.

So, we need to start somewhere and we're not exactly racing for pink slips here :D

Yeah I understand that, BUT.....

Set them cold approx 5psi less than your hot temp.

Go out for your first session, heat them and do some laps but don't over-cook them.

Come back into the pits, bleed them back to your desired hot pressure. Then simply check pressures at the end of each session just to make mild adjustments as you see fit.

I don't use pyros mate, I'm not altering camber etc at the track :)

When I ask folks what pressures they're running, and they reply with "xx psi COLD", I slowly back away. lol

Really! lol. Ok :)

I would have thought that for someone concerned about the cost of rubber, and therefore, looking after them as best you could, checking pressures often would be a given.......

I know I absolutely try to get the most from tyre's life, coz they're farking expensive! I check my tyre pressures more than look at my temp or fuel gauge, because a set of rubber is dearer than a new engine :)

Edited by Marlin

Completely agree!

I didn't say I did not check pressures, I said I didn't want to do it every session because I'm lazy. I keep tabs on the temp and the weather and if the tyres go off sooner or later I check them again when I return. This is why I know how much my pressures come up and why I'd had chats with Federal about it.

At the moment, I'm trying to find the right pressure to keep them on for longer and give me max gripz

considering how cheap TPMS kits are these days (around $250 will get you a set of 4 wireless sensors and a display unit) they are worth looking at for anyone half serious about cutting good times. there are also tireliefs. they are a pressure release valve. you set them on the bench for your desired hot pressure. fit them to your tyre valves (or drill a hole in the wheel rim and fit them there) and on track as your pressure grows when it hits the desired pressure the valve will let any excess pressure escape to keep them at your desired set pressure throughout the session. you can even just set your tyres straight away to your desired 'hot' pressure and the tireliefs will start bleeding pressure as the tyre heats. they are a cool idea.

That's awesome. If I ever have a car that goes beyond club level hacking I'll certainly consider that sort if thing.

The S13 is just a fun hack to tide me over until I've paid off enough on the house to warrant another GT-R.

I used these tyres yesterday on EC. They produced great grip for the first three sessions but the last two the rear slide a bit more.

Still I highly recommend them for road and track.

IMG_1377.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...