Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det Breaking Up Past 3500Rpm, Pig Rich.


rx-line
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have been losing my shit while my car is in the paint booth with the weight of it not running right. Currently the car is running pig rich in the 10 afrs with a high idle and is spooling the turbo and stuttering past 3500rpm in the neutral position. It almost sounds like anti lag.

Having discovered this I since checked the TPS and replaced the MAF sensor, the new-used OEM MAF cleaned up the idle a bit and the car no longer died after any amount of throttle but the two-step action is still present. I have a new temp sensor on order, the only other thing that comes to mind is the Oxygen sensor but I cannot see how either would effect it so greatly.

Surely there are others who have overcome this, as I have read about others with the same propblem but with no posted fix,

RX,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whilst Ben is probably right.........you would be well advised to put the useful bits of information in your post that would actually help people to understand your problem. Things like, what ECU, what ignition, has it been tuned, what were the AFRs under load when it was tuned? etc etc. For example, did you know that RB20s tend to run 10:1 AFRs when teh boost is turned up on the stock ECU anyway?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that would help, it has a mines ecu, fmic, custom plenum, custom charge piping, bov, fpr etc. Stock ignition

It ran 12's afr's when I first installed the wideband whilst still running the oem o2 sensor. It always ran fine with a slightly high idle as my cold start and iacv share the same vaccum line. And it ran fine, after working on the body for a couple months I started it one day to it going in and out of rich and normal afrs. And now it will not pull itself out of being pig rich and 15 psi vaccum at idle.

Seems to me like it's not a boost leak as it shudders before it builds any amount of boost. Seems like it's running rich with on a retarded map.

Rx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are a funny crowd, I've ran the car with no charge piping and it revs through the range fine whilst being pig rich, I'll figure it out sooner or later and post what the actual problem is. Thanks for the help I guess.

RX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are a funny crowd, I've ran the car with no charge piping and it revs through the range fine whilst being pig rich, I'll figure it out sooner or later and post what the actual problem is. Thanks for the help I guess.

RX

Your a funny guy, removing the intercooler pipework and refitting it without then pressure testing it.

When you find a boost leak be sure to report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far I've checked the ecu and have got the 55 "all good", tightened all the silicone couplers for the charge piping but nothing yet, Thinking of loosening the BOV a bit, changing the fuel and changing the oil as there is a slight gas odour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far I've checked the ecu and have got the 55 "all good", tightened all the silicone couplers for the charge piping but nothing yet, Thinking of loosening the BOV a bit, changing the fuel and changing the oil as there is a slight gas odour.

How will loosening the bov or an oil change help at all?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How will loosening the bov or an oil change help at all?

Changes in vacuum? and oil filled with fuel can create an increased liquid amount could create blowby?

Anyhow I found that the red wire on the oxygen sensor was broken and repaired it, after the repair and having the car warmed up allowed my car to regain proper AFR's and rid itself of the choppy revs. It's quite funny that you were so sure of a boost leak that you went out of your over confident simpleton ways just to prove what you thought was a valid point!

To anyone reading this thread with similar problems besides this stagea fanatic , I would definitely recommend you check your o2 sensor with a multimeter.

BT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback.

In 90 percent of cases it is a boost leak. It is so easy to check for it should be checked anytime you touch the pipework.

Your suggestion of adjust bov and oil change is far crazier.

So is your car actually fixed? Or just idles nicer now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope I drove it and It keeps proper AFR's whilst under load as well, I know neutrul rev's aren't the best indicator of problems and correct afr's but it worked well as a baseline as I knew where it should be. It runs rich in cold start and then you can hear a noticeable change in idle and then it run's 12's afr's after the O2 was fixed. Run's better than ever.

If your oil level is above normal and contains fuel, I would assume you will get blow by which could cause numerous problems no? Explain to me how this would not effect things please, rather than saying how would that work. I don't attest to knowing everything but I sure won't take your advice without explanation. I figured it was a good idea to change anyhow. I did not once say it was the problem but I new there was a chance it'd help.

Fixing the O2 sure does change afr's, I know for a fact it sends a reading to the o2 and at .5v would be supposed proper afr's at idle. I wouldn't think the ecu would disregard this at idle.

RX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd have to be burning an absolute shitload of oil for it to be a problem. In that case you've got other issues to look forward to. Yes oil collects blowby gasses but it is a very small portion of the oil itself and even less would make it back into the cylinder.

The thing is that the ECU doesn't even reference the O2 sensor at idle or at decent throttle. The ECU completely ignores what the O2 sensor says unless you're cruising at light throttle off boost. Soon as You've got some boost it goes back to open-loop meaning no correction based on the O2 sensor.

How did you decide that your AFR's are in the 12's again? Do you have an aftermarket wideband?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...