Predator1

I dont have that data sorry. I have IAT's post FMIC by the inlet. I've attached a video that outlines the ECU logs during a pull on high boost at around 10pm. I also heard the same re Plazmaman!! A bit disappointing because Hypertune f**kED me around for a f**kING year for my FMIC, and ended up costing me just under 3k. I'll never f**king deal with those dream boats again from Hypertune. Absolute f**king dream boats! They almost doubled the cost of their 'special heat reflective' coating. Assf**king cumgobblers. Rant over. What I dont understand is why my IAT's are so high.. if my turbo is out of puff, then why is my fkn IAT's sky rocketing after every pull? IMG_4834.MOV EDIT - You can also see my eMAP too mapped against RPM etc. Peak turbine speed is 103k too. I think max rated for the 9180 is 108k?

Nice man. Can I ask about your head? What mods etc? I hit a fkn brick wall on my setup, so keen to hear others running EFR on rb30's.

When will yours be running? Keen to hear how your 9280 turns out.

Thanks man. Good to hear other people talking about interchillers. I actually emailed them a few times about doing one for me. I was super keen but I ran out of time as I had to leave countr(car is in long term storage now). Im running a hypertune g2 110mm core which i would have HOPED be enough, but it could be the turbo itself. I have heard the Plazmaman is supposed to be better, but then, I ran out of time. I dont have a CAI, I run a filter directly behind the Motive headlight with duct. I really dont want to change my turbo as i love the response of the turbo... but at the same time, I wanted 1000hp *flamesuit on*

Yes this is exactly my point. I understand this. Here I was thinking it might do 1000 with all the other supporting mods I had.. I actually thought it would make that power as it wouldnt need as much boost, but thats the issue I guess, It cant flow enough air to make more boost! Wish I knew this before! EDIT - I dont have the final plot. She spat out i think 494 on 21, and 530~ on 23-24. Attached my dyno sheets.

Thanks, be keen to see what you come up with. I did plot this ages ago, IIRC it was around .62 on the map with a PR of around 2.6/2.7 (24psi). I understand that the turbo is a big limiting factor partly due to my head. Im trying to understand whether playing with the cam timing would have helped out at all. Maybe even make the same power at a lower boost level or something.

Yes from memory. I cant remember how much timing he added up top but it wasnt much at all.

This is interesting... I was wondering why my setup wasnt making anymore boost. Maybe this related maybe not. I was looking at some of my pics and noticed the cam gears were at ZERO for both intake and exhaust. My setup is BNR32 with a built 3.2, Hypertune FMIC bla bla, 9180 with 1.05 on a CNC head with 278/286 cams. On the dyno, we couldnt make anymore then 23-24psi. turbine speed was around 105k, and my EMAP ratio was higher, meaning turbine was being choked. How would dialling in my cams change my power curve? It made only 530~awkw on around 23-24psi on pump. The turbo is rated to 900 theoratical, but Im only at around 800~ at the fly. Whenever he tried to add more boost, the fkn IAT would sky rocket.. even at 24psi, the IAT would be around 60~ by the end of the dyno pull. The tuner said he would check the cams but i guess he didnt, so im kind of annoyed... but the low down torque of this setup is nuts.

Friends garage. Off on axle stands for about a year till i can take it to japan.

Regardless of what oiling system you use, the key is to setup limits and cuts based on oil pressure. I have tonnes of cuts and limits on mine. Duncan's advise is spot on. You dont need dry sump for 800hp. If you are really paranoid, then add Accusump or some sort of oil accumulator to the mix.

Anyone used fogging oil on their turbo charged cars for storage? Mines going in storage for a while, and thinking of doing this, but not sure as i have a umm 9180 and hyptertune intercooler, so not sure whether it would be a swiming pool in there?

Thanks! Thats actually the plan to have it on stands too. Fresh service before I leave with new oils/coolant all over too(even though I just changed it).

I'm the opposite, I have to find any excuse to drive mine.. I'm going away very soon so she goes in storage for a year!

As I said, I was never worried about how high my ECT peaked.. but moreso how fast it creeped. Need to do more testing to conclusively say its a closed book.

100%. Mines already shielded on the side, all the way from the ABS down to the rail, plus i have heat reflective tape all over the body by the hot side inc firewall.

Its been a while, but after 4 months, my GrA Reimax waterpump has been installed. I also replaced the GKTech fan with a new OEM R32 Fan. Everything else is the way it was prior. The reason I went all out was to try fix my annoying(picky) ECT creeping up at idle. It def ran cooler. I noticed that the temps would come down ALOT quicker. Cruising temps on the motorway is around 72-74 for ECT, same as my oil. I have seen the temps down to 67 in the arvo a few times while driving too(its summer time here too). Has the waterpump made a difference? Yes I think so. The other day, I took it for a drive on a HOT day(27-28). Felt so much hotter, plus I purposely drove through lots of traffic. Max ECT was 82. My ECT temps at idle we ALOT more stable. Prior, it would creep from say 78 through to 82~ in say under 2 mins, and my 2200CFM AC Fan would come on at 85 which would struggle to bring it back down. Now, the fan doesnt come on. Mind you, I now run a sequential box, and have heat wrapped my downpipe soo..I had a habit of coasting it in neutral everytime(Never used engine braking), but now I have to stay in gear and engine brake all the time which will aid in temps as there's no spark when you decel in gear. Would it have made the same difference without the box and the heat wrapping? I think it would have. It was my idle temps that was the issue for me, and that seems to be much better(Might be too early to say its fixed).

I was getting concerned smelling resin from my cf bonnet, so I put a beanie on my big single, I noticed MUCH lower engine bay temps. No more resin smells. I also noticed slightly higher ECT/Oil temps on average - By around 2-3 degrees maybe, but I do run an oil cooler so thats no issues at all. I've just heat wrapped my downpipe and its improved underbonnet temps even further.

I did that. Too much effort. Had to boot up windows, launch the app, etc etc etc.

I had the Powertune Digital display for ages. It was absolutely awesome. The support was absolutely fkn amazing. I was able to do a remote session with them on a sunday arvo to diagnose/fix a small issue(I'm very picky). I jumped onto the IC7 train and onsold the display to a close mate who absolutely loves it as well. You can customize everything and anything, unlike the IC7. I personally think, that the only advantage the IC7 has is boot up speed. My only gripe with the Powertune dash was the bootup time of around 13-15 seconds(compared to around 6-8 for the IC7). Everything else, the powertune dash does it better. I designed my own R34 MFD style dash as well as many others. If you're good with computers/graphics then get the powertune dash, end of story. Regarding the bootup speed, the newer powertune dashes are much quicker(Not sure how fast). I do regret selling my dash. I'm pondering selling my IC7 and buying a new powertune dash.

1.05

EFR All Day for response. I have a 9180 on mine. The response is pretty damn amazing.

replace it with an rb30 and crank 30psi till it breaks

I second this 100%. I replaced the stock pumps in my R33 GTST and my R32 GTR. It was LITERALLY a 5 min job in both occasions. Wasted a box of beers, as we only took like 3 sips

Yep, happened to my stock box too. Easy fix though, replace with an Albins.. you can then run a box cooler which wont heat your feet up as much.

I also pondered the same when ordering, but couldnt be bothered, so went iron. Mines a 9180, and its not really heavy either.