Predator1

Holy smokes. I'd hate to be the big end bearings on that! 800+Nm under 4k!

Agreed 100%. I am thinking of the 9280, but in the meantime I'll see if I can crack 900w on e85.. I seriously doubt it, but I'll find out very soon. I'm hoping the extra cubes and headwork will get me that magic number at the same or similar boost. I'd be happy if i could run higher boost as long as my IAT and EMAP's don't skyrocket.

Thread reminds me of my journey... dropped my 26 to swap bearings and upgrade sump, ended up with a 3.2 with big single bla bla bla.

So I just got my waterpump, and externally it looks stock, but the blades seem to be pretty big. Here are some pics. I will go measure/compare this weekend and put more pics up, as I havent found any other mention of this pump being used ever, soo might come in handy. Must say, it feels rather heavy/beefy. The bearings are replaceable too, so theoretically you could use this pump for a LONG time.

For 850whp, and If you have extensive headwork, then the 9180 probably wont cut it, or it might be borderline. Remember the 9180 is rated to 900hp only. I'm on around 750whp on around 25psi only, mind you, the tune isnt dialled in as it was a 'tidy up' tune only, however I was having IAT issues, so suspect turbo is being choked. I have a wheel speed sensor and EMAP going in along with other bits and pieces so be interesting to see how fast its spinning and how much headroom left.

I happen to have the same combo but with an Albins that is getting swapped now. Have a look at my sig/profile. I went with the 1.05? housing too. I think this turbo's spot on if you want response and decent top end.

How was your idle ect temps? My oil temps are super stable.

Right, so I've decided to bite the bullet and buy the Reimax Gr.A waterpump.. not cheap but outflows any other waterpump I can find, inc ewp's. This thing flows 250L compared to 160 stock. https://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-gr-a-high-flow-water-pump-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html I'm sure that the waterpump that I have must have 6 blades(or is an N1 pump), as at low speed/idle my temps aren't as good as it should. This is on my built 3.2. Does anyone know how the flow rates are measured? ie at what RPM?

100%. You wont get much change from 5k if you want to pull a motor out to refresh the bottom end bearings. Whilst the parts may not cost much, its usually everything else surrounding it. Not to mention time.

20psi on a 26 by 3500 is good I thought?

Hows your oil temps? Grout filling will bring up your oil temps. And agreed, I'd rather sleeve then go billet. You need pretty big oil pressures for billet.

Wait what? Were you driving around with the main crank pulley bolt loose!?!?

I had a similar thing happen once. Suspect it was the main pulley cranked up a bit tight for me as it took us nearly 1/2 day to just crack the pulley bolt open.

I’m in the same boat. Waiting for my new setup to be installed. I’ve heard that if the drive shaft isn’t balanced properly it’s more prone to nvh. which drive shaft did you get?

pretty sure you could stick a 70hp outboard to that!

Cool thanks. I think what I'll do is replace the pulley, and while I'm there, I'll stick some foam in while the radiator is out. Where did you get the billet pulley from? Maybe I'll just buy that.

Hey man, I replaced the stock AC fan with a 1000cfm SPAL slim unit(There aren't many with this spec from SPAL). I used the cable ties and tabs to mount it. Simple as. Took like 5 mins - Just have to keep an eye on the wiring - I used the stock wiring with that fan as it drew only i think 10~amps. I have since replaced it with a 2100cfm Maradyne 14inch. This is a beast. Just fits on the AC condenser. Had to run new wires as it draws ~17 amps.

I don't have AC as I need to run new lines(Manifold doesn't clear). The condenser and pump are in, just needs new lines and gassed up. I have tried another hub - The original hub that I had had leaked and wasn't locking up. I can def hear the fan roaring when I rev it in traffic. I've also tested this - As soon as the engine is turned off, the fan stops spinning, indicating its 'locked up'. The shroud is securely screwed into the radiator - I guess what I could do is put some foal sealant around the edges of the shroud, but on my old 26 setup, I had the identical setup, and no issues at all. Its only with my new motor. As you can imagine, I have almost tried everything here. This is the fan that I run for my AC: https://thermofans.com.au/products/ef8916 Its pretty damn beefy. When its on, I can see and feel the hot air by the windscreen with the bonnet closed. Pretty damn loud too.

Hey, Yeah I have tried a few things. My issue is - At idle, its very hard to get a stable temp. With a 1000cfm SPAL AC fan, which was set to come on at 94, it wouldn't be able to control at all. In traffic, it would regularly go over 100. I tried lowering it to 88, which didnt help at all, even 80. My setup below: 3.2 Nitto - Block isn't grout filled or anything ATI 1000hp kit with the water pump pulley(IIRC its 127~mm diameter) Trust Radiator before, currently running 44~mm KoyoRad Stock shroud Nismo thermostat(replaced it with another brand new Nismo) - Both of them open at the same temp(Tested it in a boiling pot) Upgraded to 2500~ Maradyne 14inch AC fan with new wiring etc. Greddy Radiator breather tank GKTech Radiator Fan(Have tried stock fan as well but its the same, doesn't change temps Carbon fiber cooling panel(doesn't make a difference if taken off) Currently its set to 83 degrees. The new Maradyne AC fan does help, but in a stinking hot summer day here in NZ(26~) it still has a hard time, as the temps do creep up slowly. I've spoken to the engine builder who doesn't quite remember, but he says he usually uses RB30 water pumps. So that's essentially my cooling setup and my situation. Its winter here now, so I dont drive her much. I should say, during summer, my cruising temps on the motorways around 76 ECT and 74~ oil. I do have a turbo beanie which has raised my oil and ECT temps by 1-2 degrees average, however the issues at idle still remain. It used to be much worse without the beanie. Now my engine bay is much more cooler - Except for this lingering issue as you can see.

Ah bugger. I suspect I have an N1 pump. No way to confirm. Could you please tell me where you got the VG30 billet wp pulley from? I'm keen to buy one to help speed up my wp to see if that makes a diff to my idle temps.

If you're looking at replacing, perhaps its worth considering the Bosch combined sensor instead, as it reads temp as well. I run 3 of those. 5 wires each. Food for thought.

Ok guys lets not de-rail this thread. I appreciate all feedback. I'm not about to over-speed my turbo, esp after all the money I've thrown in this thing. I will report back once I have my box in, along with the speed sensor amongst others. Keen to hear about the additional power it makes with a compressor upgrade though. I've asked a few places for prices, so will update once I hear back re. Thanks all. Edit - So one of them just called me back advising that BW dont sell the compressor wheels seperately, soo. @hyper-gear How would I source a 9280 compressor wheel, plus, will the 9180 compressor housing physically fit the wheel, I assume it will need some additional clearance?

Sorry to dig up again - I think I have an N1 pump. Is there anyway of telling from the outside?? I'm having the same issues.

I just called a few local spots here and they said they dont have a listing for the wheels, just the supercores and housings? How would I go abouts sourcing just the compressor wheel?

Mind if I ask how much work it was to swap the wheels? also, what sort of power did you make on 98/e85?