Predator1

Hah, I run a IC7, and monitor my temps IRT. I run a 19 row oil cooler so it takes a while to come up, about 20 mins of street driving in summer time. I baby the car till the temps come up. Coolant temps around 66 degrees by then(Nismo thermostat). But I cant flat shift till an hour of driving as my box needs to be around 67!!! I run a gearbox cooler behind the rear diff... Id be lucky to see 1500ks before I drop my oil(pump tune only for now).

I'm guessing this is so your oil temps come up? Or is it coolant temps as well? Do you run oil coolers? What temps do you start driving yours at, and what grade oil?

EFR9180 hands down.. You're welcome.

What questions? In your last post you mentioned assumptions. At no point did you have any questions, well, apart from what fuel, which is pump. Actually dont worry about it. Thanks anyway.

This is excellent Lith, thank you for your informative response. I guess you've just cemented all the claims very well. There's no real way to make more power out of my setup. I know someone else that also runs the same setup on his R(1.45) and he had similar power curves in the past. He just had his retuned recently so will see how his went. Mine feels laggy in first, but then, its pretty long as it taps out at 100~ in first. Do you think its worth swapping the compressor wheel to a 9280? I heard on some thread that this could be done, but I'm not sure? If not, how much extra do you think the 9280(either same or 1.45) will give?

Nice! Pics? When you get a chance, post up some measurements please?

I WAS one of the horror stories. I had fitment issues for the front adapters. Rear was ok, just needed the dust shield to be trimmed as needed. I exchanged lengthy emails and even spoke to George and Greg over the phone. They paid for some of the work required to make my adapters fit. I also stuck bigger brake lines in the back as I'm a picky SOB, but once the brakes were fitted it worked like a charm. Didnt get time to push the brakes.. Only did a semi track day in the rain but had no issues pulling up from around 200.

🤢

imho, aftermarket brakes to me dictate that the car has alot of power(Not all the time). I used to get heaps of guys who look twice at my brake setup at the lights, and then ask what sort of power im running. OP - Check out Brakes Direct. I run their full kit on my car and the brakes are fkn amazing.. plus, I get no squeal at all.

Was waiting for this

Sure, you will find lots of pics of R33 GT-R's... where they belong, on a GTR, not on a wanabe GTR.

Check your diff bushes. Happened to me.. heard a thud when taking off, or when shifting.

I just stock piled up on popcorn. I'm waiting patiently, but impatiently!

I vote for a new sticky to steer SAU'ers away from Hyperf**kINGSHITTune.. at least that way their builds wont be waiting for Pete Griffin to pull his finger out of his vag and do some fkn work.

haha i would If I was in the same country as my car

Yeah you guys are right. Dont get me wrong, she pulls nicely in any gear at any speed, even with the super long gearing on my sequential. I love the power delivery and shes pretty scary when she gets up in triple digits.. I was a bit disappointed my cams werent dialled in, therefore i was wondering what sort of figures i could potentially make if it was timed correctly. Sadly I wont be driving her for a year or so.

Pic of AFR plot attached. Sadly no EGT's. Was on the cards but kinda ran out of time, and inputs on ECU are running very thin. Thank you - I need to read up more on this.

Why am I not surprised haha. Peter is such an absolute cock. False promises after another. I was on the verge of threatening him. My advice, steer clear of them at all costs. He LOVES to take money, and once youre paid up, communications just drop and you have to literally beg for updates, where you will get grumpy short replies. Anyways, your head is similar to mine, what duration/lift? Im running 278/286 with around 10.8-11mm lift. Did they do a flow test pre/post porting? Mine flowed 300cfm post.. which is supposed to be quite a lot apparently.

Yeah! Hence why I was wondering. Looks like it should flow better then OEM/GMB style pumps. Its similar to the one I have. haha dam right about Hyperf*knshitTune. Honestly stay away from them. I should have gone with Plazmaman instead. At least they were straight up and honest when I asked them specific details. Mind if I ask what specs of your head? Feel free to pm if you want to keep it low key. Id be happy to share mine, just trying to compare setups and understand why the f**k my turbos out of puff.

How much was that WP? Just out of curiosity, what are the flow rates? I recently changed mine because Im a overly pedantic fkwit and decided to splash out on the Gr.A Reimax waterpump.. and it made a pretty good dent in the coolant temps.

Ah! Really? Hmm Okay I stand corrected then. Thank you for clearing that confusion for me. I have a full 4 inch exhaust with 60mm TurboSmart and on a 6Boost manifold. I also have a screamer setup but i dont use it as its scary loud(exits behind the front wheel). I dont run any cats, just a muffler out the back. I have a 17psi spring in there, hence why the turbo speed tails off a little. eMAP doesn't look bad? Its over 1:1 ratio. In the video, I did a 3rd pull. I stayed 100% TPS but buttoned off in 4th, hence the emap dropping off.. but 27psi for emap and 24 for mgp seems pretty high. I've tried 2 tuners. The car made the same power on both dynos. SAE it made 556 and J1 530~ on the same boost. Both tuners didn't put any timing because of the boost issues, Plus the first tuner couldn't keep the boost up in high RPM's.. this was fixed by the 2nd tuner re-doing the boost tables or something, so now my boost is pretty stable. The 2nd tuner was actually pretty helpful in trying to diagnose the issues.. He's pretty sure the turbos out of puff. We also checked for boost leaks, and smoke tests, and did spanner checks, and couldn't find a single leak. Im only using 1 silicon fitting. The rest are fkn ripoff Hyperf**kingshitTune wiggins style clamps.

I dont have that data sorry. I have IAT's post FMIC by the inlet. I've attached a video that outlines the ECU logs during a pull on high boost at around 10pm. I also heard the same re Plazmaman!! A bit disappointing because Hypertune f**kED me around for a f**kING year for my FMIC, and ended up costing me just under 3k. I'll never f**king deal with those dream boats again from Hypertune. Absolute f**king dream boats! They almost doubled the cost of their 'special heat reflective' coating. Assf**king cumgobblers. Rant over. What I dont understand is why my IAT's are so high.. if my turbo is out of puff, then why is my fkn IAT's sky rocketing after every pull? IMG_4834.MOV EDIT - You can also see my eMAP too mapped against RPM etc. Peak turbine speed is 103k too. I think max rated for the 9180 is 108k?

Nice man. Can I ask about your head? What mods etc? I hit a fkn brick wall on my setup, so keen to hear others running EFR on rb30's.

When will yours be running? Keen to hear how your 9280 turns out.

Thanks man. Good to hear other people talking about interchillers. I actually emailed them a few times about doing one for me. I was super keen but I ran out of time as I had to leave countr(car is in long term storage now). Im running a hypertune g2 110mm core which i would have HOPED be enough, but it could be the turbo itself. I have heard the Plazmaman is supposed to be better, but then, I ran out of time. I dont have a CAI, I run a filter directly behind the Motive headlight with duct. I really dont want to change my turbo as i love the response of the turbo... but at the same time, I wanted 1000hp *flamesuit on*