Lithium

Damn awesome, sounds like the stuff dreams are made of to me - having HKS build you up a street weapon. I'd probably go with the GT2835s myself but just because it'd be part of my dream, having a very "90s" Japanese build - huge HKS turbos on a big HKS motor.... I'm having a happy moment. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out even though its going to be a bit more restrained, will have some amazing power delivery As if I wasn't already in my happy place - when you say one of their drag cars, is it a customer car or are HKS still playing with their own drag projects? Care to share any more detail on this?

Interesting that (aside from Manny Cruz) the fastest stock internal RB25 and RB26 times are usually very similar. In NZ the fastest stock RB26 I know of is high 10s, vs 10.6 for the fastest stock RB25, vs ~8.9 for the fastest stock bottom end RB30 (had twin cam head).

What kind of manifold did you have with the GT35R - any chance that it was less than ideal? Do you have dyno plots or anything to back up what you're saying? Its at odds with most I have experienced and seen but if it turns out a T04Z can be some how made to be better spooling than a smaller turbo with newer design then its always worth looking at

Awesome, congrats! That will be a good mix - 1.06 might be a little bigger than I'd have gone with but she'll certainly have some top end rush Look forward to hearing how it comes out.

On the cases I have seen so far in NZ, similar to a .82a/r GT3582R and in my opinion the boost threshold on the GT35R (running a GOOD exhaust manifold and cam setup) definitely gives nothing away to them. The GT2530s seem to reach 20psi in the mid 4000rpm range, GT3582R similar (if not a little earlier). The GT2530s on Dynapacks over here seem to get from 390 to 430kw @ wheels, GT3582R... quite a bit rarer on RB26s so haven't seen the upper limit but we've seen 400kw so far, and thats not with an ideal setup. Hopefully will be able to report closer to 430kw in the new year I wouldn't bother with a GT3076R on an RB26 personally, I think if you are going to go to the effort of upgrading you may as well make good power - you'll always be wanting for more. I have never heard of something running GT-SS or N1 turbos and not at some point along the line asking "What should I got for - GT2530s/GT2860s or should I consider GT-RS" type questions. A T04Z on the other hand in my opinion is a bit too big for an RB26 used for street and if I DID want to go something like that, as DP motions towards - a GT40 based twin scroll setup would be my choice in a heartbeat. A GT3582R will definitely feel like you have a big turbo on the car, but not so much so that its a pain in the arse - they are right at the "fun" level, when they pass 4000rpm things become lots of fun. If you NEED more grunt down low, go a GT3582R or a T04Z and run an RB30 bottom end - the response and grunt from down low is insane. If you have a GT35R on an RB26 and aren't able to make it work on a track when there are people like Roy with a RWD RB20DET powered car with a "big" turbo on it eating GTRs around tight tracks, the engine/turbo set up is NOT your problem.

Its a Dynapack, one of the MOST accurate non-engine dynos. What ramp rate, correction method, dyno software type, car tranmission, tyre type, track condition etc etc etc are you assuming with your estimate?

Speedtech Motorsport do all the tuning on my car, have done great things with it and solved some real headaches with the car. Not that it will be of any use to you guys, they are in NZ - but nonetheless haha. They also tune the quickest/most powerful GTR in the world

Eek is it just me or does that Billet turbo have a very unforgiving surge line?

Sounds about consistant with the few I've seen do. A GT35R on an equivalent 2.6 seems to get 1bar by 4000rpm and 25psi around 4500rpmish - so everything seems to happen nearly 500rpm earlier on the GT35R.

Yes it is, the core is the same tech as the GT35R but the wheels are pretty much the same as an old T67. Yuck things, though work really well on 3litres - probably as much as anything as by 3litres you are getting to the point that anything which isn't completely stupid will work well.

Cheers - it was rather effortless lol, made it seem so cheap. They were 26x11.5x16s, not what I would have gone for width or type wise (already solid on the MT ET Street Radials) but someone called me that week and said he wasn't going to be racing and would like to see how mine would go with them - offer I couldn't refuse. I put them on R32 GTR rims.

Well holy crap, the problem I had is not one I expected completely. First (and only) run I lined up with the intention of giving it a real soft run to see what oil pressure/car/everything felt like. Ran tyres on 20psi, turned boost down to pretty much wastegate pressure (12psi creeps to just under 1bar), did a decent burnout and launched at 6000ish rpm with a reasonable amount of throttle and was fairly gentle on shifts etc just to get the feel for the radials/crossply combination etc. Ran a 12.8 @ 110mph with a 1.9s 60ft, but on the launch the tyres touched the guards quite convincingly. Given that I gave it a gentle (read: bogged) launch there is no way even rolling them a bit with the rudimentary tools we had around was going to give sufficient clearance for if I committed to a hard launch. DAMN damn damn, I can't believe how easy the 12.8 was given how long I've wanted to get a 12 - the damn tyres made it feel like such a huge non-event. I am really confident that if I was running a full 1bar and just gave it the welly the whole way it would have got a low 12. Oh well, parked car up and got the daily driver down for a few runs instead so the Skyline came home in one piece and I will sort out a fix for the guard bumping situation. The Honda did a 14.6 @ 95mph, looking like it had taken a wrong turn on the way to the dairy haha. Fun day

I would hope if you are sensible about it there shouldn't be any problem, I can't see it suddenly spinning in a long wheelbase stable whale thing?! I am aiming for high 12s @ 110mph though strictly speaking I guess it should be more than possible that the 12.5s mark could be cracked. Thanks for the input anyway, I'll do the first run gentle to get a feel for it and see how it goes

I believe here you don't have to have front runners, though it probably keeps things a bit more sane especially if you have a fast car. I know countless who have run crossply rear/radial front with no issue at all - drag radials have not caught on at all in NZ... which is why it has been so hard for me to sort anything out there. I intend on doing some trend setting however. Here is a vid of a mate of mine in a fairly stock S14 doing a 12 on crossply/radial mismatch:

Awesome thanks for the feedback guys Fingers crossed might have some fun times this weekend.

Hi guys, I had been intending on saving money and getting any oil control issues sorted with my ECR33 for the drag season then getting some drag radials but I have been last minute offered the use of some MT ET Streets for a drag meet this weekend, and my warrent runs out after that at which point the car will be off the road for a while doing things so could easily be the last chance to race it in quite some time. Has anyone raced their R33 GTS25ts with drag tyres without doing sump/head restrictors/breather mods? I am running 1bar of boost, stock rev range on a GT3076R on an RB25DET. All I want to do is cut a 12.xx before I take the car off the road, which is next to impossible on street tyres on the strip I race at. Is it likely to be suicide trying sticky tyres - even with highish pressure (for cross plys) to stop it being too severe on launch that I have problems, or have people done this without issues? I am always watching the oil pressure gauge/light/everything like a hawk when I race so I'd notice if there is any issue straight away, but its worth knowing how stupid or not worth worrying about doing this would be. Any input would be greatly appreciated Cheers, Dan.

As I said on the GTR UK forum, GT3071R I reckon is a good match for the power you are after. Here is a dyno plot for a chap I know ofs 4AGTE MR2 (running cams) with a .63a/r GT3071R:

So far I get the feeling 2JZGTEs do - the most powerful ones in the world have surpassed 2000hp. Assuming a 3.4litre 2JZGTE makes 2000hp, thats 588hp/litre. To match that, a 2.8litre RB would need to make near 1650hp which is more powerful than I have heard confirmation of any RB making in the world. Hell, even an RB20DET would need to make almost 1200hp to match that kind of effort. Awwwweeesome, looking forward to hearing final numbers and some 1/4 mile explots. Good luck with the rest of it

YES!!! Heaps of people have done this kind of thing. Supras and "GTS" Skylines have been doing it with success for years, its the first things lots of Supra guys go for first. IE, Typical cheap Supra mods = make turbos non sequential (like GTRS), they end up more laggy but make more power. Put a GT3582R on there and make even more power with the same or less lag...

Can you outline which laws of physics dictate that two masses can spin up faster than one for us a bit challenged on that front if you are going to be so abrasive about it?

Oh yeah, Heat Treatments GTR will be tuned in a matter of days with its latest changes - I don't know if they'll make the figures public or not but if any indication is given I will post it. I suspect if RIPS maintains his madness and pulls it all off we may well see a new worlds fastest RB powered drag car record..... Hahahaha nice, liking it so far - then?

I'm not convinced they gave the 25 a chance, they blew one up but I don't think it was a 25 limitation so much as oil flow and they may (not 100% so don't hold me to this) have had issues with the first 26s until they sorted it out. GT3582Rs are an aweful lot of fun on 25s! GT30R is definitely more punchy, but above 4000rpm a GT35R starts becoming rather nuts - 20+psi and you're looking at a car capable of into the 10s with the right setup. Huge fun! But no traction on the road.

.82a/r, the only "GT3076Rs" with a .86 are the horrid T25 flanged ones with a trimmed turbine. Yuck.

I think that the two twins spooling faster (depending on the circumstances) is a bit of a farce but with stock upgrades I reckon it has an element of truth. If you really want a big single, a .82a/r GT3582R would probably be the most logical. They will break 300kw without thinking about it and will give you a lot of headroom for going further.

GT2560R-9s, or 707160-9s fit between -7s and -5s.... in my opinion make -7s completely redundant as they are essentially the same spool but flow substantially better.