Butters

same guy ?

ooorrrrrrr -- https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

Yes upgrade, seriously consider buying a drop in one. I bought the adapter bracket and sold it on. Then I see so many ls1 alt failures (yes I know others have had success) Alternator is something i want super reliable, so personally spending on a nice drop in is well worth it

Also having fun waiting on parts from a shop here in Aus(near 9 months now) This was a bit to close to home to be funny

Ignite 5.0 has been the best I have seen and used. Works with standard covers, fits around the VCAM(which I use). Made in Australia too. Wiring is really nice as well. https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-rb20-rb25-rb26-r35-coil-kit

Ha, you just reminded I also bought the LS1 alt kit, didn't like it, sold it before fitting and bought a direct bolt on alt. Been very happy that i spent the little extra for a true bolt on.

I also removed PRP gear. The prp coil kit was pretty horrible, although to be fair I believe they have revised it all now. Went to ignite 5.0, coil kit is mint and they did me a custom trigger kit for my ati balancer 36-2. No cutting front covers and no sensitive pickup points that need to be thousands perfect. I do still have a PRP oil pump back cover, I am yet to fit to a car, not sure if I should.

Gosh Haltech must hate videos like that. Not much PRP gear either. I enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. The stock ports, wow ! I've seen up to 1000 on stock head but never 1500s. @khezz that rams head in perth yours ?

You want gts-t hubs all round. The Z32 has a larger spline rear axle , so unless you plan on changing the diff , its a no go. You won't need a press, its a bolt off, bolt on job if you get the complete hubs. As for brakes Z32 will fit fine all round. Ideally you use the Z32 dust shields but if you can't get them then you can cut the fold over lip off the gts ones and you will need to clearance around the caliper bolts.

Stock bottom end from 1990 , makes high 700s wheel. Starts up, takes kids to school weekly for the last 4 years. Sure I don't get on it, but that is nuts to do on the street these days anyhow. Go roll racing for that. Gives me a smile though before i have to face the horror that is working

I don't think anyone says you can't drive it on street. It's HOW streetable and that is always going to come down to what a person wants and circumstances. 12min for me is a garage full of e85 fumes, or roller door up whilst drivers by gawk at my other cars. Plus I have young kids which I am often escaping from whilst they sleep. Then the neighbors, one across the road has a lambo, who idles for 10min before driving, he's had the council called on him from other neighbors. So if i was living the dream on an acre property and separate shed from house, probably have a billet block already and cheerish the 12mins of listening to my car idle whilst my brain soaks some e85.

So this is pretty much my billet block on street nightmare come true, looks like safety's saved him though. 11:34 if your link resets the start point.

Not any more info but a vid with some words - 24:43 for PRP update

Love to see some pictures or more info on this ? Also thanks for the post, interesting info.

*Not saying this is your issue. But one page back I posted this. I was hitting a wall at low 700s. g35-1050 .83 - 4inch dump, 3inch exhaust. Swapped to 4inch exhaust and it picked up heaps and had scope for more ! This is the back to back

and found the important bit Q: what’s the price point? A: Don’t hold us to it but our target price is around 8k for the 1500hp version and 10k for the integrated main cap version with 4 bolt main option 3000hp. Note: We aim to include main bolts and ALL machine work to spec for a ready to build torque plate finished solution.

prp cast sample posted today

Plus being 2 parts makes it viable to fit whilst in the car. I have no doubt it will make more down low, just will it tap out around 800 hp. The Rajab cars back in the day used to be the leaders but 650rwhp and 9 second VLs is no longer the upper end of power these days.

It's in the video I linked.

No data but the video i posted at the back half has back to back comparison from stock to rajab long.

Having always liked long runner intakes , this has had my interest. The results look excellent. What are your thoughts ? Suitable on a 1000hp(at crank setup) 3min mark for the back to back dyno test --> https://www.facebook.com/RajabRacing/videos/6500898046628155 https://empireelite.com.au/RAJAB-RACING-RB26-INLET-MANIFOLD-p557351869

that was an educational post @Lithium ! Good read.

The gearbox ratios are the same in the manual transmission. The final drive ratios are different making the gears shorter. 4:3 GTS4 vs 4:1 in gtr Gear 1 2 3 4 5 6 R32/R33 3.214 1.925 1.302 1.000 0.752

I was deleting the Y so went with an aeroflow fitting to AN to barb, not the cheapest but cheaper than factory. I am sure others will have better solutions, I am but a home hack

I purposely mounted it in the wheel arch , with cool air over it to collect as much as possible. My catch can is plumb back to intake, to keep everything legal. I want as little in the intake as possible.