Butters

Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel. One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch. These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height. There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened.

Not yet, might end up being easter now, didn't end up getting time off over xmas. I've been seeing some concerning things online now too. Lots of people with issues, could all be setup issues but the consequences in some cases are significant. All of the below are other peoples stories, not mine and are unverified. Seen 2 x broken adapter ring that destroyed the gearbox as it failed. They still do seem to have twin plate rattle despite claims of silent. Several issues with it not holding power but some evidence of constant pressure on plate. Setup issues with bite point. Lot of people after 2-4 weeks swapping back to another brand. On the positive side, I've seen a barra put down near 1000hp at the wheels and its held it. Also everyone seems to confirm the pedal is light. Does have me a little cautious and looking at ATS carbon clutches again .......

bought it, hated it, went back to mw3.

Indeed they do. Best my diff builder could tell is it's a combination of the different cut/angle and it would seem they lap them in well on accell but less so on decel. He had to use a slightly different pattern to the lap to get the best result noise wise. Also as the rear diff runs in, the whine is getting less. Overall they seem like a good thing so far. He's done a few neat crown/pinion before but all for race cars with loud everything, in most cases the exhaust is louder, so I am the first to notice.... and be somewhat of a pain

So mines not in yet ... which should tell you something ... I got a set of neat gears as well, took a year to get those. Then the setup was a real tricky one, with all the changes. It seems the shims for the front diffs are in short supply and had to wait two round of custom ones. This was all done by a professional diff builder , not me/diy. So here we are about to go into 2025 and I do finally have a built front sump / diff / gears. Just need the mojo to pull out the engine ... Oh as an aside on the neat gears, they have some whine, mostly on decel. Taken a bit of setup again to get that down to a street car level.

just under 600rwkw , 1650cc, pump e85 ~80% duty Your 1200s won't make it safely

Hoping they release an R34 getrag pull type.

I think at this point we need some pictures of the centre

This was a fun watch

Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go. Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is. I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though. Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past. I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset.

From memory and please correct me if I have this wrong, the nismo that come with half shafts are specific for that diff centre. You may be able to find Nissan ones that match up but you'd need to understand what nismo are doing. Best option is get a pair of 5x1 axles, they usually don't cost that much and direct swap over for the 3x2(6 bollt)

I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down. I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far. Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play.

So far, based on the maps. Looks like 42 frame size 68mm & 72mm And 45 frame size with 67mm and 73mm

Big claims here. Any links up on the website ?

If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box. If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it. CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory. Also the deal above is awesome,, get that

Guess I should be hunting down one of these big ol ford units then for max flow .... I've had fresh gas in mine and it was never as cold as it is now . The compressor could have been trash though, like I said I am one example with a bunch of unknowns.

I installed it all myself, It was really easy to install. I got a professional to do the degas/gas.

I got the full kit. The compressor as above is much smaller and lighter. Also quieter. Bracket is visually mint and much lighter. The dryer and heat exchanger(rad) are one unit. Also smaller and lighter. Much more room for an oil cooler. The fan I got was a bit Meh and I might change it. And above all else it is more efficient, tested a good 3-4 degree's cooler than the old system, which is a lot. Disclaimer though - It wasn't a back to back test given different days. It really does feel colder though(always). And this example is in my car with that crusty looking old compressor, not new vs new

Not yet, likely be a xmas install

I actually think its really good value for everything brand new plus the conversion work all done. Just its more than buying just a compressor. The billet bracket is a work of art. This pick alone, tells you how many decades you are moving forward

If you really want good AC consider the frenchies kit. All modern gear, works much better and is lighter. But it is $$$$$$

You can imagine the combo of non synth + neglect to change = some of the horror motors that are caked in oil sludge.

Ross Balancers seem fine now. Consider speaking to ignite 5.0 for the trigger kit though. They don't list the kits on the site but will supply them. I run two RB's, one a Ross 36-2 and an Ati with custom trigger wheel 36-2, both with ignite 5.0 triggers. So much better than other kits around. No cutting oil pump housings, no issues with sync or fine tolerance clearances. Just bloody works and has done for over 3 years. With 36-2 and a good ecu too, once you have start sync, the cam trigger is no longer used.

Down the rabbit hole i go ..... this is tempting https://www.grannasracing.com/products/tilton-v160-adjustable-height-hydraulic-release-bearing-supra-r34-gt-r?_pos=6&_sid=de1a996fd&_ss=r

Just some day one info. It is heavy, the flywheel being built in makes for a solid setup. Will try and weigh with a flywheel to compare to a direct clutch or nismo twin. Also the advertised torque is peak, which is not unsurprising and explains my previous conversations. So real torque is about 1000 FT/lB, plenty for a 1000hp GTR. Considering mine is making 600ft/lb wheels, 650-80 ish fly(?) lots of room for more power