Butters

Just some day one info. It is heavy, the flywheel being built in makes for a solid setup. Will try and weigh with a flywheel to compare to a direct clutch or nismo twin. Also the advertised torque is peak, which is not unsurprising and explains my previous conversations. So real torque is about 1000 FT/lB, plenty for a 1000hp GTR. Considering mine is making 600ft/lb wheels, 650-80 ish fly(?) lots of room for more power

So it arrived today, very fancy box, swag and it sits a in zip up bag. Lets hope the marketing matches the performance.

this seems aligned to our experiences

Ordered myself a gooloo , so far so good. $180 - https://gooloo.com.au/products/gt4000s?variant=44378290651382

It's really REALLY quite for a 4inch and no drone. SP will make a smaller set of mufflers if you are looking for a bit more noise.

Recently made the switch from a 3inch to 4inch SP Muffler setup. Very happy with the result, more power and much better low down response. The SP gear is high quality and they are a joy to deal with, they made me custom spec mufflers for my random setup. I also wanted it quite and they did a great job of that. My only complaint is they are a heavy unit. Can't say what a 3.5 inch would have done but no regrets going the larger option. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzV4rhxv4tG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I am wondering how much the plastic hat plays into this. Both of mine melted more opposite the wire crimp. Tried the efihardware ones , double washers , better eye terminals. The seat of the plastic ring inside the metal hole is very thin 1mm or so and you are putting through a threaded bolt, which can cut the plastic, won't take much for some conductivity to occur in a metal fuel hat that is earthed. Amp draw of pump is going to be a variable here too. many things that impact that.

I've had a range of rear diff centres - open, viscous, helical, mechanical, welded, etc. I can't go past a refreshed factory 32 gtr centre for consistent lock and street driving. The next step up for me would be the nismo 1.5 way , which likely suits you better as track sounds like the focus. Will chatter in carparks but its not the worst. I have never tried a quaife rear diff, an option I've looked at before and might be one for you ..... Currently playing with an S15 centre at the moment and I hate it. The transition from single wheel spin either side is just weird.

Melted into the plastic, example one of the two, had washer either side.

From personal experience, spend the extra and get a frenchies hat with the better connector. I've melted those exact terminals twice before upgrading the hat with a proper connector. https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/fuel-system-kits/products/copy-of-200sx-s14-s15-r33-r34-twin-pump-in-tank-fuel-system-kit I know its a big step up $$ wise but it will properly solve your issue and give you great peace of mind. If budget is really stretched then consider this ??(not used myself nor know it will work in your application though) https://aftermarketindustries.com.au/fuel-pumps-accessories/fuel-pump-power-bulkhead-terminal/ As an aside run 460s at 12v for over 7 years in e85 no PWM.

From Uniclutch "For the flywheels, both the R32 and R34 GTR are very similar and share the same UniClutch fitment kit so you can purchase whichever you like. Just be aware that you would set it up according to the flywheel you buy. If using an R32 GTR flywheel, setup the UniClutch like an R32 GTR. Yes, you will need a pull-to-push conversion. We are working on a pull type UniClutch, however, this is expected near the end of the year. The OS Giken stuff works great." Trying to decide between these two flywheels - https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lightweight-flywheel-for-sports-clutch-kit-bnr34.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lightweight-flywheel-for-sports-clutch-kit-bnr32-bcnr33-r32-r33-a31-wgnc34.html Any others I should be looking at ? ...

Track version is now out for the GTR. Got this when i asked about track version still having RDC, which is good news. "All UniClutch’s have silent shift - even the track version. So never any chatter . Track has Quad drive noise dampening which has less angularity than dual drive RDC, but it’s stronger, and will still dampen noise in a Petrol vehicle without a dual mass flywheel . Would be a little noisier in a diesel if the DMF has been swapped out. But that is usually 4x4s and there is a 4Terrain UniClutch tuned for that type of vehicle - ie a Patrol. Still no detail on which flywheel to use with the BNR34 nor a recommended pull to push conversion.

Ignore, still looking for the correct picture.

It's a lottery, no one is going to be able to predict how much HP YOUR engine is going to handle as history has a huge part to play. As examples though. I have one rb26 on 630rwhp, running 16 years now at that level, track use, only a couple of times a year. Another 790rwhp, about 2 years now, driven every weekend. If i was to give you a "safe" number I would say 450rwhp on 98 and 550-600 on e85. Seen plenty of motors pop with less though too

Fair play on the 120k, sorry just live in nanny Aus. High rpm on cruise would kill me too. On the gears, its not just first, so beside the fact I really enjoy that nice punch you get when you accel in first. 2nd is all messed up in the gearsets too. Most people I know with gearsets(even sequentials) have to drop into 1st for tarmac rally slower corners as second gear is too low in rpm, its painful. Translate to the street, I am using a 2.3 gear out of a low speed turn, gearset you got a 1.7 second. I can tell you now between my two cars which one is a LOT more fun. On a track its a different story, once the car is moving the gearset ratios are supreme, 1st gets you going on a big rpm launch, then 2nd is no issue for the corner speed on most tracks. Yer the price sucks , old enough to remember these selling for $1500usd here in Aus.

Counter opinon. Having both an OS gearset car and the getrag 6 speed, will take the 6 speed for the street all day long thanks. First gear on most gear sets are ASS, the bloody gear you spend heaps of time in on the street too. I run the 4.11 and it is fine at 110, (not sure who gets to do 120) I do find the gears a little short and doing a 3.89 setup. Anyway back to your question, running stock LSD rear, love it. Tried an S15 helical rear, it was aweful. In the process of doing a quaife front on advice as part of the 3.89. Seems like a good option. Let you know Car is 800awhp and mostly street.

The only logic and I know this is flawed to my staged pumps is the chance of detecting a pump failure. With both running all the time if one dies you won't know. With one primary if that dies you know, the second yes will be a mystery but at least you have a 50% chance ? Either way though safeties are super important in dual setups. I've wondered about putting an Amp meter on as extra safety but then you just should buy a PDM

using a map with TPS and duty cycle with a slight delay on the off. The second pump only really needs to come on when flat out. PWM is interesting, are you using a solid state relay ?

Cams are not needed at this power level, they will create lag. The cam gears are a good idea though.

2530 is a 250-300whp turbo on 98, So x 2 , take some tax as you have two and that is your answer. You tend to have to have the boost pretty high in twin setup, which is not great for U98 as heat kicks in quick. As above though, more injector is going to get you more but you need to be realistic with a older twin setup on 98 fuel. Cool as heck but not the best way to make power these days.

10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k. Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer. Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge.

I was looking into the uniclutch, as something that doesn't rattle, dampens and holds horsepower is the dream. They didn't seem super confident on the power holding though. Could just be covering themselves, which is understandable. "The 10in sport Uniclutch can handle a peak of 1100Nm at the flywheel, not sure how that translates to HP. As for the power output of your engine, I would suggest holding for the UniClutch Track, I feel the 1000HP will have a higher torque rating then what the Sport will be able to handle, We have fitted prototype track clutches to a number of street/track test vehicles now and have found pedal effort to be reasonable. It is very similar to OE pedal feel. and would fall within the torque capacity of the Uniclutch Track." The track clutch loses the dampening and rattles(?) I believe though.... don't quote me

I'd be re-doing the head gasket check(Combustion leak), can be very subtle and given how long it takes to overheat, likely a small break in the head gasket. Agree the gktech fan needs to go but assuming you are in brizzy it should hold up to 25degree weather. Out of the 5 or so times I've had this problem, only once was I lucky enough to have a stuck thermostat. The rest, pull the head off fun times. I hope for you this is a lucky one

Seems bang on to me , g30-900 will make 900 crank on e85(on paper). Deduct ~25% for 98 and you are at 675 crank. Run that to the wheels and fact you are only running 26psi you end up about your number. People forget how magic E85 is now that just about everyone is running it. "Back in the day" you had to be north of 30psi on a 850+hp turbo to get 600 at the wheels on 98.