Butters

Thanks, you are correct in saying I don't want a one shot motor. I am looking for 50k-100k of life over 5 + years. The current motor is 150,000ks and 30+ years , did rest for 2 of those though haha. A couple of extra points as your point about your blowby on petrol. As what you say makes sense to me. I really didn't get any U98, it was also run 14psi, stock turbos 270rwhp. I did wonder about injectors but I have had both stock and bosch. I also have had 2 different ecu's 2 different tuners. One spent a bit of time putting in fuel cuts to minimise excessive e85 when not needed. And to be clear, i don't get any real oil either. Here is a pic from draining catch can, this is basically one single 2,3,4 pull Roll race run. All E85 After a night, the bottle would be half full.

Yep in all combos this motor has done it since going on e85. From Stock turbo, stock injectors, 14 psi 300 rwhp to G35 turbo, 1650cc, 28 psi 780rwhp. And everything in-between.

Nar it's when you are on it. I had a clear catch can ... ok it was a coke bottle on the dyno and on a powerrun a good 50ml would appear. Doing the school runs , car cruises etc I get almost nothing in the can(its a proper one now) One night of roll racing and its half filled, nearly a liter of e85.

So I am sure many have experienced E85 passing the rings and flowing into a catch can. I am looking at engine build options and the car will be full time E85. I've been reading(dangerous I know) about gas porting and the impact on ring seal. I also saw on a piston manufacturer video they have specifically designed the gas ports with E85 in mind and reducing passing into the crank case. So does anyone have experience or knowledge on this ? In my own experience of E85(running it 15 years now) multiple cars, regular street driving, i've not had huge amounts in my catch can. My latest setup really does though and at all power levels. Two different tuners have told me this is very normal but it's new for me. The compression test on this engine is the same as my other.

Ooohhh one of the first results I've seen with one and a very good one at that. Shame you don't have RPM.

Thanks ! I really appreciate your insight. I need to get into measuring EMAP to understand more of what you say and improve my experience. I'd love to do this comparison but not a cheap one given the cost of a rear housing and dyno time. I should say as above not really chasing more power at this stage. One day I will hopefully go 2.8 and then a larger rear will be worthwhile to get more out of it. I think that was really what I wanted to prove here is with a built bottom end, is 850 rear a real goal with this turbo. Seemed a long long way of before.

Whilst being very happy with how my car drives and overall power number(g35-1050). The car wasn't responding to changes well(boost or timing) and I seemed to be tapped out at the low 700 range. I did expect the turbo could make more given the results I have seen here and there, I am always keen to solve problems. I run the smaller housing(.83) , a 4 inch dump but a 3 inch exhaust. Whilst everyone was saying go the bigger turbo housing, I decided to change the exhaust given I didn't want to lose spool. I went all out and built a titanium 4inch from dump back. Result was amazing as below and this is with 2 degrees less timing, on same timing it made 788. It made more power everywhere. Fair to say i'd likely get the same result on a 3.5 inch but clearly the 3inch was holding it back. Both my tuner and I thought it would go over 800 now with more boost. 3 inch vs 4 inch - dump back And yes at measure point the boost is higher but that is not the case everywhere

Adding another view for your consideration. The factory water to oil heat exchanger does make the car run warmer(not hot) but it does also make the water warm up quicker(which is nice, specially in cold countries). After removing mine, water temps go from mid 80s to mid 70s, basically sits on the thermostat opening temp of 76 degrees. It is a solid 10 degree ECT drop. Which I really like personally and being in a place geographically that never sees sub 20c water temp start, the slower warm up is no issue. Your car must be tuned for this lower water temp though. You then need to control oil temp and adding an air oil cooler solves that.

Doing the full gtr diff/rear conversion spirals cost wise quickly, also not really needed at your power level. Options exist to use a gtr diff with your current axles but disclaimer i've never used these myself -http://www.leesonengineering.com.au/blog/r200-350zgtr5x1-stub-conversion/

I've run Nismo, kaaz and cusco in a rwd S13. Nismo has been the best for me. If i was you though I'd consider a standard gtr diff, it's what i have gone to in all my street cars and once freshened up is by far the nicest to drive on the daily.

Funny reading this back 3 years later. Ended up with the g35-1050, getrag+4.11s and vcam. Couldn't be happier. Made 100hp more than my goal and does the school run just fine

So an opportunity to get one popped up and I bought in. Not as impressed as I hoped to be(near 2k manifold remember) , it's got some weight and I will put on scales next to a 6boost soon to compare. The small gate flange is insulting and whilst they say you can run a 50mm I expected the gate runner to be bigger. Swapping the flange over is going to be a PITA. The good stuff: The facing on the head side is amazing I can see that being a good seal. The overall finish is really really good. Will be a long while before I fit this and as always remember I am not a mechanic, the above is an opinion of enthusiast

Now it seems no question that if you are going to put in a front LSD, the quaife is the choice. What I want to know is how polite it is on the street regular driving ? Does it chatter around roundabouts ? does it create understeer on tight corners ? My car is a setup for both driving the kids around on Sunday and the odd roll racing. I had a 1 way in the rear and it was a very nice polite one but the chatter in car parks got to me and I was much happier with a shimmed stocker. I also run a nismo clutch so I have no rattles, to give you an idea of how I want this car to be. Given the expense of the quaife, then the setup, then the labour to remove and re-install engine this is not a decision I am keen to get wrong. Sadly most of the cars around me in perth with one are race setup and either broken or make too much noise to even tell whats going on in the front. I currently have no issue with traction(720rwhp) and the car isn't going to see much more power(maybe 800), so again, not sure its worth the risk if I have to pull it out. Be great to hear from anyone that has this LSD, drives on the street and can give an idea of what situations it starts to create noise or impact to the car.

Both the body loom and trans sub loom are different between auto and manual. You are going to need to change at least one of them. Most people just change the trans loom, this leaves you with un-used plugs on the auto body loom. Picky people will do both to tidy things up. The speed drive is mechanical, you can use which ever matches your gearing.

@GTSBoy posted a good link, happy to answer any questions that thread doesn't.

Neat as posted rebuild them. They are noisy as heck though if you don't have the factory damper flywheel.

I hear this a lot, specially from motivedvd but rarely see any data. It's also not usually all gains , some trade off is at play. So its about getting a setup fit for your purpose. I've had really good success with smaller .8 rears on RB26's, always wondered about going larger but a back to back test is very expensive. Be great to see some data to sway the expense. I'm not in the 1000hp plus region where i suspect larger rear is always going to be better.

On G series ? or more in general , any back to back dyno sheets kicking around ?

Normally really informative videos from Real Street but this was another advert

He has stated in previous video that the brace was built for 4wd adaptions. Then they noticed blocks crack less. Yes walk is it's feature but also this from the PRP site. "Aftermarket diffs crack blocks! it’s a fact, the Platinum Block brace will not only stop block twist, but stops the diff snapping the block under load, energy is dissipated through your 40mm thick integrated and webbed brace, blocks cracking and snapping become a thing of the past!"

So this was a fun watch. Seems a lot of value in an N1 block over a standard, specially for the power levels that are not going to split bores(1200 + ?) . It does make you really question the value of a brace.

Bit sad really, turns you aware from what actually might be a good product.

Watched this yesterday, a lot of BIAS as they are now selling them but given how little info around I thought I would share. They claim 15% power increase ... yer I wish, love to see this comparison if anyone has seen it. So far the advantages over a 6 boober seem to be : Comes with a gate flange Lighter - 5kg ish ? More compact - better AC and would help reduce heat transfer Has a heat blanket option Downsides : Clearance of studs(6boober has this too) Higher cost Reverse rotation turbos only( big issue for those that have a turbo)

The heat blankets have a price now . Seems very reasonable in todays world. https://artecperformance.com.au/products/nissan-rb-v-band-reverse-rotation-thermal-management-blanket

That was my first thought also. I dropped coin on a frenchies kit, which is really awesome but be nice if the factory stuff all fit better with 6boost. Not sure how I feel about the compressor outlet being so close to the manifold though. Very keen to see one of these with a heat blanket over them.