Butters

anyone on here ?

Wouldn't reducing the gap between the magnet and cup increase the reading ? IE some metal filings finding its way inside and would give an intermittent experience depending on where it is sitting. The other failure point would be the spring ?

I am using this one - https://raceworks.com.au/catch-cans-tanks/catch-cans/external-breathers/1-6l-black/ I have both breathers plumbed into the front inlets. The I have one of the top ones blocked off, the other into my inlet. Being on e85 and a street car i breathe a lot and despite the low baffling it catches most of it. Fills it on a night of roll racing.

And looks like they just released the big daddy RB version https://www.facebook.com/PlatinumRacingProducts/posts/pfbid0zrf5V3ne4bxAsqd4giMwcMKnxABZiy9qGNKweusafPMGckw18VWFy6e5fA1cqpFTl

You can get two different sized titanium nut kits(different makers), can't tell from pics but I assume yours are the 12mm ? Please keep posting pic's keen to hear / see all the good and bad ! Seems like you have a lot of clearance to strut tower, this is in the 32R ? Also interested in seeing potential space for a new turbosmart straight gate Also looks like so so much room underneath compared to a 6boost, not sure what you would use it for but I am sure the AC lines would appreciate it

Not sure what you would gain by swapping to the g35-1050, your result is very good and kind of better than my g35-1050 (.82) on a rb26. Stick with it I say.

Please report back here the results ! Also if you could throw them on some scales the verify the weight that would be awesome.

Anyone have any experience with these ? https://artecperformance.com.au/products/artec-nissan-skyline-rb-exhaust-manifold-v-band-reverse-rotation What got my interest was the 7.1kg, my last 6boost was solid 12kg. Not to mention it didn't fit... wait i just did I also like the off the shelf blanket option. I've had real heat issues with my current setup. The reverse rotation is a bit tits as it means new turbo and new piping.

As others have said, HP sold is not HP tested. 1050cc injectors are the first tell, a setup for 650 crank, not wheel really. The 044 should be able to get you to 600rwhp ... JUST. The bigger thing here is the fuel reg, you will need to squeeze those injectors and need an adjustable reg to do it. I've also had fuel regs run higher pressure at idle due to being faulty and then drop pressure when demand is on. I got suckered into upgrading fuel lines and pumps when all the time it was the faulty fuel reg.

Zero point modifying it for power if you want NA. P plate legal by chance ? You can modify it for sound, 6 throttles, cams and extractors. You might make power, you might loose power. I have really wanted to see a G25-550 e85 setup on an rb20 neo, I think that would be killer. Please do that, so I can see it.....

I found this recently too - https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ Have to scroll way down to get to the testing data. Some different results and calls out the difference between old and new blocks.

Between the big exhaust and gearbox the trans tunnel in my car gets very warm, nice on winters day but not so much in summer. I lined the trans tunnel with stick on reflective heat shield, mostly at the top with a bit down each side. Huge improvement ! I know this doesn't fix your "hot box" problem but if you consider the temp normal, it fixes your experience. This is in my Cefiro but its the same trans tunnel as a 32R.

Need to give that 700 hp a bit of a dyno haircut as its on standard smoothing. Still very impressive even if it is 650's on an SAE CF.

So far seeing the pulsar make the same numbers as genuine and some big ones and big boost at that. They seem to be lasting too, yet to see a failure in some abused setups. Given they are 35% of the price it does make me feel a bit foolish paying so much. Happy to be educated otherwise , my experience is limited but with the above I am seriously considering buying one for my bigger HP setup.

still waiting for some to awd sump convert for a gtr install, same with an LS too haha Seen an awd ford ute with one that ripped.. territory running gear though.

g35 1050 - vband, vcam and .86 rear if this helps you

DART 2jz info 1 year away and $4200usd expected rrp

Very much yes. Make sure you have all the hoses in the correct configuration too, I have seen people plumb coolant line into a vac line in these intake conversions before.

I'd be looking for constants between before and after the head gasket fix. Given what you described which was quick to overheat once you start driving ? not extended drives ? It sounds more than a fan / rad issue to me. You could have the FFP leaking into chambers, also sad to say an issue with the block. The cooling system could handle what ever small leak you have once you rev/drive it creates pressure and heat. If you haven't already, pressure test your cooling system.

This is the dyno for current setup, not got the 4inch exhaust yet, still ordering parts. Map sensor on dyno is a bit out, reads high.

Now don't hold back, you tell us how you really feel 🤣

Yep, you also said , been years and no eta. Just thought people would like the offical line and an update on timing. Forgive me for not crediting your prior post

Sorry if I missed it and to question but how are you 100% sure you are getting spark ? have you had a plug in a coil and seen it ? As spark + starter fluid always equal pop even if your timing is out. .... just pop out wrong side

PRP claim to be making rb26 cast block https://www.facebook.com/PlatinumRacingProducts/posts/pfbid0JvAYqGjU412b1XWvhg9kGHuV1Bt4rgbzTDGhwSSCA6Nq9k3nVqpDbHLvXeTpAhEQl

Is the new oil pressure sensor the same type ?