Butters

I have a nismo 1.5 pro and I am old now and wouldn't use it in a street car. It's an amazing diff though, just be too annoying for weekly drives. Rebuilt stock gtr is great in the rear, it still skips slightly on tight tight slow turns but very minor. Drives both rears perfectly.

it's the .83 rear housing I assume by that you mean 4inch ? Decided to go that way for the future.

Car was tuned today. Seemed to struggle to make numbers again but got to a good place in the end. 722 rwhp on 26 psi climbing to 28psi. I was very happy. My tuner did think we should be nearer or over 800 on this boost. The VCAM worked amazing, picking up on average 50% more torque from 2000rpm to 5000rpm I still have a 3inch exhaust, which steps down twice from the 4inch dump. So that's next on the list to change. Not sure if 3.5 or 4 is the answer.

lol that is an interesting way to describe ...... Car is still not tuned yet, this was setup step prior, so hopefully in a couple of weeks time i will have a dyno graph.

889 rpm and 22 degree advance Sorry for the potato pic, its a screen shot of a video.

Well got my VCAM wired in today. Seems to be no issue activating it at low RPM/idle and this is with the kelfords 80lb springs . Still yet to get on dyno but this is a nice relief.

well if we can get back to car parts for a moment over questioning my life choices ... Here is some really good insight from Sam at Neat "Yes this is a characteristic of the V160 especially with a solid centre clutch and DMF removal. Rebuilding them can benefit a little as it tightens things up a bit, and we also do ISF treatment to the gear which can reduce noise, but not the rattle. Changing the oil to a light weight gear oil (75w85GL4) can benefit things a bit, as the OEM-fill ATF has almost no EP additives in it at all. You may find additional shift notchiness if you do this though, especially while cold." Ordered some oil, its a cheap thing to try and good to know a rebuild could possibly take the edge off.

Back to the RB20 Auto then eh .... Building a street car for me, how I want it, I accept plenty of things won't be like a stock car(exhaust one example). If i can make some things that bother me better why not try. I post here to gain the experience of others who may have used some of these parts, it's sad how often i regret that.

Its built to be a street car, I take the kids in it and hence I forked the coin for a syncro box, not dog engagement. It drives amazing and pretty much achieved my goal except for this noise and power goal ...

The conclusion I am on at the moment is I want a nismo twin plate mated to dual mass flywheel. That's the only zero noise, clutch engaged/not engaged option I can think of which of course does not exist. Going to email neat gearbox for some advice, they might have some options to drop the box noise.

For those with no patience for a 2min video the exact example that bothers me is here. It's very noticeable sitting at traffic lights with the window down.

Well to be be clear my saying - "clutch pedal in" means that the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor and the clutch is disengaged(no drive transmitted) at the gearbox. So the noise on the clutch pedal out, or clutch engaged is the gearbox which is apparently normal with the getrag once you take the dual mass flywheel out. So whilst it is the gearbox making the noise, it is a result of the change of clutch ... ATS even made a video about it -

Well, I went the nismo twin clutch. The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing, foot feel is great and it holds power no problem .... but ... in neutral with pedal out the box is pretty damn loud .. so loud I am googling ATS silent clutch again and finding my own thread

Reviewing the logs on my car after a few pulls and notice the voltage steadily drops on full noise. Now I assume this is normal as the injectors, pump(s), and other items are all drawing more. Does 13.8 to 12.8 then back to 13.8 in a gear change sound normal ? Also is the ecu good at measuring voltage or is it giving false numbers due to its own demand ? Extra info: Car runs staged pumps, volt drop increases slightly as second pump comes on but really its steady angle down. The alternator is aftermarket 120amp jap brand.

I must be doing v-band wrong as I find my new vband setup much harder to remove/install over my old 4 bolts (x2). Horizontal access is really limited for the turbo vs coming from the top for the T4 flange on my old setup. I do really like no gaskets and being able to position the turbo though. I went a bit silly and used VBands through exhaust system, some of which I want to switch back to flanged now for fix position and lets say more flexible "tolerances"

Looks like they are just new covers ?

going to be interesting to see how my kelfords 80lb go, cars running but yet to see dyno

Yes @GTSBoy iron, sorry not sure what was going on in my brain. Thanks for your reply, good info. I thought iron was 4.5 on Mohs and Nickel 4, making it slightly less hard. Appreciate that is considered a less reliable way of measuring hardness.

Sooooo I re-watched this video and I have questions .... On a second watch this really does look like a video beat up of N1 and sales pitch for braces. The N1 block is claimed (my understanding) >Have 1mm thicker deck - Confirmed in video >Have higher Nickel content ... not addressed >Be stronger around cylinder 3 and 4 - not addressed other than visual inspection >Have modified internal water and oil passages for better flow - not addressed other than visual inspection The video did claim it was less hard, which I thought would suggest it has nickel, as nickel is less hard than cast steel ? Does hardness really stop a block cracking ? or is metallurgy a thing here ? I would of thought a hardness test of a billet block would be 30% less than a cast ? Also not aware that N1 was ever supposed to be thicker cylinder walls, so that is expected to be the same. THOUGHTS ???

I drive mine weekly(when its working haha) and sometimes to work. The loud car in the carpark is already a thing, idling it would be the next amusement for people. Also who wants to stay at work longer than they have to. *off to understand oil pre-heaters ....google time.

I am very similar, not wanting a monster, just want something that won't break. I look at the value now of a good running RB26 and wonder if i am better off selling and building billet before I put a crack in and its junk yard. I also really likes the idea of dropping 20kg from the car, losing weight in a proper street car is not easy and it all makes a difference. Not so sure about the weight saving though, now your adding pumps. The warming the car up is not ideal. It has me re-thinking a lot.

Spool is one thing I am happy with so far with the g35-1050. It makes 21psi before 4500 on a stock rb26(e85). I always tend to quote 15 psi, which is at 4150, slight earlier than my old school gt3582(4300). Hopefully i will see that improve 300ish rpm with VCAM, which should make it a very responsive setup. Just need the top end

Just showing off now with your 3 litre

It has arrived and in the car. It is a thing of beauty and without a doubt the best intercooler I have seen in person. The welds are spot on and the open mouth on the inlet side is very well done. It is crazy light too, much lighter than a factory core. Only issue has been the outlet is a good 85mm and the factory hose did not want to go back on. So a custom pipe was made. Which works out ok anyhow as I am using plazmaclamps everywhere. Will report back again once the car has been tuned.

Do i read correctly you gained about 250rpm faster spool and made more power ?