Butters

SO THIS ... is a lot more promising. G35-900 on a 2jz 1.01 rear. Low boost is U98 and high is E85 Does suggest I will be well into 35 psi range on the wee 2.6 but numbers are impressive.

Ha, I thought exact same, those results are like nothing I have seen before. Yes it would have been very interesting to see what it could have made on the same boost numbers. I was also taken back by the difference in spool on the g35 and would have loved to see the step down in housing to .82.

So this is a lot to take in .... The housing on the g30 , just mad, not what i expected at all. Still the g35 on race fuel is not making numbers I want to see

Well Coolant pressure increased significantly under + boost. Enough to bypass rad cap Coolant pressure normal under low load conditions and no overheating. Head off and you can see where it was bypassing the cylinder ring to coolant chamber on both head and gasket. Head cracked tested and serviced, all good. Block was only visually inspected, so please god ... let that be ok You could argue that is a Head gasket failure but it was still very much a complete unbroken gasket. So suggests some stretch on the factory head bolts. I know others that have had the same as above and not even taken the head off, just put in studs and continued on for years.

so here is hoping the lifting head was losing me some of those ponies at 2.7

That is a really good point ! I forgot about the auto factor.

The g2 gt3582 is around 57lb/min on the same part of the compressor map and seen many rb25/26 turn 570-600rwhp on this boost level (24psi 1.65PR). Also run 135-140mph in rwd chassis. Fat boy gtr's 128mph haha. I could be reading this wrong though ? What i would have expected is the 24 psi 80lb/min to translate into at least 650rwhp and maybe near 700rear Considering 34 psi makes 850rear on hawkins gtr, Making 25 rwhp(600@24 to 850@34) from each 1psi seems like a LOT !

Yer i will be doing a full leak test prior to dyno this time. Not sure what you are saying ? 800hp in reality ?

After being a little disappointed with my initial g35-1050 genuine turbo result. To be fair the head started to lift so not all things as they should be. I was struggling to crack 600rwhp at 24 psi on an rb26 E85. My other rb26 with old school gt3582 does 600 rear with ease. I was hoping for some bigger numbers so ... I have been watching this closely and it seems very similar to what I experienced, this is however a "Pulsar" version. What do you think is going on ? Surely 27psi on 2.5L cammed engine should be over 600 ? Or is the pulsar not really a g35-1050 ?

I ended up buying the ARC. Will report back in 4 months once it arrives and I get on the car

#1 is your speed drive. #2 I am fairly confident is the ball detent that holds the shifter in gear by placing pressure on the shaft. It should have a spring and a ball Also note the balls are different sizes between the box's, mixing and matching is bad.

Just as an aside for anyone else trying to get this off ..... a 27mm 02 socket(with the slot) works mint on a nice long bar.

See that's the cool thing about boost. Once you have it you can control it ... Very easy to tame down a small turbo's power curve vs trying to get a big turbo to come on early enough for the car to be fun.

So when kelford say - 80lb seat pressure at 39.10mm installed height Should be good ?

Coupe = floor pan same as all coupes from cat back including GTR. The only differences could be mount points, from gearbox or sub-frame. R33 GTS4 will have a long auto gearbox which might change that mount point, easily solvable though. Sedan is different, longer under rear seat.

My money is still on an oil pressure drop post cam cover. The other thing you have to question here is the data sampling and again I am sure you have done this but given we are running out of ideas I am wondering if it is actually activating before 3500rpm and your only seeing the change in the data at the point. Simple things like only log after 3500 for all parameters Are you holding the engine steady at 3000rpm for a period of time and activating the solenoid and seeing no change in the KV8 data ?

So to be very specific . The KV8 is sending PWM to the negative side of the solenoid at a specific RPM say 2000 ? Then you are reading the reluctor sensor on the side of the cam cover to see the advance ? And not seeing a change in the cam until 3500rpm ?

Currently installing a V-Cam also. So following thread with interest. In the instructions it does recommend an upgraded oil pump due to the pressure required by the vcam. 40 psi at idle is pretty stout though, can't imagine that being an issue if the flow is good. For my own interest, how are you confirming that it is or is not opening the vcam ? What are you using to control the vcam ? Assume an ecu over the HKS control box ? My only suggestion to help and I am sure you have looked at this is go through the o-rings(Cam cover ones especially). If one is pinched, 40 psi at cam cover is going to result in a lot less to cam gear if you have a leak. I agree with others above, the valve springs should have nothing to do with this.

You are correct, it was very flat until about 6000ish, then went straight up, horizontal for a couple of thousand rpm. I did take a picture, i'll see if i can did it out. It was "one of" the most powerful gtr in australia at the time.

Yep. One of his many combos. The Dyno graph was like nothing I have seen before nor likely to see again.

I can't remember exactly what ant man had on his skyline it may have been twin t04z , made big power numbers, near 1000 in the days before that was a thing. Didn't boost until near 7000rpm though. Cool as hell to see.

Amm this is why you buy a nice greddy oil filter re-locator, they have the bypass built in at the filter re-locator. Also thermostat for the oil cooler. Much easier than messing with the block.

Billet block is all win. I've not seen a lot documented on the braced blocks and cracking. Lots of claims from sellers of the braces of course

What sort of power are you making ?

Looking for any extra input that helps me make a decision on an intercooler. I am looking at staying with a drop in GTR style and I also have space constraint as I don't want to cut factory bumper / bar. I'd like the cooler that be the highest flow/hp rating given my thickness constraint. Options I see are Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm, rated 850hp (some claim 950hp fly) ARC M073 and M079 , both 70mm, the M079 is high density and lightens your wallet more. Nismo 75mm - Not sure who makes these now ? used to be ARC I believe , also very good at making your wallet lighter. PWR 68MM , Seems like the plazmaman would be better choice Did I miss any ? Any experience with the above ? would love to hear power achieved And no I won't be going 100mm and yes power goal is lots