Butters

G40 - 1150 result Never seen someone work so hard to reduce the power haha

The dump and turbo's changed at the same time. So it went Stock Twin Turbos - aftermarket front pipe but stock dumps, 3.5 inch cat, 3 inch exhaust, one rear cannon muffler. ~310rwhp g35-1050 - 4inch dump / front pipe and the same 3,5 inch cat and same 3 inch exhaust ~300rwhp 3psi and 710rwhp 24psi g35-1050 - Same 4 inch dump/front/cat and then a 4 inch titanium exhaust, 2 mufflers. ~780rwhp 25psi

I have an gearset in my other car, the problem is for the street the 1st gear is terrible. Really really annoyingly long. I have only seen a couple of options in helical + syncro with a street spec 1st gear. I didn't want a sequential for this car. I am glad I did it too, I am hoping with 3.89 it's the ideal setup. I know its only 5% difference but should drop the cruise rpm just enough and stretch each gear a touch without losing all the pickup.

Haha indeed, I am sure if you think about it you can figure out why Then again I have seen some interesting things on the east that suggest you might not have the same hurdles we do. Any idea why my pics stopped working ?

As I enjoy slowly(Years) building a car I have been through a few stages of mods so far and thought I might share my personal thoughts. Happy to share more info / experience if people are interested in any of the mods below. Start point Stock R32 RB26 , stock turbos, 4inch dump, 3 inch exhaust, link ecu, U98, 310rwhp, stock gtr driveline - What a slug, the car rev's nicely and drives nice but by todays standards a very slow car. G35-1050 install + E85 Running 3psi and also 300rwhp (Dyno is stock turbos vs g35 on 3psi). The gate being open so early(almost always haha) makes the low down power even worse. - Was almost the exact same to drive despite the dyno suggesting a massive gap. I guess slow is slow ? 6 speed Getrag install Kept the 4.11 and also put in a nismo twin clutch - This was good but actually a bit of a disappointment, I guess I had been suckered by the motive/ mines videos. - The car had no more response which in hindsight makes sense. What it did , was allow you to be in the correct gear when you need it, specially 2nd out of of corners was much nicer. Overall the car might be slower down the 1/4 due to all the changes required. - I do like the box though and knowing I can drive it hard is what having a car like this is all about. Boost time As soon as the car hit 24 psi on the dyno, making 500awhp on low timing .... POP goes the factory head gasket Head Rebuild with VCAM Usual metal HG, ARP studs and a Step 1 VCAM setup. Car made 700rwhp but was hitting a wall, getting high intake air temps and not responding to changes. - This was immediately magic, the difference in how the engine responded was huge. Power moved down 500rpm - VCAM is a high recommend. ARC intercooler Went baller and bought the top dog trying to find out why the car seemed capped at 700rwhp , given the IAT's seemed the stock gtr cooler could be a problem, plus it was dented. - By all accounts did sweet f**k all - looks really nice and is built REALLY well. 4inch titanium exhaust DIY home made and the next attempt in trying to find the restriction. Made 770rwhp and no more restriction, made 40hp more on the same boost, same timing. Dyno shows a tickle more boost and more timing. - WOW, immediate more low down torque, car improved in response and is now just an animal to drive. What's next : I need a new sump as I get oil pressure drop under high G. So going all out whilst on this mission. Neat 3.89 ratio's going in to drop the rpm slightly whilst cruising at 110 and stretch 1st out(slightly) Also a Quaife front LSD going in. I am also considering going a 4inch stainless as the titanium really sings, a bit much on the longer drives for old man me.

Any links to sample 4 inch mufflers that people have had success with ?

I am using an ignite 5.0 and vcam combo on mine. Post up your map *never mind, just looked through your log, trigger errors for sure.

From what I saw, Adam had replied to your log suggesting you very much have a trigger issue. He will review the config file for you if you are nice to him. The only time i had a trigger issue with link was when i have a poorly set pin on a deutsch plug.

on the link side - you can get help here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/381114149112524/

Arggg my saga continues. The recap, ordered in November, told March, invoiced with April. Month on month delay with new date. Latest being mid August as the eta. Now of course another company is advertising the product, I phone them, they claim a 2 week turnaround. Chasing original company, as mid august is here, no answers on messages or phone.

next update On paper, this would be epic 4 bolt mains better oil drains 90mm + bore thicker deck

same guy ?

ooorrrrrrr -- https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

Yes upgrade, seriously consider buying a drop in one. I bought the adapter bracket and sold it on. Then I see so many ls1 alt failures (yes I know others have had success) Alternator is something i want super reliable, so personally spending on a nice drop in is well worth it

Also having fun waiting on parts from a shop here in Aus(near 9 months now) This was a bit to close to home to be funny

Ignite 5.0 has been the best I have seen and used. Works with standard covers, fits around the VCAM(which I use). Made in Australia too. Wiring is really nice as well. https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-rb20-rb25-rb26-r35-coil-kit

Ha, you just reminded I also bought the LS1 alt kit, didn't like it, sold it before fitting and bought a direct bolt on alt. Been very happy that i spent the little extra for a true bolt on.

I also removed PRP gear. The prp coil kit was pretty horrible, although to be fair I believe they have revised it all now. Went to ignite 5.0, coil kit is mint and they did me a custom trigger kit for my ati balancer 36-2. No cutting front covers and no sensitive pickup points that need to be thousands perfect. I do still have a PRP oil pump back cover, I am yet to fit to a car, not sure if I should.

Gosh Haltech must hate videos like that. Not much PRP gear either. I enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. The stock ports, wow ! I've seen up to 1000 on stock head but never 1500s. @khezz that rams head in perth yours ?

You want gts-t hubs all round. The Z32 has a larger spline rear axle , so unless you plan on changing the diff , its a no go. You won't need a press, its a bolt off, bolt on job if you get the complete hubs. As for brakes Z32 will fit fine all round. Ideally you use the Z32 dust shields but if you can't get them then you can cut the fold over lip off the gts ones and you will need to clearance around the caliper bolts.

Stock bottom end from 1990 , makes high 700s wheel. Starts up, takes kids to school weekly for the last 4 years. Sure I don't get on it, but that is nuts to do on the street these days anyhow. Go roll racing for that. Gives me a smile though before i have to face the horror that is working

I don't think anyone says you can't drive it on street. It's HOW streetable and that is always going to come down to what a person wants and circumstances. 12min for me is a garage full of e85 fumes, or roller door up whilst drivers by gawk at my other cars. Plus I have young kids which I am often escaping from whilst they sleep. Then the neighbors, one across the road has a lambo, who idles for 10min before driving, he's had the council called on him from other neighbors. So if i was living the dream on an acre property and separate shed from house, probably have a billet block already and cheerish the 12mins of listening to my car idle whilst my brain soaks some e85.

So this is pretty much my billet block on street nightmare come true, looks like safety's saved him though. 11:34 if your link resets the start point.

Not any more info but a vid with some words - 24:43 for PRP update

Love to see some pictures or more info on this ? Also thanks for the post, interesting info.