Butters

For those with no patience for a 2min video the exact example that bothers me is here. It's very noticeable sitting at traffic lights with the window down.

Well to be be clear my saying - "clutch pedal in" means that the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor and the clutch is disengaged(no drive transmitted) at the gearbox. So the noise on the clutch pedal out, or clutch engaged is the gearbox which is apparently normal with the getrag once you take the dual mass flywheel out. So whilst it is the gearbox making the noise, it is a result of the change of clutch ... ATS even made a video about it -

Well, I went the nismo twin clutch. The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing, foot feel is great and it holds power no problem .... but ... in neutral with pedal out the box is pretty damn loud .. so loud I am googling ATS silent clutch again and finding my own thread

Reviewing the logs on my car after a few pulls and notice the voltage steadily drops on full noise. Now I assume this is normal as the injectors, pump(s), and other items are all drawing more. Does 13.8 to 12.8 then back to 13.8 in a gear change sound normal ? Also is the ecu good at measuring voltage or is it giving false numbers due to its own demand ? Extra info: Car runs staged pumps, volt drop increases slightly as second pump comes on but really its steady angle down. The alternator is aftermarket 120amp jap brand.

I must be doing v-band wrong as I find my new vband setup much harder to remove/install over my old 4 bolts (x2). Horizontal access is really limited for the turbo vs coming from the top for the T4 flange on my old setup. I do really like no gaskets and being able to position the turbo though. I went a bit silly and used VBands through exhaust system, some of which I want to switch back to flanged now for fix position and lets say more flexible "tolerances"

Looks like they are just new covers ?

going to be interesting to see how my kelfords 80lb go, cars running but yet to see dyno

Yes @GTSBoy iron, sorry not sure what was going on in my brain. Thanks for your reply, good info. I thought iron was 4.5 on Mohs and Nickel 4, making it slightly less hard. Appreciate that is considered a less reliable way of measuring hardness.

Sooooo I re-watched this video and I have questions .... On a second watch this really does look like a video beat up of N1 and sales pitch for braces. The N1 block is claimed (my understanding) >Have 1mm thicker deck - Confirmed in video >Have higher Nickel content ... not addressed >Be stronger around cylinder 3 and 4 - not addressed other than visual inspection >Have modified internal water and oil passages for better flow - not addressed other than visual inspection The video did claim it was less hard, which I thought would suggest it has nickel, as nickel is less hard than cast steel ? Does hardness really stop a block cracking ? or is metallurgy a thing here ? I would of thought a hardness test of a billet block would be 30% less than a cast ? Also not aware that N1 was ever supposed to be thicker cylinder walls, so that is expected to be the same. THOUGHTS ???

I drive mine weekly(when its working haha) and sometimes to work. The loud car in the carpark is already a thing, idling it would be the next amusement for people. Also who wants to stay at work longer than they have to. *off to understand oil pre-heaters ....google time.

I am very similar, not wanting a monster, just want something that won't break. I look at the value now of a good running RB26 and wonder if i am better off selling and building billet before I put a crack in and its junk yard. I also really likes the idea of dropping 20kg from the car, losing weight in a proper street car is not easy and it all makes a difference. Not so sure about the weight saving though, now your adding pumps. The warming the car up is not ideal. It has me re-thinking a lot.

Spool is one thing I am happy with so far with the g35-1050. It makes 21psi before 4500 on a stock rb26(e85). I always tend to quote 15 psi, which is at 4150, slight earlier than my old school gt3582(4300). Hopefully i will see that improve 300ish rpm with VCAM, which should make it a very responsive setup. Just need the top end

Just showing off now with your 3 litre

It has arrived and in the car. It is a thing of beauty and without a doubt the best intercooler I have seen in person. The welds are spot on and the open mouth on the inlet side is very well done. It is crazy light too, much lighter than a factory core. Only issue has been the outlet is a good 85mm and the factory hose did not want to go back on. So a custom pipe was made. Which works out ok anyhow as I am using plazmaclamps everywhere. Will report back again once the car has been tuned.

Do i read correctly you gained about 250rpm faster spool and made more power ?

Funny enough i was scrolling through a year of PMC's posts looking for info. Found the one you posted above, thanks you have been very helpful. here is the video in the above post for anyone else interested

It's interesting as when I spoke to bullet, they said i could drop my current rotating assembly into the billet block, as it was same same. I guess we didn't get into the specifics of bearing clearance, nor did he mention external oil pump requirement at the time.

Thanks. Just to be clear, the bearing clearances are larger due to billet ? or due to the power levels people usually chase with these blocks ? Trying to understand what the difference is here between say an Sr20 cast alloy block.

Interested in Billet block information in regards to oil setup. Given how many 4wd rb26 blocks I have seen crack and even one with an engine brace. The billet block seems like a really good option for a reliable motor you can launch. I do however want to keep my car very street focused, I want to run AC and I also don't like cutting holes in it. I have been told that the billet blocks require external oil pumps and so far the only explanation is that the billet blocks need a lot of oil pressure. The other thing, which is more of an issue is that I was also told they need to be dry sump. Would be great for someone to explain the need for external oil pump and anyone actually know if you can run wet sump ?

I found this interesting

interesting, doesn't look like the g35 1050 has much over the 900.

SO THIS ... is a lot more promising. G35-900 on a 2jz 1.01 rear. Low boost is U98 and high is E85 Does suggest I will be well into 35 psi range on the wee 2.6 but numbers are impressive.

Ha, I thought exact same, those results are like nothing I have seen before. Yes it would have been very interesting to see what it could have made on the same boost numbers. I was also taken back by the difference in spool on the g35 and would have loved to see the step down in housing to .82.

So this is a lot to take in .... The housing on the g30 , just mad, not what i expected at all. Still the g35 on race fuel is not making numbers I want to see

Well Coolant pressure increased significantly under + boost. Enough to bypass rad cap Coolant pressure normal under low load conditions and no overheating. Head off and you can see where it was bypassing the cylinder ring to coolant chamber on both head and gasket. Head cracked tested and serviced, all good. Block was only visually inspected, so please god ... let that be ok You could argue that is a Head gasket failure but it was still very much a complete unbroken gasket. So suggests some stretch on the factory head bolts. I know others that have had the same as above and not even taken the head off, just put in studs and continued on for years.