Butters

I agree with go for the twin if you are worried about power, for the extra cost it holds a lot more. You lose no drive-ability, nor does it get loud. So only downside is the wallet. Unless you have one already, then carry on ...

With changing to mild / Ti , I tend to agree hence asking the question. I don't know or can find enough about the heat properties of the materials to understand. The bonnet vents make a lot of sense and what you say about creating a flow does too. I said carbon bonnet, as i don't want to cut my factory one, these things are getting rare.

This is what i mean in regards to inconel shielding

I have a cefiro with a g35-1050 on a 6b00ber. It is a black car with ABS and aircon still in place. I drive the car on the street and sit in traffic. I am having really high underbay temps , so hot you can't even touch the strut tower even on a winters day. Everything is ceramic coated(inside and out), turbo has a nappy and the dump pipe(made in stainless) is also heat wrapped. I have another car that is similar, ceramic coated and it seems to work MUCH better than this car, both done by the same place but some years apart. It works so well i can touch the dump pipe while the car is running, it is not even heat wrapped, nor does the turbo have a nappy. The only difference between the two cars the the one that works well is a mild steel dump, ceramic coated. Things I am considering and would be interested in advice on : 1> Swapping to a mild steel dump 2> trying the inconel heat shielding on the 6boost and dump 3> Titanium dump ? 4> Carbon bonnet with vents above turbo 5> other suggestions ? When the car run twins it was very hot on the hot side but the heat didn't bleed into the body like it does now. #waits to hear how this is all my fault

The atessa unit under the rear parcel shelf has a light on it. A series of blinks gives you a number that is a fault code. On this forum is the code numbers and the fault. It can range from really easy to solve to very damn hard. Mine fell in the hard category, multiple codes and after fixing some I just replaced the setup with a full race unit and never looked back

I am running a getrag with 4.11s . Really like it for a street car, as a race car i'd be changing out to 3.7. 4.3 I think is going to far unless you are building a motorkhana car.

I;m guessing you are not staging the pumps then ? or have you added some wiring mods to the factory hat also ?

Just note fitting one in a 32 is a bastard, I'd assume the same with the 33. The pull type clutch with damper is a good amount thicker meaning clearing the nose of the box is hard work. Some people clearance tunnel as a result. Converting to push type seems to make this a bit part a bit easier. You will need to make up some transmission mount spacers as the mounts on the body are different too.

Thanks for the above reply I tend to agree. I have really struggled to find a suspension shop I am happy with. These guys did make basic mistakes. ------------------------- Given how this conversation has gone and what I have learned, I really think these are track car only. I have bushes going into standard arms today

never used one myself - https://rawbrokerage.com/products/collins-rb25-rb26-engine-to-350z-z33-370z-z34-transmission-adapter A bit more too it as well than just an adapter plate.

Just see it from my point, the simple fact I am typing the next list is suggests your focus is on the wrong outcome. I have no issue to accept that it may be setup wrong, by me and it resulted in this failure. Your assumption that I am a numpty is the problem. > Researched options and spoke to people that own them > Spoke to GKTech about my intended purpose being road use. > Installed, followed instructions > Had professional suspension place(road and race) go over all suspension prior to engineering. > Engineer reviewed all suspension, photographed, signed off and submitted to DOT (yes inc camber arms) > DOT carried out a full inspection of vehicle, again including these arms. Driving normal road ... *Snap. Throughout all this process not a single mechanic, engineer or inspector saw an issue. As I said, they could have been setup wrong, yes I might have done it(I don't think so). The suspension place was explicitly asked to check. If it had bound on setup, i would have also expect it to fail closer to install, not 6 months later. It would suggest more likely to me a regular checking of product is required, the product is not suitable for road use(even with engineering) or a fault of the product has occurred here. It is from what I see an unusual event, so if you are correct it is a setup issue, then it is a really good learning for others that should be shared.

I installed, video instructions followed and made sure it was nice and free as per instructions. No signs of binding and you can see it was running centre on. Well until it failed of course Your comment is out of line on who's fault this is. If a small setup issue is going to result in such catastrophic failure that could have easily resulted in a vehicle crash. The company of the product needs to REALLY step up on the level of warnings and instructions. If this is a failure from a as you state, easy to make setup issue I am also surprised I found no more examples of it when looking to buy. I can tell you, had I, I would have gone with a bush kit. *awaits to hear how picture proves it was setup wrong .....

Sooo I bought these after recommendations on threads like these. The joint snapped at the shaft, light driving, straight line at 50kmh. Had been in car 6months, no track days. Contacted GKTech and they are sending me a "more robust bearing". Which is now on all the arms. Not sure if I am going to use them or switch to rubber bush, mine is a street car so i may have gone to far going with these.

Passed it with an RB26 stock cams, big turbo, once on U98 and just recently on E85. E85 is easier. Euro 4 cat helps. Closed loop also helps.

600 hp at the crank, so 500ish at the wheels. Very doable with 18-20psi. This is mostly about the 4wd system but does show engine dyno work

You can get an OS Giken gearset at a fair price these days, sure you might have to wait. You can also get syncro box's from others. Built without the frills you are well under 10k for any of the above. I agree dog is not street due to service life, you can drive it on street but you can't do LOTS of driving. I almost went PAR due to the ratio's on OS/PPG but ended finding an R34 getrag. Big power = Big driveline and $$

@joshuaho96 has a good point. Likely designed for around that 600hp range. The only thing to consider is technology has moved a long long way in 30 years. Better turbos, fuels, ecu, materials and machining give us more than what it was designed for

Running 600+hp on an rb26 for 13 years(100k stock bottom end), albeit low km's. The block cracking seems to have a relationship to the 4wd setup. So hard to compare to JZ. Video tests do suggest JZ is king though. So are you RWD or 4Wd ? The stock gear will hold a lot. Oil pump gears for limiter lovers. Rods and oil drain for rev's Sump for track You really should see the condition of some of the engines that die(poor oil changes) or the abuse they have taken (100s of track days on limiter). Regular oil changes, solid tune. RB's live a long time. I plan on running my stock long motor at this level with 4wd as a weekender, so let you know how I go GTSboy point is really relevant here though, gone are the days of a $1500 rb25 you didn't care about beating up on. The $$ on this gear now is more than ever.

Yes it sits different and adjusts the pinion angle as a result. Angle still measured up fine though on mine. This is not a like for like swap, it is a cheap gktech kit (Oh and noting the GKTECH r33 subframe into s13 kit actually tells you to bash your chassis with a hammer for clearance ..... WTF !! We notched the subframe instead. ) I was not happy with axle height drop that was a result of the rear bolt position and yes likely the front also. It is all working well though thus far but only limited use.

Neat gearbox's make ratios. I have a 350z diff in an r33 frame in an s13 .... haha The offset front bushes worked a treat. The rear housing ones not so much. I think a custom rear cover with two bolts would be the best way, with correct alignment for the r33 style holes. Oh and for awareness also, I learned there are at LEAST 2 types of 350z diff housings, given the wide spread of ratio's the offset is different in the front to accomodate different sized pinions.

Oh bummer, I missed the push conversion notes ! As for pricing, seen the price for R34 GTR stuff lately ... haha

I have been searching for a clutch that ticks all the box's. I found RPS make these for the supra - https://www.realstreetperformance.com/rps-carbon-triple-disc-carbon-9-3-inch-steel-flywheel-2jz-gte-supra-getrag-v160.html Big HP Streetable NO RATTLES Getrag friendly Light / stock pedal. Pull Type. I have spoken to real street and they said they would be interested in collaborating with RPS to make a BNR34 version if we have 5+ orders. I might be dreaming but would there be others here interested in such an item ?

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. Everything they sell rattles though. Also have to do pull to push conversion. Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge.

So the stories of people trashing them on install are a thing of past now ? Should I expect much slip ?