SimonR32

But of course... Already up and running, just need a tune

Bit of an update for those who don't know or haven't heard... Took it to the drags for a run as there was a small leak from the front of gearbox and I guessed the rear main seal had cried enough. I figured if I went to the drags I'd probably break another box so would just fix 2 birds with one stone. Like a special child I left it in RWD first run and then did a lazy 10.8 @ 135mph but motor didn't feel 100%. Noticed it was on 5cyl under brakes (couldn't tell when it was on gate) and turned onto the return road to a small knock. It almost instantly went away so figured I was hearing things but when I got back to the pits I checked the logs and it was well down on boost (3-4psi from memory). So naturally figured I should just turn it up a little so adjusted the wastegate duty cycle a bit higher. Turned car back on to a reasonable size knock, shut it straight down and called Turner over. Turned it back on to a massive knock, shut it down again and then got it towed. Have been spending the last few months slowly stripping current motor and putting the parts on my spare stocker, found number 6 spark plug was closed so we just assumed that it had done the big end bad enough that the piston had hit the spark plug. I grabbed some new cams, same lift but smaller duration to try and get a bit more response. I also swapped the head studs over, the new motor has a stock head gasket so will be interesting to see how well that hangs on. Fast forward to last weekend and we pulled out the old motor and put in the new one, so will just get that tuned soon and back good to go. Motor top end is actually very quiet compared with the previous one but that may be due to the following... So when the motor came out we pulled off the cam cap of number 6 and the bearing was good, which made us WTF for about 10 sec till we found one of the inlet valve guides missing. Simples, RB26's are fairly well known for that, but today I figured I'll pull the head off and check out the damage to head, piston and bore to find this; and then found that another 5 guides had dropped in cylinders 2-5 (number 1 was the only one not f**ked), number 3 had dropped both inlet valve guide. Funny thing is that they all had carbon build up over the damage, as I've always run on E85 it seems to point that they have all been f**ked since before it came from Japan! Regardless, 4 pistons and combustion chambers have had damage from mashing the valve guide inside the bore for a fair while unknown to anyone but still happy to smash out 740hp all day haha

What head studs are $200? ARP2000 are double that!

Stock 2.6 FTW! Then you hit 3 years of hard motorsport and cry when it dies... Then you realise that most built motors don't even last that long and you have saved enough from not building a motor to buy a Golf R as a daily

Very interesting! I assume you are saying the c70 and c50 are similar times?

You just won at SAU!!!

It's calculated on time from close to open to close. Over 100% basically means they never close fully Standard 3bar from memory plus a health 30psi bump when it comes on boost haha

Injectors, like others have said don't match the power My 1250's are totally maxed out at similar hp on what some would say is a generous dyno (when I say totally maxed out they run over 120% duty haha)

That's a fairly naive view, the sump sits directly between the two front wheels. Although it's not impossible to hit, you have to be fairly pro to manage it

Fatz is onto it! Stocker with ARP head studs, Reimax oil pump, Ati balancer and Trust sump swapped over then party

Went down to the drags because I had a small rear main seal leak and figured I'd lunch a gearbox so kill 2 birds at once. It didn't feel 100% on first pass (went 10.8 @ 135mph so was definitely down on power) and then the motor felt a little rough on the way back to pits. Checked logs and bosst was down 3-4psi, played with the boost control settings in Vipec and started back up to a small tick. Shut down straight away, rang my mate who helps with the car and by the time he wandered back (a few min) it had cooled down a bit more. Started back up to very big knock and shut down straight away again. It's either a bad big end or a rod bolt has let go. Motor is still in the car but will come out soon hopefully, it lasted about 6000kms of basically track only use for 3 years so can't be disappointed with that. I've been savage on it the last few months holding 4th gear until 9000rpm running 2bar down the back straight at Barbagallo so I've got a fair idea why it has cried enough haha

So my motor finally let go with the Grex (Trust) drop in cams (never knew if they were 256 or 264), the RB26 makes 740hp at the hubs at 2bar of boost with a Precision 6262. As I don't have dial in specs for them I decided now was as good a time as any to buy some Tomei Poncam Type R to search for some lower end power. These arrived on friday and gave me some motorvation to start stripping my current spare motor on Sunday... To my luck I pulled out the cams and measured them, found they were a little too big for stockers so googled the stamped number on them, turns out they are Tomei Poncam Type B. So now I have 3 sets of drop in cams Grex 256 and or 264 9.1mm Tomei Type B 260 9.1mm Tomei Type R 250 9.1mm Decisions.... hmmmm

So a single high mount?

My wear seems to be exaggerated a little to be honest. Too much pressure and they wear very quickly in the middle, any less and the side walls don't seem to be stiff enough and they roll onto the sidewall heavily causing very high wear on the outer edges. I'm up for a new set of something at the moment but the motor finally died last week so will be a while before I get back to the track.

Yeah I've had my C70s and I reckon they lasted half the time if not less than A050 Medium and I'm not convinced they are that much faster, they are also cheaper but not half the price.

OS Giken Triple Plate with steel cover (not ally as they seem to be bitches) 2 x 3rd gears, 1 input shaft and 1 5th/reverse selector. They are actually pretty tough if you don't smash gear changes and use redline lighweight shockproof

No objections here haha

Few weeks ago at Barbagallo again, ran 2 x 60.5's in a row which is a little off my PB but tyres have seen better days. Interesting that I ran high boost (just under 2 bar) compared to the normal 1.5bar and held 4th to limiter on back straight instead of using 4th. Picked up 18kmhr just doing this which puts me right up there with the quickest cars I've ever seen logged down the straight.

As per the title, can someone with stock camber arms and traction rods please measure their length bolt hole to bolt hole. I had the measurements but somehow they have gone missing and I need them for an alignment tomorrow. Would be much appreciated. Cheers Simon

More than that with peaks well over 2 according to 10hz GPS

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stock bottom end, venting the sump works

Nice photos, that colour really works well on a 32

First time with 2 bar of boost on the track... Interesting!!! That was at the last round of the WA Sprint Championship, holding off a few quick R32 GTRs and all those Evos/WRXs to get both the overall win and class win for the season.

Nothing wrong with the standard bottom end, as you said just wack a set of ARP2000 studs and also maybe some drop in cams and away you go!

All the new ones are now fancy colour LED LCDs so even this is old school! Great to have basically everything directly in view and not need any gauges