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Everything posted by arep3
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My Restoration
arep3 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
cheers mate -
When I was looking for a new speedo for my GTR a lot of people told me that I MUST buy the correct year speedo that fits my car. (89 mdl.) I found a full Nismo 320km/h cluster set on Yahoo Japan going cheap so I bought it. I was told it would fit an 89mdl. It didnt.... There is little difference in the speedo itself from what I can see. Just a revised version. Apart from the speed sensor. This little sucker controls how strong the power steering is VS the speed you are travelling. If you got caught out with the different year speedo like me, this is how to swap the sensors around. Tools needed: A small phillips head screwdriver. (magnetic tipped would be a great help) Yep thats it! Now the fun part... I'd recommend a really clean workbench or desk, a steady clean set of hands and a lot of patience. Don't touch the speedo face as it leaves fingermarks on it and it's damn near impossible to remove them. There's clear plastic 'handles' on the sides of the speedo. I used them. 1 The 89 mdl speed sensor has 3 screws holding it onto the speedo. Undoing the top screw (closest to the face) will allow the trip meter to fall out. It doesnt matter if it comes off as its easy to put back on later. I removed mine on purpose so i didnt accidently drop and damage it. Undo all 3 screws and carefully remove the sensor. The 3 screws must stay with the sensor as they are longer then the other sensor's screws. 2 With the newer 90+mdl speedo, there is only 1 screw holding on the sensor. You will need to remove the screw that holds on the trip meter to screw on the older sensor. The screw that holds on the trip meter will need to go with the newer sensor as its too short to hold the older sensor on. 3 Now it's just a matter of carefully putting the older sensor onto the newer speedo. I found it easier to put the single screw on the side opposite of the sensor on first, to hold the sensor while I was doing the fiddly screws on the other side. The trip meter goes on first, then the sensor and finally the longer screw. When fitting the old sensor, you need to have 1 copper arm on each side of the tall gearing stalk. Fit all 3 screws to the sensor and speedo and your finished. I fitted the newer sensor to the older speedo and boxed it away in case i need it 1 day. The sensor wont get damaged like that. Easy enough? If anybody has any questions or wanna add to this, feel free to PM me. Cheers, Ron
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My Restoration
arep3 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
they had this tool that the restrictor plug fitted into. they just pushed it into the pipe as far as it would go then tightened it up. i think the restrictor punches the piping to lock itself in place. i saw the guy do it once... pain in the arse though as i was filling up 1 day and i was thinking "shit shes empty today" then a guy told me i was leaking. not a nice way to find a hole in your fuel pipe. that was the first time in ages ive been full on embarrassed -
My Restoration
arep3 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
what did you do to the fuel tank? im thinking ill get it cleaned out when the motor is getting rebuilt. the fuel filler pipe has a hole in it from when the car was complianced... i cant fully fill it as the car will laek fuel everywhere when its on the slightest angle. -
My Restoration
arep3 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
deren try sydney kid. i personally haven't bought any suspension stuff off him but when i got the money ill be getting the works off him. from coilovers to pineapples. direct deposit and its on the way. he has group buys on here if your interested. -
Hope these help
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My Restoration
arep3 replied to Godzilla32's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
you shouldnt need any luck mate! you have'nt so far!! -
21 is the outside air sensor. 25 is the sunload sensor. the sunload sensor will always give you an error code unless its in full sunlight. the pic that i posted in this thread IS the mode door actuator. it controls the vents (head, feet, half way and demist/window) it is not repairable.... a new one from nissan is gonna be around the $200 mark and they want full payment before they will order it from japan. so its still gonna be a 10 day wait before it shows after you've paid for it. i did find one at a wrecker though and they want $80 for it. if my car was working and i didnt need to save for my rebuild, i would have replaced it by now. and then i could tell you if it worked or not....
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25 is the sunload sensor. its located in the left hand (passenger side) corner of the dashboard. id suggest to retest the cc in full sunlight as that error code will come up on a cloudy day.
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i hope so al. im gonna be stuck helping the girlfriend with stuff so you guys have a blast! i hope it doesnt rain too much (til tomorrow anyways!)
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i do own a 32gtr. i would say that if u havnt spent any money on a gtr, then jeez u must be the luckiest car owner ever! im talking about little things like steel coolant piping, rubber hoses (that are damn near impossible to get to) little annoying things that keep the car running. or things like speedo calbes... they are a pain in the arse! then theres drivers issues. like trying so hard to keep under the speed limit... the cars just wanna go. in the end, is it worth buying a gtr? yes a massive money pit. yes its WAY too easy to speed in it and you can be like a lot of gtr drivers (suspended or lossed license) yes its worth it!
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weather report i got this morning says around 50mm is expected this afternoon for the western and eastern districts. sorry for the bad news. lets hope the weather guys are wrong like usual and we get that rain tomorrow
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you CANNOT trim or cut plates in anyway. BUT, theres nothing written down (as far as i know so dont hold me to it) about bending the plates to fit. i have never seen a 32 with straight plates on the back. they just wont fit
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yea its cable driven. there is a sensor on the back of your speedo that adjusts the strength of the power steering vs the speed you are travelling at. from what you say, it sounds like the cable has snapped. its just a matter of getting a new cable (nissan sells them for around $100) pull out the dash board. follow the cable from there to the gearbox and replace it. easy fix to all of the probs
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wish i could joiin in the fun but motor need rebuild... wish i could drive there, umm long story! is there anybody in east melb out my way that can gimmie a lift there so i can watch? im out in pakenham but can catch a train along my line
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theres a few of us tradies on here mate. ive been qualified for 2 years now. i think 6 years is long enough though. maybe time for a career change... and no not into IT
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i got the redline lightweight shockproof in both diffs, gbox and transfer case. i bought it from bursons. ive never had any problems with it. runs beautifully
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1600 after tax is what ive heard. if your really interested in this then google is your friend. the bloke i talked to about it was doing 12 hr shifts for 10 days straight then had 5 or 6 days off. the mining company supplies accomodation etc for you as well.
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kane if its for a model after an 89, the back will look different to the speedo that come out of ur car. easy to change parts over. any speedo for a 32 is suited, just slight modifications needed between years... PM me for more info.
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no qualification needed and u will earn plenty to buy an R32GTR. trust me, ur gonna need the $ to have a 32GTR...
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anybody want money, go work in the mines in WA. big $$$$
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mate u gotta be careful of drop bears... they drop outta the trees and slice your stomach open! damn dangerous! LOL
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im a fully qualified wood machinist and i umm machine wood
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i got the blitz nur r spec. loud as!
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nissan dealerships if you have the money