phatmonk

Redline oils and the Oil Store Thought these guys deserve a mention. Gary at the Oil Store went out of his way to get me some Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Looking at their website they service Melbourne and I am happy with the price and they courier. performancelub.com comes in under the Oil Store prices but sometimes I prefer to pay for bricks, mortar and service! Cheers

Thank you for that. My manual doesn't seem to have that section! Time to look for another PDF

Price negotiable.

New OEM are as good as any other. Hunt around, they are often cheaper too. Have a read here, it might save you $500 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468120-misfire-under-load-rebuilding-coil-packs/

With knock sensors listening, like a stethoscope, for a particular frequency (pinging) I understand it doesn't matter where on the block it is bolted to?

Went looking for this in the manual but couldn't find it. What page is it on? I'm probably blind, sorry for the amateur question. Cheers.

Bump

Hi, I started a thread not long ago about misfiring under medium to heavy acceleration. Poking around I had really odd results testing the resistance on the coil pack ignitor. It lead me to believe the ignitor was faulty; replaced this and the problem didn't go away. I'm still curious what the resistance of other ignitors are... when I get a multimeter I'll test the re-furb unit too. In short, here is what i did: Replaced the ignitor - same. Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES-11 - same Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES - better but still same same Checked for un-metered air. Found K&N oil from the panel in the air box. Replaced with paper filter, cleaned AFMs with CRC AFM cleaner - marginally better with the BCPR6ES in there. Inspected the coil packs. No cracking. Did some reading about coil packs and had a penny drop moment. Basically, two things: The coils packs, as in the induction coils in the unit itself generally work, or don't. Rule of thumb, there are examples of them failing but not for this post. So, in my case the coil pack fires, and it works. It's the plastics around the pack that break down. Sometimes visibly, other times not. Stumbled onto a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qirx_G4x5i0 Guy with an Aussie accent. I'd be shocked if he isn't on SAU. If you are out there and read this, chime in and take credit. Bought a second hand set of coil packs, some contact cleaner and 2x 7g tubes of dielectric grease. Pulled the coil packs out and apart, sprayed everything with contact cleaner. Then a generous ring of dielectric grease around where the pack flanges out and also underneath the flange. Put the clean springs back in, slid the plastic part nozzle on with another run of dielectric grease around the base. To be sure. Could have been done easily with one tube but being super generous and ended up using a tiny part of the second tube. On the first drive, oh my! How different the car feels. Smoother acceleration, less backfiring from the exhaust, better (smoother?) engine sound and no misfiring. Looking at the old coil packs. See the below pictures. The rim has oxidized, the springs are dirty (pics don't show it) and inside the coil are black marks... If the OEM coils are as good as anything aftermarket, I'd spend the $30 on parts and in an hour it'll be like new. A run of dielectric grease is on my maintenance list whenever I do plugs. HTH someone else.

While the defibrillator is charged. The mats, I'm keen. I'd also be keen on the coil pack/center valley cover?

Bump.

True @89CAL, can't tell the timing without actually checking it. I just found it odd that it's waaaay off the 20 degree mark... but hey, it's running fine. I'll need to put a few more KMs on it, but I think the misfire is gone. Swapped the K&N panel filter with the old filter and all the problems just went away. Swapped the old filter with a new one and so far so good. Air, fuel or spark. Back to basics hey.

Bump.

Update. Went looking for un-metered air, found oil from the K&N panel filter in airbox. A substantial quantity. Pulled the airbox, cleaned the AFMs and had the filter on paper towel overnight. Took it for a drive, it is still missing (more like popping, at a guess it is unburnt fuel) under boost. Might just replace with a paper filter. Replaced the plugs with a set of BCPR6ES, no -11, and even better but still missing. Did a visual inspection of the CAS and timing. Besides missing a bolt on the bottom of the CAS, it looks out. Don't have a timing light, so can't do an actual reading. Could someone chime in?

Just SMSed RE: coil pack loom if you still have it? Making sure, this is the loom from the igniter to the each of the coils?

@Scott Black if you have some time, knowing the resistance across the pins would be awesome?

Thanks @MrStabby and @V28VX37. Somehow this double posted mid typing. Here is what I found (and posted in the other thread here): Testing as per the above, pins (cylinders) 1 to 6 tested at 500 ohms +/- 10 ohms per pin. What raised an eye brown, the video tested at 8 Mohms. The two units are waaayyyy different but who knows which one is right. It would be good for some more results. Testing in reverse. each pin read open - sweet. Here is where things start getting interesting. Quoting the electronics buff who's multimeters we used, we were testing the "forward junction voltage on the base emitter" - this isn't covered in the above video and honestly, nfi, but it sounds good. Pins 1 to 5 read 1.2v. Pin 6 read 0.6v. Testing across three multimeters and a transistor reader, this was consistent. Then, all of a sudden, all pins started reading 0.7v. So, something is wrong here and I ordered a refub unit.

Not sure what happened with the double post... anyhow, here are the results. Testing as per the above, pins (cylinders) 1 to 6 tested at 500 ohms +/- 10 ohms per pin. What raised an eye brown, the video tested at 8 Mohms. The two units are waaayyyy different but who knows which one is right. It would be good for some more results. Testing in reverse. each pin read open - sweet. Here is where things start getting interesting. Quoting the electronics buff who's multimeters we used, we were testing the "forward junction voltage on the base emitter" - this isn't covered in the above video and honestly, nfi, but it sounds good. Pins 1 to 5 read 1.2v. Pin 6 read 0.6v. Testing across three multimeters and a transistor reader, this was consistent. Then, all of a sudden, all pins started reading 0.7v. So, something is wrong here and I ordered a refub unit.

Ummm.. not sure what happened. The finished post is here:

Sort of off topic-ish.. sort of. I've skimmed the threads, people going from 1.1mm to 8mm gaps and vice-versa fixing problems (or not!). I figured that having a timing tune and exhaust with no extra boost keeping the stock 1.1mm gap would be fine. Anyhow, I hear you and it is on the list.

Yellow Jackets Ignitor Module and resistance test results Hi All, Keeping this short-ish, I'm chasing a misfire when on boost. Replaced the plugs. Interesting found BCPR7ES-11 in there from the last mechanic, no big deal. Anyhow, replaced with BCPR6ES-11. The air box has been out/in recently, Will check it's gone back on properly tomorrow with some light. Maybe it is un-metered air. I hope it's not the AFMs, been through 4 sets... But, I have a feeling it is the 20+ year old coil packs and/or ignitor module. Found this (awesome!) video on how to test the ignitor module, again I'll give it a crack tomorrow. So, here are a few questions: - Anyone tested their ignitor module like this before and care to share results? Think, a yard stick besides what is in the video. - Anyone using Yellow Jackets ignitor modules? Keen on comments for the R32/33 GTR unit, but I'll take anything. What I've noticed about their coil packs, asides from amazing service (Performance Wise) replacing failed units, it is hit and miss. When it is hit, they are good. I can't find anything about the ignitor packs to make my mind up. - Comments on refurb OEM units? See eBay link Pricing up the ignitor pack. SuperCheap - $1600+ (OMG!). Kudos - about $600. Refurb - $400. Yellow Jackets - $200. Lastly, I'm a massive lurker here. Heaps of thanks for the great info here. Cheers!

Yellow Jackets Ignitor Module and general ignitor module questions Hi All, Keeping this short, I'm chasing a misfire when on boost. Replaced the plugs. Interesting found BCPR7ES-11 in there from the last mechanic, no big deal. Anyhow, replaced with BCPR6ES-11. The air box has been out/in recently, Will check it's gone back on properly tomorrow with some light. Maybe it is un-metered air. I hope it's not the AFMs, been through 6 sets... But, I have a feeling it is the 20+ year old coil packs and/or ignitor module. Found this (awesome!) video on how to test the ignitor module, again I'll give it a crack tomorrow. So, here are a few quesitons:

FS - VIC - 4x new Bridgestone Potenza RE003 255x45x18s tyres The misfortune of driving away from a tyre shop only to realise too late these tyres rubbed in the guards... Less than 200km of Nana KMs, wide berth corners and three point turns these tyres are basically brand new. Located in Altona Meadows. New they are $350 each. Asking $300 each ($1200 for the set).

Wrong FS forum... Could an Admin move pls?

The misfortune of driving away from a tyre shop only to realise too late these tyres rubbed in the guards... Less than 200km of Nana KMs, wide berth corners and three point turns these tyres are basically brand new. Located in Altona Meadows. New they are $350 each. Asking $300 each ($1200 for the set).

This post is what caught my attention. Was looking for before/after dyno runs and here is one. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377984-engine-carbon-cleaning-review/