260DET

Pretty sure that a Patrol has a one and 1/16" BMC so the one I have may not have a prop valve. Shouldn't be too hard to remove the piston and see what if anything is behind it.

All I know is that the BMC is a 1 and 1/16" Nissan non ABS unit, need to know how to tell if it has a internal proportioning valve and if so how to remove it. See, nice short simple question

Sprints obviously, bloody hell where does all that 2 WD grip come from, great lap. Any probs with the Tremec?

How's this dash going for you? Haltech no longer offer the IQ3 display dash which I'd just decided to get so this DASH2 is of interest now.

lol I got banned from PF for calling that ' f**k off if you know more than me' mod a dick head. No worries

Have spent a couple of hours googling for a simple formula based on master cylinder sizes to total caliper piston sizes with no luck, that would be handy for both options. For the boosted option I do have some info on a MC size that should work, for the manual option nothing. Cost is not relevant, a new booster and MC is probably more expensive.

True but I tend not to be a man sometimes although Porsche's have brake boosters and real men drive Porsche's.....

Dedicated race car, the choice is between the standard type master cylinder, a booster and a proportioning valve, and, a non boosted system with one or two master cylinders. My main concern is that the non boosted system will require too much pedal pressure which will deaden brake feel, the boosted system on a similar car works well for me and is easy to modulate. I know that no booster is cool and offers more scope for balance with two cylinders but I don't want a heavy pedal. Experiences?

Lol, what's this new trailer called, B Double? Solar powered fridge is good, the lift pump battery on my trailer is charged by solar power which saves a lot of stuffing around on a trip.

It saves weight if you don't carry beer with you, buy it at the destination. My point is a modern medium/large suv makes a great tow bitch, way better dynamics, fuel economy and comfort compared with most ladder frame 4x4's. Particularly something with a V6 turbo diesel, struggling for power is a pain on a long trip..

Most of us tow race cars not buses Fat car 1,500 + trailer 500 = 2,000kg. Actually my Z is around 1,200kg and that's a bit on the heavy side. I do travel light, no spare set of tyres etc, if you want to get that pro get a truck.

Tyrepower sell Nankangs, they got me a pair. But there seems to be parallel imports too, check ebay.

Go the Yeep

Got to be careful what I say here but 'someone I've heard about' tows with an Audi Q5 Sport V6 diesel, at speeds acceptable on one of them autobarns. Well why not have some fun on the road when interstating, they are a disgrace safety wise anyway.

Just because you have a sequential shift like this one does not mean the car has to be driven like it's a big dollar race box, it can be shifted at the same speed as usual. Sure shifting will require a bit of learning but so does double declutching which plenty of drivers can't do well yet still manage to do decent times without wrecking gearboxes. A strain gauge setup could be fitted but I don't think that anyone is claiming that for a full on race use this is the best shifter. Yet to see any coherent argument that this sequential would not suit someone who particularly wants a sequential shift but realises this one's limitations. Because it will work within those limitations.

Finally sold the S12 eh, I was interested in it at one stage but at that time the flexy chassis and semi trailing arm rear suspension put me off. Now I'd give it a go having since learnt lots about that suspension and a derivative.

Sequential would be rubbish in traffic but for a bit of track time for someone who likes a sequential this Bremer shifter makes a lot of sense. A dog box sequential is something else again, in outlay and in use, it certainly would be more awkward to use in traffic. Don't know about Nissan boxes but for Tremecs there are shift enhancements available including carbon fibre syncro rings so box life with them should be good. There is nothing fake here, it's an option which would make sense for some.

What has a H pattern got anything to do with it, all depends on the driver. With a dog box the shifts have to be hard and fast as the video above showed, with a syncro box it's easier on the syncros if the shift is made a bit slower which can be done using that sequential conversion. Drivers bang through shifts on a H pattern box all the time, the syncros don't care which pattern the shifter is. Too much bandwagoning and not enough thinking going on here.

Lots of negative here, if you don't like a sequential then fine but plenty of race pros prefer them and when watching in car videos you can see why. Depending on driver skill then the syncros will be a serviceable item just like the dogs are in a dog box. Phil in the mighty 280ZX with a Quaife sequential dog box.

Just did some googling, Haltech list the IQ3 street dash for $1,199.

Have ordered one of these Reveltronics Utcomp Pro programmable dashes https://www.reveltronics.com/en/products/universal-trip-computer-utcomp which will be connected to the required sensors rather than the Elite. The idea is to highlight speed and revs for the track car , the supporting info like temps will be scrollable. A oil pressure alarm is required, might do this separately or through a Ecliptech 2 shift light system which has that feature. Physically it will all be set up above the steering column with a shift light like the Ecliptech sitting on top of the Utcomp Pro.

Nah, that was the old Grand Cherokee, the Mercedes job. My Cherokee is not Grand lol and the recent Grand Cherokee's are a great tow pig according to a couple I know of.

Yeh my Cherokee is rock solid towing at any speed including braking down hill, the PB Challenger diesel was a POS compared. The C's long wheelbase with the rear wheels close to the towing point and generally good dynamics helps a lot.Engine just needs a chip.

Wow, so much advice, I'm overwhelmed lol. Anyway from what I've learnt the Haltech dash will only read from the ECU, no outside inputs. Which would be fine for a lot of users but not my older car with an unusual feature. So what else? After googling around Racepak came up, they are sold by Haltech here which is handy. For my unusual purpose the Ultradash Extreme Replay at around $1450 seems the go, much more readable on the fly plus it has a 10 minute replay feature which could be handy. It's stand alone and works off the usual sensors and is not ECU dependant. And it is not ugly.

That trailer looks like it weighs a ton but of course it depends on the distances you tow and the load as to how relevant weight is. My 500kg Tilta Trailer is brilliant, solar panel keeps the battery charged, from Qld it's been to PI and Bathurst twice, slight buckle in one alloy wheel after hitting a monster pot hole at speed.