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niZmO_Man

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niZmO_Man last won the day on May 9

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    BNR32, F45

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  1. I can't speak from experience, but the best thing I did on my BMW Active Tourer (screen wise) was to buy a Linux screen off aliexpress and replace the standard unit. Perhaps you can look into those options?
  2. I bought a BM57 in a sealed Nissan box off someone from here a few years ago, was like $500 so not that expensive.
  3. IMO: if you really want to keep the VQ, supercharge it. Otherwise, VR38DETT/VR30DETT conversion, or sell for a better base car. Or go wild with a V8 turbo conversion, or a Hartley V12...
  4. If you want some LMGT1s, let me know
  5. No shit I've fixed shudder/noise by slamming on the brakes a couple of times from 60-80 km/h. If they still made noise after that, take the pads out, rub on concrete floor/file the friction surface, install and bed in. Fixed like 3x QFM pads for me. Oh and if you're tracking it, never skimp out. You may recall my R31 at Oran Park many years ago with melted pads...
  6. Hell yeah! S12 underrated. I saw a magazine scan of a widebody long ago, can't find it. I think you should pump the guards, always looks good
  7. Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
  8. 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
  9. Genuine is best. I have to replace my SIL's Audi A3 DRL module because the $20 alibaba special one has faded within a month... Sigh...
  10. I owe you a lot, so will set aside R32 projectors for you. Once I get around to doing some retrofits lol. Posting it here so I can convince myself to stop talking shit and doing what I said I'll do. Not that you'll need them lmao.
  11. Welcome! I always recommend looking underneath the car, check chassis rails, jack points etc. Will save you a lot of headache. Don't get caught up in FOMO/over-enthusiasm, check the car thoroughly.
  12. no idea, just remember a red(ish) R32 GTS-t with a clutch plate through the bonnet lol.
  13. 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
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