niZmO_Man

Hahahahaha OP, get plain rotors from DBA or RDA, you won't notice the difference. Or DBA 4000 for some extra street cred. It'll cost a lot less than $1,000 per rotor.

Need more information than that mate. Tyres can easily be rethreaded (bad). How old are they (look on sidewall for some codes)? Condition of tyres? When I first got my R31, it had steering wobble at highway speeds and noise. Changed tyres + toe alignment = fixed.

GT-R bonnets are lighter than the rest of the R32. It could be too weak to hold them up.

RTA were pretty shit with these things.

My old R32 was completely standard. I changed the turbo to a NEO6 unit with RB20 actuator (10psi). It ran fine.

Maybe clean the AAC/IAC/whatever it's called? Maybe the gauge drops because the idle drops that low (voltage starvation?).

OEM rotor: http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=40206-12U00 Yes, that's $1,000+ per rotor lol.

1. Go here: http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/hcr32/3848-rb20d/?frame_no=hcr32-000000 2. Look for wiper, e.g.: http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/hcr32/3848-rb20d/body/288/?frame_no=hcr32-000000 3. Click on the part number(s) you're looking for, e.g. http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=2884101U00 If you're after pictures, look up jp-carparts, e.g. http://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=79&cartype=18&fig=288

Willing to post to Sydney? RE: skirts

What else have you done to the engine? Changed the spark plugs? Use the ECU that came with the engine.

Good price!

http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2r

The sad world we live in. This is why I don't drive my GT-R any more.

Good to hear. Alpine don't make cheap stuff, so working as expected eh?

Yeah I meant rolling diameter. Not sure how sensitive the R33 ATTESA is, but my R32 didn't like 3% variation. The way I see it, two tyres are cheaper than servicing the ATTESA

What tyres are they? Could be wheel alignment.

NSW?

Terry I have the same wheels, great fit . You will! I'm taking mine to the afterlife.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/442956-hicas-creating-havok/#entry7285312 Change/upgrade your battery terminals and the earth straps (goes to engine block from negative terminal). Open up your HICAS computer and check the circuits/for a loose screw.

Smurf's blood? Can't mix those nor dump them properly, apparently.

ATTESA = same size all round.

Plumb it in or put up with it (and the associated risks). I don't see the complication in that.

Ban this user

Nope. Offset doesn't determine brake clearance, spoke design does. Standard turbo Nissan wheels from the 90s are 6.5"+40. GT-R's are +30. If the wheels are a non-dish style (e.g. Driftek) then the lower offset is an indicator that it has good brake clearance (because the spokes would concave in more). You will have to look at the wheel backspace, it differs depending on manufactures (e.g. Rays wheels have heaps off room, compared to say a BBS knockoff). Offset determines where the wheel sits relative to the mounting surface.