niZmO_Man

If you searched and had a read around, you will find that people recommend Nismo twin plate for a road driven car.

Walk away from that tyre shop. You can buy 4 stud wheels that fit brand new for similar price. If you really want to go down that path, the 4 to 5 stud converter spacers will require lots of work to fit. Looking at about 3 hours labour. Factor that in as well. No they are not roadworthy.

Get your hellaflushstance crap out of here OP, not sure on the guards as I've never done it, but I think you can buy wider fibreglass guards and get them fitted (so I assume they will cut the standard guards to make more room). Ask yourself, do you really want to run 10" wide wheels and 265-285 wide tyres? You can easily fit 9" wide on the back and run 245-255 wide tyres.

Rajab is our son of rajab and saviour

no

www.r31skylineclub.com

Don't listen to the shop to begin with. In addition to #2, you can also buy wider guards and have them fitted. I would personally get 8" wheels for the front and sell the 10" wheels. You can then run 235 and 255 wide tyres (cheaper!).

Engine and gearbox together is usually easier. As mentioned, just service it. Check the condition of the timing belt anyway. Throw an R34 turbo on there, exhaust + Nistune. It bolts straight on.

Except the R32/R31 series 3 gearboxes have double synchros on 1st and 2nd, whereas the VL/R31 Series 1-2 ones don't. Not sure on the VLT boxes, but I think it's the same story. Also I believe the N/A R33 and R34 ones are same as R32 ones. IIRC.

Body kit is fine to me, it's all functional! Awesome, lets see how it stacks up to the competition.

^ repeating previous post. First step when you're having auto transmission issues is to service it! Change the oil and see how you go.

Hahah great reply. That's pretty much what happens on half the threads started on car forums (on every subject, not just clutches). Heaps of people run NPC clutches so go with them. If it stuffs up, you can get angry at NPC and the fanboys. If it works fine, you can become said fanboy

Pete dumps the oil after every track day, so I don't think the oil has time to break down and sludge. Helps when you have a trailer so you don't have to worry about driving it home . At the last track day, using Penrite Racing 10W-40, I was regularly hitting 130°C lol. Car still drove home fine, dumped the oil after as I didn't want to risk it. Oil was about 3,000 km when I hit the track lol.

My car runs great, over the past two years I daily drove it for a bit, AFMs were the only issue. It survived two track days lol, so yeah it is pretty reliable. Only bad side is the body is a bit rough (crushed jack points, fade on a rear guard, scratches and dents from other idiots). I'll want more than you're willing to pay for it though. Good luck in your hunt!

Pics of roof lining?

Rajab damn me! So tempting

Not sure, I haven't measured the gap between wheel and struts. But it looks like there isn't much room left. +25 *might* hit the struts depending on what you're running. Perhaps run a 9.5 +22? You can still slap 265/35/18 on them and it'll fit. Note that tyre design plays a part in fitment as well. The old Potenza tyres that came with the wheels had a more stretched design compared to the Falken FK452 on there at the moment. The Bridgestones fitted without rolling the guards, but the Falkens rubbed (bought a guard roller + heat gun and rolled the guards). I'm pretty sure R32 V-Spec BBS are 17x8 +30

Penrite Racing 10W-40

Looks good so far, plus for that price you can't complain!

GKTech arms are good quality. Hardrace are good quality as well.

^ As above, either get wider guards, sell the wheels and get 8's and 9's, or run hellastance and smash through your tyres. Since it's a track car, I recommend getting wheels that fit.

GTS-t calipers have ribbing on them, GT-R ones are smooth.

Aren't the Z tune Nismo LMGT4 wheels 18x10.5 +12?

Copper plugs cost around $3 each, the iridium and platinum ones are what, $30-40 each? What harm is there in trying copper? The expensive plugs last longer, but for the price offset I don't think they're worth it. Copper ones arc better anyway, and are cheap enough to replace every 30,000km or whenever.

Put a V8 in it. Or, you can turbo your RB30E, it's been done plenty of times. Have a search, look on the R31 Skyline Club as well. If you want twin cam, drop an RB25DET in and do the wiring. Worry about 3L bottom end later. But since you want a fast reliable car, spend $20k on a 25/30 + all other things required to make it reliable.