niZmO_Man

Not having a go at the K&N fans, but don't always believe the marketing and be sceptical. If the K&N has a better design and construction, better filter element, etc. then that's all great. If they add a magnet and a nut then charge extra $30 for essentially the same thing (or even inferior), is it really worth it? Not sure if you lot can see this, but on the R31 Skyline club, someone did a comparison of the Ryco and Nissan oil filter. Would be interesting to see the internals of the K&N and other filters. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=103539.msg975257#msg975257 *edit* ahh replies, cheers fellas.

What makes the K&N better than the Ryco besides the nut at the end of the casing? That's what we're after (well I'm after), justification on why Ryco or Nissan filter should be skipped a more expensive filter be purchased. Are we going off the belief that the more expensive one is better?

Dodgy private sellers don't have an ABN, so they aren't dealers. When you buy from a dealership, you expect a non-dodgy car. Hence why people pay the premium to reduce/eliminate risk. If you're a dealership and are doing the right thing, threads like these won't affect you. This thread isn't a blanket attack on all dealerships, it's showing examples of buyer beware. If you (dealership) can provide supporting documents etc then you won't have any issues . My point of view anyway. I've been wanting to buy a V36 sedan for a while now. I rather drive the car first and check it out in person before handing over cash, which is where dealerships come in handy. Massive wind-backs are a big concern because 88,000km car sold as 40,000km will be driving way past the major service point. Etc etc.

You can get a complete running RB30E for less than $500, why would you bother swapping heads? I constantly see RB30E heads on sale for $50-100. I gave mine away for free! Sorry I haven't answered your question. But I've seen this question come up a couple of times. Best to keep searching.

I too would like to see any evidence of Ryco oil filter ruining an engine. Or at least have any sort of signs it wasn't good for the engine.

BCPR6ES-8 (0.8mm gap)

They will most likely fit, but don't expect them to last long. There's a reason they're that cheap.

Either look for second hand set or double your budget. http://www.performance-wise.com/userimages/procart28.htm

So one lane motorway to start with?

If it's only doing the while in one gear (e..g 5th) then you can point at the gearbox. If it's whining in whatever gear at that speed (e.g. drop it to 4th and 3rd) then it's most likely diff. Does it whine under load or all the time (e.g. lifting off going downhill)?

Budget about $5k for a second hand engine + installation. Do a comp test, look for as many faults as you can, and be prepared to drop $$$ into it.

Sounds like AFM problem. Double-check the wiring/plug.

Get the 1.5 way

Hey man, I made the mistake of assuming the pitch was 1.25mm and wasted a couple hundred millilitres of brake fluid (swapping a caliper again).

Diff?

That's when that new Aus-spec radiator comes in handy.

You can't use the Sumitomo bolts because they are M12x1.25mm whereas the Brembo uses 1.5mm pitch. Yes the helicoils can be easily removed.

Standard R32 GT-R rear wing has just the right amount of flap.

Cleaned the IAC/AAC?

Dash aye The coins in my ash tray sometimes make noise if they align themselves into the right formation. I also had stuff in the glove box fighting and carrying on.

You don't have to drill anything. Get M12x1.5mm helicoils and put them on, much easier and less messier. You can either use R33 GT-R bolts or get your own high tensile ones (M12x1.5mm, 45mm long I believe, I put 40 and 50mm on mine, both fine). As mentioned, the rotors are all the same for R32-R34 Brembo except rear R34 V-Spec (not relevant to you).

The ball screw things which goes on the guards are too tall.

RHDJapan Jesse Streeter

2L turbo rear wheel drive. I don't know why Hyundai isn't pushing this here.