niZmO_Man

Problem is, most people go from flogged out dampers to 8/6 "drift" suspension and go "wow awesome handling". In saying that, it depends on what the person wants from the parts.

Epic

Go to another tyre shop

I have front pipe, but it's far from new. Will measure the diameters on the weekend. Cheap cheap!

I got one mate, PM me.

Pull the cluster out and remove the bulb. But it's a good idea to get the ABS working.

Dump the oil.

Standard engine? Nowhere.

LOL BNR34 VIN for an R33 GTS-t. Easy enough mistake to make though, but if you're handling Skylines, you should know an R33 won't have a VIN with "R34" in it.

Location?

Related to Bushells Ridge?

They're probably okay for circuit use, but too stiff for street. Crap dampers never helps. Try running the dampers on softer settings.

Get a smaller turbo, something equivalent to a GT28RS or even a high flowed stock RB20 turbo. Tune helps as well.

Yeah, ADR requires self levelling and washers to be fitted. You would want an adapter that converts D2R/S to H1/H7/whatever, something like this.

Torque figures gets skewed due to the gearing (diff, trans, etc). That's why auto cars that are roller/chassis dyno'ed have high torque figures. The most accurate way to measure the torque is the stick the engine on an engine dyno . Power figure is fine. But I like to worry about the area under the curve than the peak value. Like you said, the way it drives is the most important factor in any mod (unless you're going for dyno numbers only). You can see that jump around 80 km/h mark = good good . But it's pretty cool to say that you car puts down over a thousand Netwon meters of torque hahahahaha.

Yes your car came with HID headlights from factory. Unfortunately, they are not ADR compliant and you'll have to convert to halogen or change your headlights to halogen to pass. If you have factory HID, tough luck man, it sucks but that's the way Australia is. I would source a pair of halogen housings to pass it. If you have halogen headlights and put a fully sick 6000K-10000K cheap HID kit in, you deserve the defect.

Throw those uprights out and put something decent on your car.

Contact Iron Chef or look on J-spec's website.

No thermostat with those kits?

For cold running, have you tried pulling the yellow coolant temp plug off when it's hot? Does the idle increase? I would look at checking/cleaning the plug and replacing that sensor.

1,000Nm+ torque hahaha, you don't have a diesel engine mate. You shouldn't really take the torque figure seriously on chassis dyno.

I bought one, it's on ebay (from SA).

BCPR6ES (spark plugs) is what you want to run, about $4 each. Have you tried another AFM? Solder fix might fix the issue.

This is the picture I'm talking about. End of the day, get whatever makes you happy and whatever fits inside your guards.

Looking at it again on the computer, it does look like the outer sheared off. Once again, no proof that it's genuine or that it broke during driving. All wheels will eventually break. What is important is how much punishment they can take before failing catastrophically (quality of construction, materials, QA). The main point of this thread is a company that copied designs of other company is having a bitch about imitations being sold. The counter-point is that those fakes are labelled as Rota wheels. End consumer should decide whether cheaping out on a set of look a likes is better than giving money to the people (engineers, designers, back-end staff, sales people etc.) who designed/built the genuine ones.