niZmO_Man

Yeah give Racing 10 (10W-40) a go. I think they have a thicker oil in that product line. These are $75/bottle, but they should be more stable when running at 100deg. My car is street driven, but switching from HPR to SIN I found the temps stayed a little bit lower (barely detectable).

Depends on the area as mentioned. Idiots in your area = you'll be treated badly. I never had issues with the police, apart from one hero on a bike pulling me over for street racing doing 80 in 80 zone (Western Distributor). I caught him on his lies so he had no choice but to threaten me and let me go.

Tried their 10 Tenths range?

LOL dude that was a spammer.

I got mine from a bike accessories shop, ~$120. Has DOT and ADR stickers (important).

Pull the pads out and file/sand the face.

Have you timed it properly?

Depending on how well they build it, and from previous resurfacings/builds around Sydney, it'll probably smooth for 6 months

Yes Not sure, think it might have the same issue as an atmo-venting valve. Someone else can confirm this. You'll get flutter every time you spin the turbo up and close the throttle plate (i.e. rev and lift off) if enough air is pushed back through the compressor.

Not having a go at the K&N fans, but don't always believe the marketing and be sceptical. If the K&N has a better design and construction, better filter element, etc. then that's all great. If they add a magnet and a nut then charge extra $30 for essentially the same thing (or even inferior), is it really worth it? Not sure if you lot can see this, but on the R31 Skyline club, someone did a comparison of the Ryco and Nissan oil filter. Would be interesting to see the internals of the K&N and other filters. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=103539.msg975257#msg975257 *edit* ahh replies, cheers fellas.

What makes the K&N better than the Ryco besides the nut at the end of the casing? That's what we're after (well I'm after), justification on why Ryco or Nissan filter should be skipped a more expensive filter be purchased. Are we going off the belief that the more expensive one is better?

Dodgy private sellers don't have an ABN, so they aren't dealers. When you buy from a dealership, you expect a non-dodgy car. Hence why people pay the premium to reduce/eliminate risk. If you're a dealership and are doing the right thing, threads like these won't affect you. This thread isn't a blanket attack on all dealerships, it's showing examples of buyer beware. If you (dealership) can provide supporting documents etc then you won't have any issues . My point of view anyway. I've been wanting to buy a V36 sedan for a while now. I rather drive the car first and check it out in person before handing over cash, which is where dealerships come in handy. Massive wind-backs are a big concern because 88,000km car sold as 40,000km will be driving way past the major service point. Etc etc.

You can get a complete running RB30E for less than $500, why would you bother swapping heads? I constantly see RB30E heads on sale for $50-100. I gave mine away for free! Sorry I haven't answered your question. But I've seen this question come up a couple of times. Best to keep searching.

I too would like to see any evidence of Ryco oil filter ruining an engine. Or at least have any sort of signs it wasn't good for the engine.

BCPR6ES-8 (0.8mm gap)

They will most likely fit, but don't expect them to last long. There's a reason they're that cheap.

Either look for second hand set or double your budget. http://www.performance-wise.com/userimages/procart28.htm

So one lane motorway to start with?

If it's only doing the while in one gear (e..g 5th) then you can point at the gearbox. If it's whining in whatever gear at that speed (e.g. drop it to 4th and 3rd) then it's most likely diff. Does it whine under load or all the time (e.g. lifting off going downhill)?

Budget about $5k for a second hand engine + installation. Do a comp test, look for as many faults as you can, and be prepared to drop $$$ into it.

Sounds like AFM problem. Double-check the wiring/plug.

Get the 1.5 way

Hey man, I made the mistake of assuming the pitch was 1.25mm and wasted a couple hundred millilitres of brake fluid (swapping a caliper again).

Diff?

That's when that new Aus-spec radiator comes in handy.