niZmO_Man

Have you tried another AFM? How about solder-fixing your current one?

Sounds a bit like AFM starting to crap out. The spark plug gap should be 1-1.1mm if you're running new/newish coil packs (for better spark/burn).

I put 265/35/18 tyres on my old R34 GT-R wheels. They were on my R32 GT-R and didn't rub, but I have -2deg/-1.5deg f/r camber. Why not get cheap tyres until your wheels arrive? Or you can look at stores like tempetyres, which do good tyres for cheap.

Do the non-turbo R34s have M14 bolts for the calipers like the turbo versions? I don't think brake lines will be an issue. Using standard brake lines, I put R34 brembos on my R32 GT-R and R33 GTS-t front brakes on my R31 lol.

Plastidip

Problem is, most people go from flogged out dampers to 8/6 "drift" suspension and go "wow awesome handling". In saying that, it depends on what the person wants from the parts.

Epic

Go to another tyre shop

I have front pipe, but it's far from new. Will measure the diameters on the weekend. Cheap cheap!

I got one mate, PM me.

Pull the cluster out and remove the bulb. But it's a good idea to get the ABS working.

Dump the oil.

Standard engine? Nowhere.

LOL BNR34 VIN for an R33 GTS-t. Easy enough mistake to make though, but if you're handling Skylines, you should know an R33 won't have a VIN with "R34" in it.

Location?

Related to Bushells Ridge?

They're probably okay for circuit use, but too stiff for street. Crap dampers never helps. Try running the dampers on softer settings.

Get a smaller turbo, something equivalent to a GT28RS or even a high flowed stock RB20 turbo. Tune helps as well.

Yeah, ADR requires self levelling and washers to be fitted. You would want an adapter that converts D2R/S to H1/H7/whatever, something like this.

Torque figures gets skewed due to the gearing (diff, trans, etc). That's why auto cars that are roller/chassis dyno'ed have high torque figures. The most accurate way to measure the torque is the stick the engine on an engine dyno . Power figure is fine. But I like to worry about the area under the curve than the peak value. Like you said, the way it drives is the most important factor in any mod (unless you're going for dyno numbers only). You can see that jump around 80 km/h mark = good good . But it's pretty cool to say that you car puts down over a thousand Netwon meters of torque hahahahaha.

Yes your car came with HID headlights from factory. Unfortunately, they are not ADR compliant and you'll have to convert to halogen or change your headlights to halogen to pass. If you have factory HID, tough luck man, it sucks but that's the way Australia is. I would source a pair of halogen housings to pass it. If you have halogen headlights and put a fully sick 6000K-10000K cheap HID kit in, you deserve the defect.

Throw those uprights out and put something decent on your car.

Contact Iron Chef or look on J-spec's website.

No thermostat with those kits?

For cold running, have you tried pulling the yellow coolant temp plug off when it's hot? Does the idle increase? I would look at checking/cleaning the plug and replacing that sensor.